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I bought a fret crowning file and rounded the frets of a classical guitar.
Then I polished the frets of the guitar.
Fret works significantly improves the intonations of the instrument.
The guitar finally started to tune perfectly.
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01-12-2023 02:25 PM
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Is that all you did, or did you take off a lot?
I don't see how a fret dress and level can improve intonation (unless the frets were all way too high) but it's possible that you can now play buzz free without having to press down hard on the strings (and thus play sharp).
Either way: good for you!
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The intonation point hypothetically should be in the center already. But if it's not, the crowning file will fix it. You definitely have to crown when you do a level, otherwise the intonation point will be off.
If you want to do some more luthiery, get a 1/4 round file and round the ends of the frets.
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The first part of this video explains it:
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This is exelent video...:-)
Originally Posted by oldHaus
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Intonation can be changed by changing where the high point of the fret is located. If the fret slot is a little off where it should be, the fret can be recrowned to move the effective location. Flat frets especially result in poor intonation. Ken Parker explains this well, but he's certainly not the first to discover it. Even if the slots were cut by expensive, perfectly calibrated gang saws, perfect fret crowning is required for perfect intonation. As frets wear, they are no longer perfectly crowned under the strings, so intonation may suffer.
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Fortunately, the frets on a classical guitar don't wear out as quickly as on a guitar with metal strings.
Originally Posted by sgosnell
Perfect fret crowning may work longer...I hope
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This may be completely wrong, but I'd expect nylon strings to be a little more forgiving in this aspect, as in absorb small errors in crowning.
How big can the intonation error get anyway, esp. on the lower frets where wear will be the fastest?
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I have a Tatay classical (made in Spain, it's been dated to the 1930s) that has flat (and I might add, low) frets. I thought for sure I was going to have fret issues. But to my surprise, it intonates pretty well for a 90-year-old guitar!
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It all depends on the guitar you play.My guitar had intonation problems in the high positions before the 12th fret.
Originally Posted by RJVB
Some of the frets were flat - they were filed down because the strings were buzzing.
I did the correction of all frets of the guitar and the tuning improved a lot.
I also did the polishing of the guitar's frets myself. The guitar tunes perfectly.
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This also depends on your standards
Originally Posted by kris
Some people seem to think that an error of 5ct is nothing ... I've noticed that it takes a tad over 1mm compensation at the nut to fix an error of -5ct (flat) of the open string (corresponding to a +5ct error at the 5th fret) , at a scale length of 640mm. That is, I used a bamboo rod of a bit over 2mm diam, shoved under the strings and against the nut. I can't remember the width of the frets on that guitar but if I were to guess I'd say it's less than 2mm. Meaning you might not have a +- 5ct adjustment margin through fret crowning.
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Imo, you're better off using a half round file because it's less work and it guarantees precise results with the point of contact in the center. There's no benefit to hand shaping the fret and guessing how to shape it.
Originally Posted by oldHaus
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I suppose you do mean one that has a concave slot that you're supposed to drag just back and forth along the fret? I've been looking at a number of them but between the lack of certainty of getting the appropriate width and radius, and the so-so feedback most get I've more or less concluded they are not exactly professional tools...
Originally Posted by Jimmy Smith
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It all depends on who use these tools and what experience they have.
Originally Posted by RJVB
Professional luthiers who build and service guitars are learning guitars all the time, gaining a lot of experience.
I wonder how many fret works did the luthier who services guitars....?
This is a very precise and laborious job - fret works.
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Well professionals use them, so they are professional tools. I think it's always better to use a more precise tool when you can. To address the issue of keeping the radius the same, you simply color the top of the fret with a marker and only grind with the file until there is a thin line left in the center. That by definition means you haven't sanded the very top of the fret and it's now in the very center. The files have 2 sizes, medium and jumbo, and from there you can stick sandpaper in the file to make it fit the fret better. It works pretty well. Less work and more precision so I think they're effective.
Originally Posted by RJVB
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Originally Posted by kris
Well, you know how they say that (some) professional players can make beautiful music even on a toy instrument ... which doesn't really make the toy a professional instrument in my worldview
Originally Posted by Jimmy Smith

I don't doubt these files exist in better and in not-so-good versions, the latter are just easier to find apparently. The crucial feedback for me came from people who clearly seemed to have a bit more experience with the matter at hand - but I don't think I've yet found this kind of file on sites dedicated to selling luthier's equipment.
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Dual-grit Diamond Fret File - StewMac
Originally Posted by RJVB
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Thx - I usually don't look at them because they're typically overpriced (for tools also sold by others) and there's the added cost of shipping and importation costs.
Originally Posted by ruger9
But for $114 I'd hope this is a pro-quality tool
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Thanks, but ouch (139€)...
Originally Posted by kris
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It isn't more 'professional' to purposely use less precise tools and do worse work lol.
Originally Posted by RJVB



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