The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #26

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    I also have had problems pre-clipping TIs for Fender vintage-style tuners. Is there anything wrong with just wrapping the strings around the vintage-style post like normal tuners instead of clipping and inserting into the hole?

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  3. #27

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    Leave the T-I silk-ends uncut. Should you require the strings to be loosened or removed temporarily, cutting the silk-ends will cause the T-I string windings to uncoil hence damaging them. Say, you wish to touch up the intonation at the floating bridge. Switch from a wooden saddle to a TOM. Clean the fretboard, etc..

    Coil the excess in a nice neat little coil. With any round-core string, leave the ends uncut. DR Blues have the same issue of going dead or uncoiling when the ends are cut. And the strings take a bad rap.

    Once you cut them, you cannot remove them or loosen the string tension too much or they will uncoil. Best to just leave the silk-ends intact.

  4. #28

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    That's how I string my archtops too but that method won't work on a tele with vintage tuners.

    Besides aesthetics, what's the point of the silk wrapping anyway?

    Quote Originally Posted by Greentone
    Warning: TI strings _will_ unravel if you cut them prior to tuning to tension. TI advises you of this. It's funky to restring with TI after a lifetime of cutting, winding, and tuning to pitch.

    Again, I have taken my chances on my Fenders--with luck, to date.

    On my archtops, however, I run the TI string (the wrapped strings, anyway--it doesn't matter what you do with the plain strings) through the hole in the string post, snug the string then back it off to simulate the slack associated with having cut the string at the next string post (about an inch or so of slack), then I begin winding after bending the string at the string post barrel. This is clumsy with the extra string length flopping around, but it works. When the string is tight I tune to pitch, pull to get all the stored tension at the nut, bridge, etc., out and tune again. THEN, I cut the extra string length off.

    This is a clunky procedure, but it results in great sounding TI strings every time. ALSO, never tune by dropping to pitch. If you overshoot and go sharp on a string, de-tune and pull out all of the stored tension on the nut, bridge, etc. Now, carefully tune UP to pitch. Only a guitar tuned up to pitch will play in tune. A guitar tuned down to pitch will play out of tune, I guarantee. I used to tune pianos. This is how it's done there.

    The reason I don't like automatic tuning gears on some Gibsons is that they will take a guitar that has gone sharp--heat in a case that was stored in a car on the way to a gig, for example--and drop the strings into concert pitch. At that point, there is considerable stored energy behind the nut and the bridge. You go to play and immediately the guitar goes flat. The gears will respond, but you WILL hear this. Boo!

  5. #29

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    I believe the silk wrap is used to hold the steel wrap in place until the strings are used and as a marketing device. I

  6. #30

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    I just restrung my Byrdland with T1 12's . which I use on all but two guitars
    and usually without a problem ,( using the time tested method suggested by GT)
    the 3rd ,G produced an undesirable metallic ping , particularly at the 2nd/3rd fret
    up to the 6th. Tried adjusting the bridge, Truss Rod ,even tried an Ebony saddle
    without success, In desperation I found a pack of D'Addarios . and rather than
    breaking into another Ti set I used the D'Addario spare G string , bingo , problem
    solved. Having used TI's for 20+ years without issue I am surprised ,but notice
    other members have had a similar experience. If it recurs I'll switch to D'A's for a
    while, annoying as i have just bought in bulk, 12 sets of Ti's.

  7. #31

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    For the sake of full disclosure, I have to preface this by saying that I have been at least technically an official TI artist for over 20 years. Both as a player and as a builder I've used just about everything out there and I had a long period of using D'Addario Chromes so I know them well. For the last few years I've been gone back to TI Swing Series on everything. All that being said ... I like TI's, not because of superior quality control (and that is what the OP is about), but rather because I think they sound better for the way I play. That's an entirely subjective opinion and the way I play is not the same as the way most people play so it may or may not be true for anyone else but TI Sing Series strings undoubtedly sound (and feel) different than other flat wounds. That's what I pay for (and even with artist discounting they're still expensive). Fortunately they last me a long time so the cost is not that big a hit for me. In my experience, their quality control is fairly typical of string makers but because of the price, their strings may tend to sit on retail racks longer than they should and that may contribute to occasional problems.

  8. #32

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    One other issue about TI Jazz Swings I need to bring up.
    I like my action really low.
    The TI B and Hi-E strings, (High-E especially), have a tendency to buzz after a couple of days. If you notice, they are tinted gold. I was told that they have bronze in them and the softer Bronze strings have a tendency to have a wider vibration field than regular stainless strings.
    As a result, I am always forced to increase the action on the treble side to compensate for this. I don't like high action. Lately, This is making me dislike the strings a little bit.

    Anyone else have this issue?

  9. #33

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    I've used Thomastik TI strings on my telecaster with vintage tuners. The vintage style tuner leaves you no choice but to to cut the string to length before you put them on. Fortunately, I've never had any issue with the silk end coming unwound- but I have seen the warning about not cutting the string before installing them.

  10. #34

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    My understanding is that the TI plain strings are simply coated, and under the coating are pretty much the same alloy as every other brand. A thin brass alloy won't have any effect on the string other than perhaps resist rusting, but the tin coating on other brands may be as resistant.

  11. #35

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    funny, I just put a hybrid set on my tele - all d'addario/ernie ball except for the TI .30 D string.
    Had to clip the string with 1cm of silk left due to vintage tuners - turns out string was deader/quieter than the surrounding strings.
    After reading this thread, changed it out with D'addario .28 D string (thinner) and its significantly louder.
    thinner core? wrapping loose?
    thx

  12. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by gggomez
    Had a similar experience with a dead string. Off them. Also gone to chromes and really like them - I go for a lively relatively bright sound and they take me to where I want to go but in OZ not that much cheaper.
    Hey gggomez, you might want to check out Strings By Mail. The shipping is reasonable to NZ (Strings and Beyond and others have absurd rates); as long as I'm ordering a few sets at a time it's worth it.

  13. #37

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    I just had a dead A string AND a G string that broke while stringing up - on a BB113 set.
    ...never had a dead A before that I can recall after many years