Here we go again..

[Eck]

Over in Holland we successfully treated borers with petrol(gasoline). A lot and a total success. It’s quite easy to see that the gas penetrates if put it on one side and see the other get wer


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I mean you see the other side get wet.
Anyway hats off to your work. Is it going to be about 5/16

Edit: please ignore this. I just saw the image with the Benedetto book

[Eck]

Would lighter fluid (naphta) work too? Should be cheaper I think (not going to pay the government any more taxes than I need to )

Don’t know. You probably need 1/4 liter for a guitar. Tomato, tomato, 1/15 us gallon.


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[JohanAbrandt]

Beech, or birch? I know the latter can be really nice as a tonewood, never heard about the former being used in that context - and I often confound the two myself...



I mentioned xylphene; we treat just about any kind of wood object (not instruments) of unsure provenance with that. You apply it lavishly with a brush and then let the object in a well-ventilated place for a certain time. Apply a 2nd time for thicker objects. Sealing in plastic would make it more effective I suppose. I don't know exactly how wood occupants are killed by it, but it seems to work. It darkens the wood a little bit but doesn't penetrate very deep (not more than standard wood stain I'd say).
I see that's apparently a brand name for the French market - https://www.xylophene.fr/ - Xylophene | Lacrilar . I have to assume it is available elsewhere too, under different names.
I know there are also products you apply directly into the holes you find, via syringes. In fact, I'm pretty certain that even nitrocellulose laquer diluted with the appropriate thinner will be lethal for any insect larva living off your wood, but with this kind of DIY solution you'll probably want to make sure you've flooded the entire gallery system.

The body was beech, with a cherry top, and the neck was birch laminated with cherry.

[sbeishline]

After a long hiatus to finish up a 3 year bathroom renovation, I am resuming work on archtop guitar #2.

Traced and ready to drill some depth holes for the inside of the top plate:


As you can see, cosmesis won't be forefront on guitar #2 as the alignment is listed because of the width limitation. Not sure how much this is going to affect the ultimate playability or sound, but I'll have some fun learning in the process of getting it built.

[sbeishline]

Welp.. hit a snag on Monday while drilling the holes in the inside of the top plate.

I guess I never showed any photo in my first build thread, but I used a depth stop set to 1/4" to drill holes in the inside of the top plate. I was holding the plate with my left hand and controlling the drill press handle with my right hand. When drilling the hole it was a bit tight/sticky in lifting the bit out of the wood. When I went to raise the drill press handle to remove the bit from the wood, I guess I lifted my left hand with the guitar and the plate came up off the depth stop and sadly realized I felt a bit on the outside of the plate:


Dreary view:


I went to the shelf to look at the last few boards of spruce tree. Luckily I was able to find one side of the pith that measured 8" wide, and was able to cut two 18" long quarter sawn pieces.

I then quickly jointed each face and an edge to be able to joint the plates together. I then planed them to just under 1" thick and glued them up. I left them for 24hr and removed them from the clamps.


The good news now is that I'll be able to re-trace and cut out the top plate, and it'll be wide enough to get the entire lower bout width and keep the jointed seam as the centerline. As you can see from the photos above, the alignment would've been really annoying and overall probably would've been a very poorly aligned guitar.


Learning lesson here.. hold that plate down on the depth stop and don't let it get pulled up!

Got one last chance to use the "family tree" - hopefully I won't booger it up.