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It is a Ragin' Cajun'. Henriksen replaced the original Beta with this one after I complained about the amp distorting. That speaker is, IMO, a bit duller sounding than the original in this amp but as I mentioned previously, it came alive when I goosed the input with some form of added gain.
Originally Posted by Franz 1997
Looks like that amp has an Eminence Ragin' Cajun guitar speaker in there ( the cones are that unusual light colour). If so, it will be louder than the stock jazzamp speaker, a beta 10 PA speaker. Not a bad modification
Tom
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07-13-2022 08:30 AM
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So I'm still not certain I got the buy of they year- it could be a first generation or 2nd.
How am I going to brag to my friends?
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Its the 2nd generation and you got the buy of the year. Brag to you friends, and if they question it, just tell them some guy on the internet told you… Originally Posted by sgcim
=)
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In ca. 2007 Henriksen was advertising both non-reverb and reverb versions.
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I just bought a 2008 jazz amp 12 for way more and it hit was a decent deal — $250 seems like a phenomenal deal. I’m interested to see its performance vs my much more plebeian Vox pathfinder 15r, bought new for $119 about 11 years ago…
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I bought a Henriksen Blue 6 as blue is my favorite color.
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no doubt the henriksen is awesome!! Originally Posted by paul s.
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I've been putting my Henriksen JazzAmp on the floor, and it hasn't been cutting through when I have solos in the two big bands I play and arrange for. Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
Tonight, we were playing at a country club. and I put it on a table. It cut through the band great on all my solos.
Now I can brag to all my friends, but I'll still bring your name up if they question me! Now if I can just figure out the graphic equalizer tone controls.
Whatever happened to mid, treble and bass?
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Interesting... Originally Posted by Ukena
I have the first generation of Bud with the heat sink, essentially the Bud 6 but there was no other Bud number at the time...
Later I bought a Bud 10, actually felt a little lighter than my original 6, no heat sink, but I didn't dig the response nearly as much. I ended up selling it.
I still absolutely love my original Bud (6)
After trying and not digging a couple Quilters, I'm beginning to think maybe class D is not for me, at least just yet? This could really help me narrow some things down here...I had no idea that was the difference between the older and newer runs of those. Maybe if I need to move more air I'll just get a 10" or 12" extension cab
I don't miss Bluetooth. I would never use it on a guitar amp.Last edited by KRosser; 05-27-2023 at 11:26 PM. Reason: I thought of new stuff!
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What happened? Is this TGP? Originally Posted by KRosser
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OK, what did I do wrong? Originally Posted by sgcim
What happened? Is this TGP?
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This IS TGP for jazz guitarists, didn't you know? Originally Posted by sgcim
What happened? Is this TGP?
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I'm really pretty naive about the workings under the hood of most of the gear, which is why this caught my attention...I promise, I didn't mean to invade the gear section! Originally Posted by Stringswinger
This IS TGP for jazz guitarists, didn't you know?
Now, where do I go to argue about scales?
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I was just referring to the fact that the poster, Ken, is a world class guitarist and teacher, who usually hangs out at TGP. Originally Posted by Stringswinger
This IS TGP for jazz guitarists, didn't you know?
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Music to my ears. I’ve been suspicious of class D amps ever since they came in. Although they are incredibly good value for money.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I don't get it : in what way does the power amp of a solid state amp color the sound ? It's there to make it loud and if it can also be made small and lightweight what's wrong with a class D design ? I still love my old BUD 6 and while I wouldn't mind having the newer, still lighter version it's my go-to amp for almost all my jobs these days. If I need more oomph I add a 6" Raezer's Edge cab and have all the power, bass and spread I need.
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Four of my five amps are class D (Three Henriksens and a Quilter). In addition, I have owned five Acoustic Image amps in the past that were Class D and my thought is that they have a very warm tone (which I like). I had a non-class D Henriksen that was noticeably brighter. Perhaps the earlier Henriksen had a different pre-amp and that is why it was brighter? Originally Posted by gitman
At 65 years of age, I am also very much into light weight. Class D amps came about just in time for me!
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The speaker and the preamp color the sound. A proper power amp just makes it loud enough to hear. Class D power amps do the job better than other types, and do it while being lighter, cheaper, and using less power. Do not judge Class D amps by what you hear from Quilters, which are, AFAICT, primarily designed for use by rock players. I've never heard a Quilter that I liked, although I certainly haven't heard all of them. I've owned two, one of which I returned almost immediately and sold the other. That's just a personal preference, and others like them. I just don't care for the preamp voicing. I haven't owned a Henriksen, so I can't comment on them. The DV Mark class D amps I've had/have sound very good to me. It's all in the preamp and the speaker, and mostly in the preamp.
