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I have decided it's the biggest pain in the ass second only to trying to iron contoured bed sheets.
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05-05-2023 10:15 AM
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Ooooh, I actually love doing it! But I'm also very, very, weird.
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Over, under, over under. Reverse, over under. Tune to pitch, play for 6 months while strings stretch, trim. What could be easier
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Originally Posted by Woody Sound
Do the bridge first, then the pegs.
Pegs:
Put bass and treble on alternately. Keeps the tension equal: low E - high E - A - B - D - G.
Use a half hitch.
Keep tight hold of the end and start turning. Turn bass pegs towards the top of the guitar and the treble pegs towards the bottom.
(The point is that the string is trapped on itself. So the more you turn, the more secure it gets)
Once you've got it it's easy. Ignore all confusing internet instructions :-)
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Originally Posted by ragman1
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I like the 12 hole method of tying the bridge. It’s easy and it also provides more string tension by increasing the break angle.
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Originally Posted by AaronMColeman
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Amazon.com
I used the darker version of these on the last classical guitar that I had. They worked really well. Probably should have taken them off before I sold the guitar but the buyer dug them, too.
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I usually spend a lot of $ on Savarez Extra High tension, but the D and G are not long enough to wrap enough, and the nylon G is way too stiff to twist into shape at the bridge and the peg. For a shorter scale guitr, maybe, but on a full scale, is shouldn't be that hard. FWIW, i've been doing this for probably 45+ yrs.
Last edited by Woody Sound; 05-06-2023 at 04:45 AM.
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Originally Posted by Woody Soundthe nylon G is way too stiff to twist into shape at the bridge and the peg
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I use Alba string beads or else make knots in the bridge end of the strings. Increases the break angle over the saddle. In the pegs, I just pass the free back up to the front and then under the business end of the string, from the outside for the E strings, from the inside for the others so when I pull the free end tight I can guide the string winding in the direction I want in order to minimise the exit angle at the nut. (I pass it twice under the string for the high E).
More or less like this:
I really dislike the back/downwards facing pegs though; makes it much harder to use a (manual) string winder which you need much more than on a steel string...
EDIT: I never remove all strings at once, normally, not anymore than you'd do on a floating bridge guitar. I was surprised my teacher (who only playse CG) does the same, to keep the tension on the neck as constant as possible.
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Originally Posted by Mark M.
I literally watch this video every single time I change the strings on either guitar. It’s just part of the zen of string changing now for me.
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Originally Posted by bmw2002
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I watched a video recently on tying on classical strings, and it really messed me up. For 40 years I have just crossed the strings across the bridge--a half hitch like Ragman suggests--and let tension hold them. Crossover once for larger bass strings, twice for thinner strings.
I also cross the strings at the tuner and let tension hold them. I haven't completely tied them and have never had them loosen once.
I did have a bridge pop off due to low humidity, but that had nothing to do with how the strings were strung.
Which Pickup in Borys
Today, 04:24 PM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos