I thought Tomastik Infeld strings were supposed to be a premium, high quality string?

[jakeyboy1216]

For the second time now (the first instance occurred about 2 years ago) I've put on a new set of Tomastik Infeld strings only to find that one of the strings is dead. Just a dull thud.

All the other strings sound fine and the string is dead all the way up the neck so I don't think the problem is my guitar or the set up - i.e. action too low, no neck relief, problem with the nut, etc.

TI's are supposed to be a high quality, premium product with impeccable QA, yet these are the only strings I've ever used where I've had this problem. Never an issue with D'Addarrio's, Pyramid, Martins or any other less expensive brand.

I'll replace the string but it's disappointing when you think you're paying extra for a better product only to fine that the so called premium brand is not as good as the regular brands.

[blille]

For the second time now (the first instance occurred about 2 years ago) I've put on a new set of Tomastik Infeld strings only to find that one of the strings is dead. Just a dull thud.

All the other strings sound fine and the string is dead all the way up the neck so I don't think the problem is my guitar or the set up - i.e. action too low, no neck relief, problem with the nut, etc.

TI's are supposed to be a high quality, premium product with impeccable QA, yet these are the only strings I've ever used where I've had this problem. Never an issue with D'Addarrio's, Pyramid, Martins or any other less expensive brand.

I'll replace the string but it's disappointing when you think you're paying extra for a better product only to fine that the so called premium brand is not as good as the regular brands.

Sorry to hear that.

I've been a happy D'addario chromes user for a while. I just buy a set of 10s and replace the top 2 strings to match the TI gauges I got used to. It feels like when I had TIs the minimum defect bothered me because they were very expensive.

Didn't we just have a thread about TIs breaking?

[gggomez]

Had a similar experience with a dead string. Off them. Also gone to chromes and really like them - I go for a lively relatively bright sound and they take me to where I want to go but in OZ not that much cheaper.

[rob taft]

I've never had a problem with TI's (rounds or flats) and I go through a number of sets. That said, drop Thomastik or the string dealer an email they will probably send you a replacement.

[Greentone]

I've never had a problem with TI. You need to be careful how you string them up. If you cut the string _ before_ you string it to tension you can loosen the tape winding. This will cause the string to (at best) sound dead. At worst, the string will break.

The issue has to do with a tape winding around a round, rather than hex core string. It can be a PITA to put strings on the way that TI recommends--especially when you have been clipping strings 1.5"-2" longer than the needed string length, bending 0.5", wrapping through the string post and stringing to tension for many years. Yet, only TI's method guarantees a snug, good sounding string.

I still take my chances on a Fender string tree. With all others, however, I dutifully follow TI's instructions. I have never had a mishap, break, dull string. The TI strings sound, feel, and play just tops.

I was a happy Chromes player for probably 25 years before switching to TI.

[Woody Sound]

Funny timing. I've been using the Tom GB 12 rounds for some years now, love 'em, never a problem. Did a string change yesterday on a guitar, and got a DEAD wound G. Sounds like a soggy noodle.

[voxss]

Greentone....how do you restring your guitars...tomastik of course.....always enjoy your wise thoughts

[skiboyny]

I've had that problem in the past. Write the Thomastik rep. He will send you a new string to replace the dud. They really are a great string but as with all things problems do occur.

[rob taft]

I've had that problem in the past. Write the Thomastik rep. He will send you a new string to replace the dud. They really are a great string but as with all things problems do occur.

I'd like to second this post, I own quite a few guitars and over the years I have settled on 4 brands. For my electrics it is D'Addario. They are not sexy, flavor of the week etc. but they are consistent and have excellent QA control. For my archtops it is all TI for the same reason as the D'Addario plus one additional factor, TI strings to my hands are more even and appear to have lower tension than the comparable D'Addario set. For my classical guitars it is a mix of D'Addario bass strings and Saverez carbons and I have tried a bunch but I have learned that traditional classical/flamenco guitars are very string dependent i.e. one brand may sound great and identically sized but different brand may sound awful. For my acoustic flattops, I use John Pearse, again for the same reason as my D'Addario electrics.

That said, I have had some problems with all of them except for TI and that is not to say I won't in the future. I just haven't had them to date but anything that is mass manufactured will have the occasional dud. I have had good support from all of the companies I listed. For example, I pointed out an error in D'Addario's website and they promptly responded and sent me two packs of strings to boot. I have tried some great sounding strings over the years but many of the brands fail on consistency or quality issues. D.R for example. I liked their electric pure nickel strings but they were very inconsistent. Frankly while I love to play guitar I hate to change strings so consistency, tone and than cost are my goals.

[blille]

TI strings to my hands are more even and appear to have lower tension than the comparable D'Addario set.

You mean TI swing 12s vs chrome 12s for example?

