Nut slots on vintage Danelectro

[David Dvorin]

Lately I’ve been enjoying playing my 1956 Silvertone U2 (vintage, not RI) and getting into the wonderfullness that is lipstick tube single coils. However, the aluminum nut has an issue wherein the 1st string open is a little muffled compared with the others. I had a repair person file the slot a bit when I purchased, but I’m guessing that it might not be wide enough? I’m using .11s with a wound G...maybe it’s too deep?

This is coupled with the fact that the guitar has a bit lower output for that string anyway (even fretted). The 2nd string is a monster tho’! Bigger b string tone than all my other guitars...really thick and round and loud. 1st string is kinda meh in comparison...Can’t really tilt the pickup any different to get more out the 1st without also effecting the 2nd, I’m guessing.

Great guitar, but could use some advice on whether I should be buying a fret file or replacing the nut, and if so, what material?

Any other Dano-lovers out there that has advice? I’ve got the pickups pretty close to the strings as I was told that these being weak-ish in output that they don’t pull on the strings as much? BTW, the intonation seems decent, and the original bridge assembly does not show any of the concave problems some exhibit.

Thanks in advance!

[neatomic]

nice...big dano fan...you don't want to replace original aluminum nut unless absolutely needed...

try putting some pencil lead/graphite in nut slot...

my long experience with dano guitars is that the problem is coming from the other end...the saddle/bridge..the tilt bridge chrome plate and wooden saddle height has huge effect...make sure all is well there

you can check if nut slot is too low by placing minute piece of paper under string in nut slot, and seeing if that relieves problem...if not, your problem is elsewhere i.e. bridge/saddle

luck...great guitars...and i think you can still find replacement aluminum nuts for them around, just in case


cheers

[sgosnell]

Can't really tell without playing it. The slot could be a little too deep, too wide, too narrow, or just a bad string. Too deep or too wide is a problem. The slot could be partially filled with UV-cured resin, but I won't guarantee the sound of the open string will be exactly the same as the others. I've never played anything with an aluminum nut. JB Weld will also fill the slot, but it cures very hard, probably harder than aluminum, and can be a bear to rework. Too narrow is an easy enough fix, just widen the slot with an appropriate file. But my guess (and it's only a guess, because I haven't seen the guitar) is that the slot is just barely too deep, and the string is buzzing on the first fret. That should be easy enough to check, by fretting at the first fret and seeing how much the string moves down. It should be about the same as the movement when fretting the first fret and then refretting at the second. It takes two hands, or a capo, to do that, and two hands is probably better, because you can see the difference immediately. It could also be the other things neatomic mentioned.

[David Dvorin]

I appreciate all the good info! Will try the 1st fret/2nd fret trick to see if the nut slot is too deep and check out the bridge assembly...

Neatomic, what should I look for in the bridge that might explain what you mention? Am I looking at the wood/slots, or metal? I’m new to these...

Thanks again!

[neatomic]

Neatomic, what should I look for in the bridge that might explain what you mention? Am I looking at the wood/slots, or metal? I’m new to these...

you want the chrome bridge plate to be slightly angled...(lower on the string ball side-where the single adjusment screw is) so that the string angle over the wooden saddle breaks enough to give you a clear tone...sometimes some sanding of the wood saddle is needed as well, to create a more precise contact point..but the plate angling should help...

luck

cheers