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Wires are easy to resolder. Connectors, if any, should be taken out because eventually they will corrode, pu wires soldered directly to pins 1 & 3 of the volume pot. Broken humbuckers are rare I'd guess, unless you yank on its wire so much that it hurts your hand, or you decide to plug it into the mains... Even such a (2W in North America) heating attempt might take a few seconds to melt... :-)
Still waiting for the ohmmeter or wiring inspection results... ;-) If the pot is out and turned CW to Vol 10, there should be zero ohms between its pin 3 and the switch terminal too... It's not rocket science.
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01-14-2019 12:27 AM
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Waiting on the correct switch to arrive and a new neck pu to get here. I ordered a Golden Age Parson Street to have on hand in case.
Originally Posted by blujazman
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Just installed the new switch at work and she’s alive! It was a bad switch after all. I tested through a little crappy Ibanez amp here to check my work. Now, I’ll play it for a few days and decide whether or not to install the Golden Age pu that showed up this morning. Thanks to everybody for the help.
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If the pickup is the stock Epiphone on the "non-premium" models, you'll likely want to replace it. I'd suggest playing it, then put the GA in and play it, then decide. Originally Posted by Esport
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It's not the '57 that comes loaded in the Premium. It's an Alnico Classic, I think? Anyway, I'm sure the Golden Age will be in by the weekend but in the meantime I'll test drive the stocker and see what it's like.
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I read somewhere that a cluster of features of the Epiphone pickup hurt their performance, ranging from the cover to the wiring inside the guitar (?). It compares, I think, pretty closely to the Gibson 490R pickup (neck). The two guitars I had with those pickups sounded okay really but were much improved by upgrades, one the modest Golden Age Alnico II, the other with the Seymour Duncan Seth Lover. Originally Posted by Esport
My MiK Peerless Broadway I have decided to redo the entire wiring harness as a project. Should be interesting!
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I detest pulling the controls into position in an archtop, but I still do it a lot. That's by far the worst part of rewiring one.
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Well this just keeps getting better. I took the strings off to prepare for he pu swap and as I removed the last string, the nut just fell out. Awesome.
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This is what was in the neck. What model is this?
And why are all my pics rotated 90 degrees??
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57CH was Epiphone's standard humbucker, PAF style, for ages, might still be. I think it stands for "57 Classic Humbucker" or the like. Originally Posted by Esport
This is what was in the neck. What model is this?
And why are all my pics rotated 90 degrees??
Not a horrible pickup, but easily improved upon. IN one guitar, I put in a Seymour Duncan Seth Lover, in another, the Parson Street Golden-Age Alnico II. the latter is MUCH cheaper and an excellent pickup. Completely un-potted, whereas the Epiphone 57CH is completely wax-potted.
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As for your pictures... at least pictures taken with iPhones have a tag or something for orientation that doesn't fit the standards of this board (or some other picture oriented sites). I usually send a picture from my phone to my computer, open it in Preview (Mac), rotate 360 degrees back to the correct position and save. That seems to set the orientation tags correctly. Originally Posted by Esport
This is what was in the neck. What model is this?
And why are all my pics rotated 90 degrees??
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Golden Age Alnico 2 is what I just installed. Right now I'm trying to fish the output jack back into place. The trimmed cable I was using fell off and now I'm cursing it's existence.
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Been there. Just be grateful it's not a 335 where there is almost no room in there to work. Originally Posted by Esport
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What I usually use for jacks is an old guitar string, preferably an E or D. They're bigger and stiffer. I put the ball end through the jack from the inside and then through the hole from the inside, so that the coiled up end that was around the tuner capstan pulls the jack into place, and can still be pulled out with some slight force. I keep some old used strings around just for this, as well as for other handy uses. Nothing else that I've found works as well, and is as cheap.
