Tone knob in pedals vs guitar (installed wrong capacitor)

[hoosier1981]

For those with Multi-FX units (Hotone, Line6, etc...) - is it generally acceptable to leave the tone all the way up on your guitar and tone it down on a certain type of "pedal" or effect block?
Here is why I ask:
I put a set of Parsons Street Humbuckers in my Eastman AR372CE Archtop. It was my first time installing electronics. I did the normal wiring from their PDF which I think is a classic Gibson style.
I did notice the volume from 10-9 works but lower than that almost shuts each pickup off. The tone doesn't seem all that muddy, so I assumed I was ok with the install...
I just looked at my amazon purchase history and realized I'd ordered 0.22uF capacitors instead of 0.022uF. (I guess since the item description said 'guitar' I didn't think anything of it).
I did notice the caps looked quite LARGE and wondering why. Doh!

So I'm going to order the correct tone caps and painstakingly pull everything out and re-do it.
In the meantime I wanted to record a few Christmas chord melodies before I re-do the guitar. I think it sounds 'ok' as-is, unless I turn the tone nearly all the way down and it gets muddy. - however given the botch install, would you all leave the knobs maxxed, and is there a common way in a multi-fx unit that would do a similar tone adjustment as the guitar knob?
Also, the PDF doesn't mention audio-taper vs linear. Is there a general rule of thumb for this type with 2 tone, 2 volume?

[jorgemg1984]

The Line6 pedals (helix) have an hi-cut (and low-cut) as one of the eq "pedals". Never tried it, but it should work similar enough to a guitar tone control.

As far as i remember, back when I needed a low-cut, only the Helix had this feature, from all the more affordable multi-fx.

[SOLR]

For those with Multi-FX units (Hotone, Line6, etc...) - is it generally acceptable to leave the tone all the way up on your guitar and tone it down on a certain type of "pedal" or effect block?
Here is why I ask:
I put a set of Parsons Street Humbuckers in my Eastman AR372CE Archtop. It was my first time installing electronics. I did the normal wiring from their PDF which I think is a classic Gibson style.
I did notice the volume from 10-9 works but lower than that almost shuts each pickup off. The tone doesn't seem all that muddy, so I assumed I was ok with the install...
I just looked at my amazon purchase history and realized I'd ordered 0.22uF capacitors instead of 0.022uF. (I guess since the item description said 'guitar' I didn't think anything of it).
I did notice the caps looked quite LARGE and wondering why. Doh!

So I'm going to order the correct tone caps and painstakingly pull everything out and re-do it.
In the meantime I wanted to record a few Christmas chord melodies before I re-do the guitar. I think it sounds 'ok' as-is, unless I turn the tone nearly all the way down and it gets muddy. - however given the botch install, would you all leave the knobs maxxed, and is there a common way in a multi-fx unit that would do a similar tone adjustment as the guitar knob?
Also, the PDF doesn't mention audio-taper vs linear. Is there a general rule of thumb for this type with 2 tone, 2 volume?

Wandering from your original query I would replace the tone pots with these : selectable capacitance, both 250 and 500 ohms select, easy to install and CTS and solder free. CTS 500k/250k Audio/Log Push-Pull Pot, Solder-Free (2)
– ToneShapers... It's more than the cost of the replacement appropriate caps but, why not ? An outboard EQ would solve your immediate problem....there are many in pedal form ....I would fix at the source since you know where the problem lies...The vol. pots should not shut the audio below 9 ??? extreme audio taper .....

S

[sgosnell]

Tone is a matter of taste. I leave the tone knob fully open almost all the time, on any guitar. I roll it off a little if I really feel I have to, but I do most of my tone shaping either with an EQ pedal or the amp, mostly the amp. I generally prefer the volume to be somewhere in the vicinity of 50%, but that's just a broad generality. I use whatever works at the time. Make sure you're not confusing picofarads with microfarads - pF vs uF. The wiring should be the same for any type taper. The taper just affects how quickly the resistance of the pot is changed when turning the shaft. Yours appears to be changing very quickly, more than usual.

In short, I think it's fine to leave the controls wide open. I have one guitar, which tends to be dark, with no tone control at all, trying to get it as bright as possible, and that works for me. I would be fine with no tone control on most guitars, but that's just me, not you. It's probably a good idea to redo the wiring, and make absolutely sure everything is correct. There are multiple wiring schemes that work, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. For removing and reinstalling the wiring, I recommend something like this: Archtop Guitar Helping Hand - StewMac I made my own from a wire coathanger, works like a charm, orders of magnitude easier than using strings and things through the pot holes.