Cutting & Polishing Compounds + Machine (Johnny Smith)

[Archie]

Hi all.

I recently cut and polished my GBJSA. There were some deep impressions left in the nitro cellulose finish, caused by the floating pickup and some general scratches, from playing and handling.

The whole process took about an hour and you can see it from start to finish here.
I have linked the products in the video, for anyone wishing to know more about them.
I used Menzerna car polish, which is German made and specially formulated for use on vintage cars. They contain no silicone or wax.
I used a ShineMate MOP, model number EP803, which worked perfectly well.

I made sure to use the MOP on a slower speed setting, to avoid creating hotspots in the finish. If you do create hotspots, simply let them cool down, before continuing to polish. A good way of knowing how hot you're getting the finish, is to periodically stop and lightly put the back of you fingers on the surface.
Do not buff off, or towel off the surface, if it is hot. Further more, I would suggest not getting the surface hot

The very soft pads compress easily and in effect, you end up buffing on a plastic disc. Firmer pads keep their shape and thus adjust better to the contours of the top, which will help you avoid cutting into the finish.

I wouldn't use polish's or MOP's on vintage guitars with nitro cellulose. The Guild is a relatively new guitar and the nitro finish is in good condition. On Poly coated guitars, you can mop to your hearts content. I now have a 1983 Ibanez Jp-20 that looks brand new

Please use caution when MOP'ing any finish. It is very easy to cut through the clear coat, which you do not want to do. It's better to go soft and slow.

Also please subscribe to my YouTube channel for more videos. My last video shows me making some side bending jigs on CNC. I'll include it here too.

[Archie]

Cutting Compound & Polish
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/menzerna-250ml-sampler-kit

MOP
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shinemate-ep803-rotary-polisher-kit

I can also recommend the extension kit to get into hard to reach places
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/nano-rotary-polisher-extension-kit

[icr]

Yes, hand polish only for vintage nitro guitars. That little polisher looks like just the ticket for poly, which is very difficult to polish by hand.

[2bornot2bop]

Your reflection shines through.

[bluejaybill]

Yes, hand polish only for vintage nitro guitars. That little polisher looks like just the ticket for poly, which is very difficult to polish by hand.

Yes, especially an old finish with lacquer checking as the polishes can get caught in those cracks. Not so good.

[Max405]

Archie,
Good choice on the polishes.
I’ve been using Menzerna Po85rd for years. I think they call it Super Finish plus now.
I’ve actually used this stuff on a Blue/Blue Bugatti Veyron and an Arancio Atlas Orange Lamborghini LP640. So I don’t have a problem using it on a $10,000 guitar.
Menzerna is the stuff to use. It is a non diminishing micro abrasive that just keeps cutting to an incredible shine.
I use different pads to make the product more or less aggressive. The less aggressive is the Lake Country blue or black pad. More aggressive is the white or orange pads. In both cases, I use 5-1/2” pads. I use a Porter Cable Dual Action machine.
Just keep the pad moving. Slowly, but surely. You will never burn through.
JD

[vinnyv1k]

Nobody can make a guitar "POP" like my Bro Joe can.

[Archie]

Archie,
Good choice on the polishes.
I’ve been using Menzerna Po85rd for years. I think they call it Super Finish plus now.
I’ve actually used this stuff on a Blue/Blue Bugatti Veyron and an Arancio Atlas Orange Lamborghini LP640. So I don’t have a problem using it on a $10,000 guitar.
Menzerna is the stuff to use. It is a non diminishing micro abrasive that just keeps cutting to an incredible shine.
I use different pads to make the product more or less aggressive. The less aggressive is the Lake Country blue or black pad. More aggressive is the white or orange pads. In both cases, I use 5-1/2” pads. I use a Porter Cable Dual Action machine.
Just keep the pad moving. Slowly, but surely. You will never burn through.
JD

My best friend ran a car valeting company in Guildford. I worked with him when he needed the help and I needed some extra money.
It was s lot of fun, although hard work.
He now works for Mercedes as the head of their car valeting.

I was really pleased with how the polish's turned out. I can see why you like them. They weren't cheap but they will likely do 15 guitars for £35.

[Archie]

Nobody can make a guitar "POP" like my Bro Joe can.

I've taken to watching YouTube videos of watch repairers.
They will re-coat a watch to complete the work, if the client requests it.
I've though about it for the pickups and metal parts on guitars, one too many times.

I really hope I don't actually try it but I can't make any promises.

I bet Joe's thought of the same thing one too many times too.

[Eck]

Great info on the polish. I’m interested in CNC. Planning to make a thinline hollowbody. My question is: should I redo my dwg files in fusion 360 or make templates and route by hand, in your opinion?


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[Archie]

Great info on the polish. I’m interested in CNC. Planning to make a thinline hollowbody. My question is: should I redo my dwg files in fusion 360 or make templates and route by hand, in your opinion?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I remember your project. You seem happy enough with the sketch you drew in CAD, so I would use that.
You need to turn your sketch into a solid body by extruding your surface. Then split the body down the centre so you have two halves.
Use each half to make the side bending forma's. A top is cut to the sides, not the sides cut to the top.

You can always cut your forma's on a router which is quicker than CNC but I would make the template for those forms on CNC if you want the initial accuracy of your CAD sketch.
How do you intend to produce your arched plates? That's the tricky bit. You need to make a forma to press your laminates into.

[Eck]

I remember your project. You seem happy enough with the sketch you drew in CAD, so I would use that.
You need to turn your sketch into a solid body by extruding your surface. Then split the body down the centre so you have two halves.
Use each half to make the side bending forma's. A top is cut to the sides, not the sides cut to the top.

You can always cut your forma's on a router which is quicker than CNC but I would make the template for those forms on CNC if you want the initial accuracy of your CAD sketch.
How do you intend to produce your arched plates? That's the tricky bit. You need to make a forma to press your laminates into.

I’m avoiding a lot of that skilled work. My lazy plan was to cut the bottom half out of one block and the top out of a plate. Bit like a Les Paul or Thinline Telecaster. I’ve already got the blocks.
But too stingy to fork out for Draftsight 3D or Autocad and Fusion 360 doesn’t accept dwg format. However I think I can define the body n terms of geometrical shapes and maybe just key in the values for the vectors.
I got 2 base-blocks and two tops. Shaped close to ES-235. First one will definitely be flat top and have a telecaster bridge! The second I will go for the forma, it’s gonna be a small bump, like the ES-235. For that one I’m planning a p90 neck pu and a varitone but no bridge pu. It’s gonna take a year I think. All my free time this past week went to fixing the shower with 45mm square tiles!


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