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I cut an old 1/4 cable down and trimmed the shroud as narrow as possible. I plugged it into the jack and tied a knot at the tail end so I could feed the plugged in cable through the body while attached to the jack. This should've allowed me to reel in the jack back into position when finishing up, but the damn thing came unplugged. I had to hold the guitar up above my head and gently jiggle the jack close enough to the hole in the body so I could insert some needle nose into the jack and slide it into place. Definitely not graceful but eventually, successful.
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Ha ha , imagining you there ES , Originally Posted by Esport
Oh well , you got it eventually
I tie floss round them before removal ......It doesn't break easily
Is your Guitar all good to go now ?
does it sound better with the new PU etc etc
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It was definitely a pain! I still have to reset the nut and string it up before I can test my work. Everything was done at work during down time so I wasn't entirely equipped to complete every task. Originally Posted by pingu
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With enough patience, lots of methods can work. I don't always have the patience required, so I've developed some methods that work for me. The guitar string has proved the quickest and most reliable for me, but whatever works, works. As for the nut, it should have just barely enough glue to hold it in place, only a drop or so. Sometimes over long stretches of time, the glue can fail, or the nut can be moved enough to break the adhesion. It's not a major repair. I usually use a very small drop of cyanoacrylate, maybe two, depending on the nut and the surface beneath it. If I can't get a drop in the center, a very small drop near each end works. Just don't overdo the amount of glue, whatever you use. The only purpose of the glue is to keep the nut in place if all the strings are removed. Strings at tension will hold the nut without glue, as you already found out.
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Ive got a grounding issue. The original pu just had one red wire coming from it. The Golden Age has a braided line. I connected the new pu to the same leg on the vol pot as the old one was connected to and soldered a short 24 gauge piece of wire (about 1/2 inch) to the outer metal braid and the back of the pot. Now nothing metal I touch is grounded.
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That one red wire contains two conductors. Under the insulation should be a sheath of fine wires, the shielding/ground, within which is another red wire containing the "hot" conductor. Originally Posted by Esport
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I guess I'm confused. The Epi pu was just connected to the Vol pot via one solder joint at the end leg of the pot. I soldered the hot lead from the new PU to that same leg after removing the old pick up and then grounded the metal braided shroud to the volume pot. Is that the wrong method? Originally Posted by lawson-stone
That one red wire contains two conductors. Under the insulation should be a sheath of fine wires, the shielding/ground, within which is another red wire containing the "hot" conductor.
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I actually don't know. Normally I replace pickups in a more "ghetto" fashion, cutting the lead about half-way and just splicing the pickup lead to the old one. So you ain't exactly talking to an expert here with me! I will listen intently to others. Originally Posted by Esport
BUT: the shield on that cable is very fiber-is; might there be a very tiny short with one of those fibers? Something crossed over when you mounted it all back in place? I wish I knew enough to really help you here.
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Well, since I've never used one of the metal braided cables, I watched a tutorial on Youtube on the proper method. The guy in the demo soldered the actual metal braid to the pot. I didn't have the room to do that so I just created a jump with a short wire lead and soldered that to the pot and the braid. I dunno. Seems like the joint is secure? It's definitely got a slight hum when plugged in and a pronounced hum/buzz when I touch any metal components such as the knobs/pickup covers.
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A pickup won't work with just one wire. Two are required. It's usually done the way Lawson showed, with a center conductor and outer braided shield, but Fender usually just uses two wires, which is noisy but still works. Now the question seems to be how you wired up the new switch. If only one wire was used coming from the pickup, that's probably why the pickup didn't work in the first place. But without seeing anything, I can't really say what is going on. Some photos would be a big help. The wire(s) coming out of the pickup, the switch, and the pots, with the wires labelled. Without that, I won't even guess.
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When I installed the switch, the original pickups worked and there was no grounding issue. The factory pickup had only one connection to one leg of the neck volume pot. I took the new pickup, pulled back the black sheathed "hot" lead and soldered it exactly where the previous pickup was connected. Then, I soldered a short wire to the metal braid and from there to the back of the volume pot. This was the method I saw on several videos. Originally Posted by sgosnell
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