I used to think the same (TIs have lower tension) but realized that TIs are just top heavy. Strings 3,4,5 are noticeably thinner than D'Addario's which makes it less tense.

[BigMikeinNJ]

I've never had a problem with TI. You need to be careful how you string them up. If you cut the string _ before_ you string it to tension you can loosen the tape winding. This will cause the string to (at best) sound dead. At worst, the string will break.

The issue has to do with a tape winding around a round, rather than hex core string. It can be a PITA to put strings on the way that TI recommends--especially when you have been clipping strings 1.5"-2" longer than the needed string length, bending 0.5", wrapping through the string post and stringing to tension for many years. Yet, only TI's method guarantees a snug, good sounding string.

I still take my chances on a Fender string tree. With all others, however, I dutifully follow TI's instructions. I have never had a mishap, break, dull string. The TI strings sound, feel, and play just tops.

I was a happy Chromes player for probably 25 years before switching to TI.

Exactly what Greentone says....

[Dennis D]

I had an issue and posted here and yes they do replace strings easily enough.

But as far as their supposed lower tension, it's only due to their thinner gauge strings. If you put a set of Chromes together using their single strings, and duplicate TI's gauges, there's very little difference - if any - in the tension of the 2 sets .

[Moonray]

Hey Dennis.....sorry but I can't agree with you re the relative tension of Chrome vs TI.

I've done that exercise with my favoured gauges and that's just not the case.

The Chromes are noticeably higher tension.
I believe it's to do with the round core of the TI's [= lower tension] compared to the regular hex core
of the Chromes.

That may or may not be the reason....but the fact remains.....Chromes =higher tension.

I would like it if that wasn't the case given the affordability of the DA's and the high cost of TI's.

But I do prefer the more "live" sound of Chromes....so I won't be switching any time soon.

[blille]

But as far as their supposed lower tension, it's only due to their thinner gauge strings. If you put a set of Chromes together using their single strings, and duplicate TI's gauges, there's very little difference - if any - in the tension of the 2 sets .

Hey Dennis.....sorry but I can't agree with you re the relative tension of Chrome vs TI.

I've done that exercise with my favoured gauges and that's just not the case. The Chromes are noticeably higher tension.

I believe it's to do with the round core of the TI's [= lower tension] compared to the regular hex core of the Chromes.

That may or may not be the reason....but the fact remains.....Chromes =higher tension.

Fortunately both manufacturers provide information on the tension of the sets. I'll just use TI JS 112 since it's the set I used to use before switching to D'Addario. The tension is next to the string in lbs.

TI set:
P12 22.8
P16 22.7
JS20 24.6
JS27 24.1
JS37 22.8
JS50 23.3

D'Addario (using single strings to match the gauges; they don't have 27 or 37 but have 26, 28, 38 - I went with the higher ones which explains the slightly higher tension in those strings)
PL012 23.4
PL016 23.3
CG020 23.8
CG028 25.2
CG038 23.7
CG050 22.18

So it looks like TI's plain strings have a bit less tension and the wound ones a bit more. The 4th and 5th string comparison is not perfect but it's obviously in the same ballpark.

Here is TI's catalog with the tensions: Jazz Guitar
And here is D'Addario's: D'Addario Strings : XL Chromes Flat Wound : ECG23 Chromes Flat Wound,Extra Light, 10-48

They are both great sets of strings. It sometimes comes down to feel, your particular guitar, fingers etc.

[Max405]

You can buy a set of Daddario chrome 11's and just swap out the b and e strings with a 16 and a 12. You will have a brighter flat wound set. All be it, less polished and the DAddarios are a little rougher on your frets. In America you will save a few dollars too. Not bad..

[Dennis D]

Fortunately both manufacturers provide information on the tension of the sets. I'll just use TI JS 112 since it's the set I used to use before switching to D'Addario. The tension is next to the string in lbs.

TI set:
P12 22.8
P16 22.7
JS20 24.6
JS27 24.1
JS37 22.8
JS50 23.3

D'Addario (using single strings to match the gauges; they don't have 27 or 37 but have 26, 28, 38 - I went with the higher ones which explains the slightly higher tension in those strings)
PL012 23.4
PL016 23.3
CG020 23.8
CG028 25.2
CG038 23.7
CG050 22.18

So it looks like TI's plain strings have a bit less tension and the wound ones a bit more. The 4th and 5th string comparison is not perfect but it's obviously in the same ballpark.

Here is TI's catalog with the tensions: Jazz Guitar
And here is D'Addario's: D'Addario Strings : XL Chromes Flat Wound : ECG23 Chromes Flat Wound,Extra Light, 10-48

They are both great sets of strings. It sometimes comes down to feel, your particular guitar, fingers etc.

Thanks blille, that was my point....

If you match gauges & then compare tensions, TI vs Chromes, they're almost even.....

I was originally using the tension chart at the 'string guy' site, which shows a lower Chrome tension than actual....155 vs actual of 161.....