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To go back to early Henriksens one more time, a lot of posters have called them underpowered. I think there was a mismatch between the preamp and power amp, rather than an overall lack of output. My Convertible head with reverb was supposed to be good for bass. Basses come with a variety of passive and active PU's. The volume was quite modest with the basic Squier JB I'm still using. A volume boost pedal between the bass and the amp made a huge difference. I recall contacting Peter H about tweaking the input impedance a little. The response was something to the effect that he had no clue about impedances. Nor did I, for that matter. Well, this was like 15 years ago. While I haven't gotten much wiser on electronics I'm sure Peter H has.
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There's nothing "wrong" with Class D, I just noticed after returning three amps because the response was really bothering me, that they had this in common. Some people like this, that's great. It's just not for me. Originally Posted by gitman
I still love my old Bud 6, which is Class AB. I'm going to start hunting around for extension cabs.
Does anyone here have strong feelings about the Henriksen extension cabs, The Ray, 10", or 12"? I know Raezer's Edge is highly regarded but I've never tried one
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I have a problem with a Henriksen JazzAmp 112ER I acquired about a year ago. It was in good condition and hardly ever used. I haven't owned a solid state amp for many years but I knew the previous owner who had passed away; I wanted to buy it as a keepsake.
I had used it a few times on jazz gigs and I was very pleased with it, Now however, it cuts out after about a minute. If I turn it off and on, there is a crackling sound for about 10-15 seconds. If I leave it off for a minute or so, it works for about a minute before cutting out again. I've checked the power leads and guitar leads and they are all ok.
I'm not technically minded and I don't know of an amp technician locally who could look at it so I was wondering does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing this and more importantly, if it can be fixed?
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Crackling noises are often due to tiny cracks in solder joints. That doesn't fit perfectly with the cutting in and out, but my recommendation is free and easy. Originally Posted by Irishmuso
Wiggle everything that can be wiggled. All the cables, jacks and pots. Don't forget the leads to the reverb tank, if you have one.
Press the faceplate near the jacks and pots. Problems are particularly likely if the jacks and pots are soldered right into the board. A better design is short wires making those connections, because the wires can absorb mechanical stresses, like plugging into the amp.
If you hear anything concerning try to isolate it, but if you can't isolate it don't worry.
You can then open the amp and expose all the solder connections to the jacks and pots and reheat every one of them. Nice slender tip on the iron and be sure it's hot enough to make the solder flow. Then quick, precise touches
My only other idea is to contact Henriksen and see if it rings a bell to him.
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Here is a more or less carefully recorded sample of my 1st or 2nd gen 10” JazzAmp (serial # begins with 2006, and it looks identical to the pics posted by Alter). It has no fan or heat sink, but it does have reverb, which is set around 9 o’clock. Guitar center was selling it used for $399 last year, and I couldn’t pass that up. Although I love my Polytone Brute, the Henriksen has a slightly darker tone, and less noise for recording. EQ settings are (left to right): 2:00, 11:00, 12:00, 3:00, 3:00. This keeps it from being too muddy, or too nasally, if that makes sense. In my home, I prefer to put it on a wedge, and it's usually on a chair when I record it.
I will have these more careful recordings for all 4 of my amps soon, same mic, same setup, and I’ll be sharing a series of videos once I get a decent recording of my dv mark little jazz for comparison. Most are already on my facebook and youtube
Last edited by Johnpiazza; 04-04-2025 at 11:23 AM.
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Update on the 2006 JazzAmp: I’m still really enjoying it, actually preferring it to my Polytone for solo playing. The power switch makes a loud pop when I turn it off (an issue which has been discussed at length elsewhere on this site). I reached out to Henriksen, and they’re willing to fix the issue, as well as a general maintenance check, for $ 160, shipping both ways included. I think this is a great deal, and will keep these great older amps working for years to come. So if you do find a JazzAmp 10” or 12” used for a good price, know that you can send it in for a checkup without breaking the bank
Service - Henriksen Amplifiers
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This has always been my experience with Henriksen - absolutely top notch customer service, including maintenance/repairs Originally Posted by Johnpiazza
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