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My short-neck ES-330TD has an odd twangy sound on the first string. After considerable head scratching, I finally identified the source as the saddle adjustment screw sticking up enough that it contacts the string. Looking closer, I find that the bridge tilts ever so slightly toward the tailpiece.
Erlewine says, on LPs, that the top of the bridge should be even with the top of the pickup. Is that the case for 330s? Mine is significantly higher, but the action is about where I want it.
Unlike many others, my bridge doesn’t have a retaining wire, and doesn’t have holes where you would put the ends of one.
Does a little tilt indicate Something Bad is going on, or does it more likely mean that the bridge is too high on the posts, and everything would be well if I just screwed it down?
Thanks. Great forum, etc.
Stu
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07-08-2023 07:06 AM
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A picture is worth a thousand words.
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It's kind of hard for me to picture that. I would think that in order for the saddle screw to touch the string the bridge would have to be tilted a lot more than "ever so slightly". Pictures would help
Originally Posted by StuartF
Erlewine is giving a rule of thumb for adjusting the height of the pickup, not the height of the bridge. An ES-330's pickups are not height adjustable (except via shims), so this is not applicable
Originally Posted by StuartF
Sounds like you have a "Nashville" bridge rather than an ABR-1. Not uncommon, though on vintage Gibson it could mean the original bridge was replaced.
Originally Posted by StuartF
Tilt per se is not bad, assuming action, intonation, buzzes, etc. are all copacetic. But could indicate more serious issues. If the situation is that in order to get the action where you want it you have to raise the bridge so high that the bridge posts are being levered into a significant tilt causing the adjustment screws to touch the strings, there could be something going on with the top sinking or the neck angle (either of which is a major repair). It could be nothing like that -- e.g., maybe you like really high action, and this guitar just doesn't have enough adjustment range to get you there without causing other problems. Or maybe the action actually isn't OK, and if you lower it enough to fix the tilt you'll discover that you actually want lower action than you realized.
Originally Posted by StuartF
Again, as Mark says, I think we'd need to see pictures showing what's going on (including both the bridge and string action at the 12th fret). Absent that, the best answer is probably "take it to a luthier/repair tech."
Thanks. Great forum, etc.
Stu[/QUOTE]
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Ok. Let's see how this works. The second photo shows the screw close to the string. Maybe the action is higher than I thought and I should just screw it down a little. The saddles are radiused, with the high E being lowest.
As to the bridge, it's absolutely original. My dad bought the guitar new and put it under the bed until I inherited it in 1989.
I have no idea why it looks like there's vaseline on the bridge. It doesn't look like that IRL.
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Bridge is on backwards
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Buy a Faber ABR bridge and your problem will be solved for $70.00
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Is the Faber radiused?
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there's really no right or wrong way for it to face. sometimes depending on the string break angle people face the screws toward the pickups for clearance.
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If you really want it to sound warmer put an ebony or rosewood saddle on it and you would be surprised at the sound.
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some people swap all metal tune o matics for wood for a warmer sound but the nylon saddles on 60s Gibsons are way better than just metal on metal imo, several of my Gibson archtops have them and it doesn't make a huge difference over wood.
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Yes it 12 degrees and is pre notched. A drop in Gibson replacement.
Originally Posted by StuartF
Made in Germany and much better quality then the stock Gibson.
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It appears that the string groove on the high E saddle is too deep.
Replace the saddle and that will fix your problem. You don’t need a new bridge.
The string groove should be minimal.
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To me, it looks like the saddle screw is not sitting in the bridge properly. The head of the screw should not be sitting above the bridge, but on your high e saddle, it is. On your low e, it’s not.
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I also thought it looked like it was on backwards, or at least, that reversing it might help.
Are the saddle notches supposed to be angled so that reversing the bridge matters?
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My memory is telling me that it would not matter too much. I believe that I had to flip a saddle once to give me a little more room for intonation. My memory is also telling me that it was a quick fix. I later had a tech do a whole setup, and things were then back to normal. (I do not fully trust my memory, because I forget anything that I do not do often enough).
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I am fairly certain the screws point toward the tail so that they are accesible with a screw driver.
I also don’t believe the bridge is pinned, meaning that if you need to push it away from the nut for intonation you can just slide the base back a bit.
Best yet, find a reputable tech to do a proper set up. I have an uneasy feeling about your last tech’s abilities.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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I don't disagree. Unfortunately, my tech is The Guy around here. It's hard to even get a suggestion about someone else.
Originally Posted by rlrhett
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Looking at the photos, it appears that the screws are on different levels, or angles. Not right. If you can determine why that is, you may get closer to a solution. Are the saddles sitting flat in their slots???
The retainer spring in ABR's helps to insure that this happens.
I remember always having to tweak something on my Gibsons. I shouldn't have had to. But on one, I did file the edge of those saddle screws so that they didn't touch the strings! And the bridge was not tilting, the action was fine.Last edited by Jimmy Mack; 07-11-2023 at 06:29 PM.
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I would check the intonation too. Normally on the TOM the high E and B at least have the saddle facing toward the Pickup. With the saddle facing away and the saddle all the way back toward the tail there will be a tendency for the saddle and adjusting screw to rise up like yours is doing.
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It’s not going to hurt to flip it and see. It’s also a cost free solution.
Originally Posted by wintermoon
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OP…. It’s a mounted bridge don’t push it.
Originally Posted by rlrhett
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Can you see now why a Faber ABR is a instant fix. The stock Gibson is on the left. No slop, no rattles, and precise intonation. Yes they offer different saddles and nickel finish too. Under $70. 1st order is always 10% off and every holiday. Far superior quality.
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Cool Vinny, and it appears that the heads of the screws are smaller, no? That could help!
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Yes and far lower to the saddles
Originally Posted by Jimmy Mack



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