Thanks again.

[entresz]

TI jazz/swing string are my favourite set, but I was restringing my Gretsch the other night and the "G" unraveled itself at the tuner. I have been using these strings for years now, this is the first time I've ever had a problem. So now I have 5 TI strings and one D'Addario chrome on the guitar. Nobody here sells individual TI strings, will have to buy another set.

[Woody Sound]

Funny timing. I've been using the Tom GB 12 rounds for some years now, love 'em, never a problem. Did a string change yesterday on a guitar, and got a DEAD wound G. Sounds like a soggy noodle.

So now I can see that there's a 1/4" gap/space in the winding about an inch behind the bridge, and you can slide that whole section back and forth between the tailpiece and the gap.

[va3ux]

What are T.I.s instructions for installing their strings ?

[Jabberwocky]

I feel with T-Is you don't cut off the silk-wrapped ends.

This means you get excess lengths which you form as tidy little coils and leave them dangling above the headstock.

I guess that is recommended with all round cored strings. Hex cored strings don't have the problem of unravelling because the sharp edges bite into the wraps.

[Jabberwocky]

...Nobody here sells individual TI strings, will have to buy another set.

You could try Schneider Musik, Germany. They bill you actual postage, not a flat one, unlike Thomann.

Saiten und Zubehor fur alle Instrumente - SchneiderMusik.de Online Shop

[jads57]

I've been pleased w/ the Gearge Benson 12 Roundwoundwound set. I will say it's not like a huge difference to my ears at first. But they definitely last much longer so no need to change them quite as often on my Elferink archtop.
For electrics I actually prefer Ernie Ball 11-48 the best, D'Addarios 2nd. Flat Top: John Pearce 13-56 for my Martin OM21 Special. Absolute best I've ever tried!

[jakeyboy1216]

Thanks Greentone. I did, in fact, cut the string before tuning it up. I was putting the strings on my Telecaster and it has the vintage style tuners whereby the string gets fed into the center of the tuner before getting wrapped around the tuning peg. The string has to to be cut to length first.

I didn't know that was a problem with TI's. Now that I know, I guess I'll stay away from TI's for my tele. It's a shame though - I really like the even tension and tone you get with TI's.

One question - weren't all guitar strings in the early days (50's and 60's) round core? Wasn't until more modern high efficiency manufacturing techniques that the companies started using hex core? So, was this a common problem with tele's in the 50's and 60's? This is the first time I've ever heard of this problem.

I've never had a problem with TI. You need to be careful how you string them up. If you cut the string _ before_ you string it to tension you can loosen the tape winding. This will cause the string to (at best) sound dead. At worst, the string will break.

The issue has to do with a tape winding around a round, rather than hex core string. It can be a PITA to put strings on the way that TI recommends--especially when you have been clipping strings 1.5"-2" longer than the needed string length, bending 0.5", wrapping through the string post and stringing to tension for many years. Yet, only TI's method guarantees a snug, good sounding string.

I still take my chances on a Fender string tree. With all others, however, I dutifully follow TI's instructions. I have never had a mishap, break, dull string. The TI strings sound, feel, and play just tops.

I was a happy Chromes player for probably 25 years before switching to TI.

[voxss]

where are TI instructions to be found..i just got a Tele Squier and have some Thomastik roundwounds...11s to be put on...cant afford to mess this up.

[Greentone]

Warning: TI strings _will_ unravel if you cut them prior to tuning to tension. TI advises you of this. It's funky to restring with TI after a lifetime of cutting, winding, and tuning to pitch.

Again, I have taken my chances on my Fenders--with luck, to date.

On my archtops, however, I run the TI string (the wrapped strings, anyway--it doesn't matter what you do with the plain strings) through the hole in the string post, snug the string then back it off to simulate the slack associated with having cut the string at the next string post (about an inch or so of slack), then I begin winding after bending the string at the string post barrel. This is clumsy with the extra string length flopping around, but it works. When the string is tight I tune to pitch, pull to get all the stored tension at the nut, bridge, etc., out and tune again. THEN, I cut the extra string length off.

This is a clunky procedure, but it results in great sounding TI strings every time. ALSO, never tune by dropping to pitch. If you overshoot and go sharp on a string, de-tune and pull out all of the stored tension on the nut, bridge, etc. Now, carefully tune UP to pitch. Only a guitar tuned up to pitch will play in tune. A guitar tuned down to pitch will play out of tune, I guarantee. I used to tune pianos. This is how it's done there.

The reason I don't like automatic tuning gears on some Gibsons is that they will take a guitar that has gone sharp--heat in a case that was stored in a car on the way to a gig, for example--and drop the strings into concert pitch. At that point, there is considerable stored energy behind the nut and the bridge. You go to play and immediately the guitar goes flat. The gears will respond, but you WILL hear this. Boo!