String Buzz / Humidity / TR Experiment ?

[Cunamara]

When you check relief, the usual procedure is to hold the strings down at the 1st and 15th frets (17th on Fender guitars), not the 12th fret. Relief usually is checked from the end of the truss rod, which on an archtop is usually where it meets the body.

Your guitar may need a fret dressing.

[JCat]

...Thanks JC, that's a lot of good information. And many thanks to DM SkyB and the other knowledgeable respondents.

I have learned a lot since digging into this. This '50's L-7 has Gibson's skinny frets, and I may rightly or wrongly have equated them with fussy set-up issues and less adjustment stability....FWIW it's also had a recent fret level......

But now I can at least understand some of the principles involved and the problems that arise, some of which aren't easy fixes.

The dead straight neck - - w/little or no relief - -is still there - - with strings tuned to pitch, and the tr nut -at least under some tension - turned 1/4 to the left...It seems that if loosened any further, there just isn't any ' hold ' .....It probably has 1/3 - 1/2 a turn while it'll still holds the it just goes loose and unscrews...........

So I raised the bridge 'til most of the buzzing has stopped although the D & G strings will buzz a little at times......So it's more than playable, and if it eventually gets some relief, that can't hurt.

Thanks again to all !!

A common problem is if the frets were leveled without sufficient pre-tension in the truss rod, then a stiff neck won't get enough relief. There are techniques to help the neck bow.

Sometimes a stubborn neck won't bow the way we want. For example a stiff neck that's been back bowed over a long time will resist string tension (just like a neck without a truss rod). You'll have to give it special treatment (and hope it doesn't have to be re-leveled).

Good luck

[sgosnell]

Necks can have backbow that's difficult to remove just with string tension. Sometimes a heavier set of strings can be enough, sometimes it may require removing the frets and planing the fretboard, depending on how much there is. It sounds like your neck is pretty much set straight, and doesn't want to give any relief. That's fine, IMO, and should require no further work. Live with it. A perfectly level neck, with perfectly leveled frets, results in the lowest possible action. Just adjust the bridge to a height that doesn't cause buzzes and be happy. The radius of the saddle does make a difference, but whether it's enough to be a problem is up to you. I think you have too little radius on your saddle, from the symptoms you described, of the two middle strings buzzing more than the outer ones. But if the overall action when the buzzing goes away is acceptable to you, play and don't fret over it. If the action on the E strings is too high when the buzzing on the center strings goes away, you can increase the radius by deepening the slots or sanding the entire saddle. It's entirely up to you. It seems you're satisfied with the action, so if you are, play on.

[skykomishone]

Dennis D,

I feel your pain, brother!

This thread contains some excellent commentary that I think is important for us all, especially the weekend luthier types like me that own a number of different guitars that might require varying degrees of adjustment, given the dynamic nature of wood. Since sufficient periods of time of relative guitar stability pass during which I don't need to do a thing, then BAM!, I'm picking up a guitar and it buzzes, I need to refresh my understanding of cause and effect, and of remedy. We all love our guitars and want to do the right thing. Sometimes, a simple elevation adjustment at the wheel screw on the bridge will do the trick, and sometimes I need to relieve the tension on the TR.

For me, I like to use a steel straight edge that I bought from StewMac, the longer one that spans most of the fretboard, and the machinist's feeler gauge. This approach I think works best for me when a little relief adjustment is necessary. I don't like using capo's or fingers. I'm fairly mechanical, and I've watched experienced luthiers do it this way, under string tension. I've learned to get over my anxiety about it, although the fear can be useful when transformed into understanding and a
careful approach.


Cheers!

[Dennis D]

Dennis D,

I feel your pain, brother!

This thread contains some excellent commentary that I think is important for us all, especially the weekend luthier types like me that own a number of different guitars that might require varying degrees of adjustment, given the dynamic nature of wood. Since sufficient periods of time of relative guitar stability pass during which I don't need to do a thing, then BAM!, I'm picking up a guitar and it buzzes, I need to refresh my understanding of cause and effect, and of remedy. We all love our guitars and want to do the right thing. Sometimes, a simple elevation adjustment at the wheel screw on the bridge will do the trick, and sometimes I need to relieve the tension on the TR.

For me, I like to use a steel straight edge that I bought from StewMac, the longer one that spans most of the fretboard, and the machinist's feeler gauge. This approach I think works best for me when a little relief adjustment is necessary. I don't like using capo's or fingers. I'm fairly mechanical, and I've watched experienced luthiers do it this way, under string tension. I've learned to get over my anxiety about it, although the fear can be useful when transformed into understanding and a
careful approach.


Cheers!

Yes, for sure this was informative for me ! I found another thread five years ago where I mentioned I'd just taken in my L-7's, and how my luthier had done a heat /clamp procedure on this same guitar. I didn't really press him for an explanation, thinking he had better things to do. But ok, next time I'll be better informed.
This also helped me understand, among other things, that age-old but not too clear question " Does the truss work ? "
Answer: ( like the Jewish tailor joke ) " Yes, but it could be let out a little ." ....... : )

Thanks much and thanks again.

[skiboyny]

Yes, for sure this was informative for me ! I found another thread five years ago where I mentioned I'd just taken in my L-7's, and how my luthier had done a heat /clamp procedure on this same guitar. I didn't really press him for an explanation, thinking he had better things to do. But ok, next time I'll be better informed.
This also helped me understand, among other things, that age-old but not too clear question " Does the truss work ? "
Answer: ( like the Jewish tailor joke ) " Yes, but it could be let out a little ." ....... : )

Thanks much and thanks again.

Your truss is a single action truss. It more than likely works just fine. It's design is to pull the neck back to counter string tension. Your guitars neck is not requiring it's services. Either the neck has developed a natural back bow, or possibly fret leveled without the neck being straight.

I feel very strongly that players should get themselves very acquainted with all aspects of guitar set-up. I learned out of desperation really, I just wasn't lucky enough to have a local luther that would satisfy my needs. I went thru lots of guitars looking for the one with a "great neck". Come to find out most guitars are capable of filing that bill, with proper and through set-up. If your a person looking for low action, with no buzzing, everything has to be right. In my opinion most off the shelf new guitars will not fit that description, without proper attention. Leads me to believe most players aren't requiring it. If your hands on, it's easy enough, if you're not you should at least know everything pertaining to set-up so that you can properly ask for exactly what your looking for. It's great to see you begin this journey and I encourage all others to follow.