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This one of the 2016 non-reissue 175s. The 2016 models are heavier with thicker laminates and pinned bridges. The bracing wood is different and, as I found out last month, a new piece of brace is mounted under the bridge and receives the bridge pins. Except on mine that piece of brace is missing.
Been fretting over this way too much. Is the top in danger of collapse? Doubt it. For the previous 67 years 175s did not have that brace section. The titanium bridge must be real close in weight to the older metal ABRs. Is MY top more or less responsive than other 2016 models. Uh, Ted it’s a laminate. How many angels can dance on the head of a pin?
Thought about pulling or shortening the pins but can’t see why.Last edited by TedBPhx; 06-27-2018 at 08:03 PM.
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06-27-2018 05:11 PM
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Is your question about the number of angels who can dance on the head of a pin? Probably all of them. As for your guitar, I don't see a need to unpin it if it intonates properly. The pins make it easy to reinstall after a string change, without needing to reintonate it. I don't think the weight of the bridge is an issue at all, only the pressure from the strings. My Epi 175 was pinned, and has no extra bracing, and the top hasn't deformed at all AFAICT, in about 3 years.
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I'm not sure that the holes weaken the top that it would need extra wood there.
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I wish my bridge was pinned ( ihave 2013 175). My only question is what are the odds that thing is intonated by the saddles all being lined up; that's awesome!
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They are offset a little and the saddle section is twisted and drilled off the feet centers. Maybe as much as 30 degrees? Kind of like how the intonation on a carved wood bridge works. Came from the factory dead on. I assume a robot did the aligning and drilling.
Originally Posted by joe2758
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that's awesome, the ocd in me loves it. Mine looks pretty jagged, but it's probably wrong because i did it lol
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Intonation depends heavily on strings. Some sets are more closely intonated with straight bridges than others.
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I'd guess that the weight or pressure is distributed across the base of the bridge and not concentrated at the pin sites.
Others will opine who actually work on guitars and would know.
I'd take no action at all. I'm curious how you noticed that piece of wood was missing?
I tried one of those models too, towards the end of the CME sale. Mine had a poorly cut nut with the high E string on the edge of the board. I loved the tones I was getting out of it but returned it and wound up with a 59 RI 175. Kind of a different beast.
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Someone in a past thread mentioned the block of wood on theirs and I had an old internal photo. Toyed with the idea of fitting a piece of wood in there. With the bridge pickup removed it shouldn’t be too difficult. But can’t think of a good reason to bother. The pins would only extend a thread or two so big deal.
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Just play it and smile.
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Don't touch it! Don't even look at it or think about it! It's fine.
It may even be better without the bracing anyway.
If you need something to occupy yourself, practice this Cmaj9 chord. It's driving me crazy on my 25.5" scale.
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It’s perfectly fine. No block is needed or desired. The parallel braces take all the downward pressure of the bridge feet and distribute it along their length. A cross brace under the bridge is not needed, nor would it make anything better. That natural 175 is as good as it gets, Ted. Don’t worry another millisecond and just play the heck out of it!
Roli
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I agree with the play it and smile idea. I have one of these recent CME 175's too -- mine is dated 2017 and it does have the block of wood underneath -- though the wood block is poorly fitted, so you might not be missing much of anything. Originally Posted by skiboyny
I am intrigued that your tuneomatic saddles look to be all pointing all the same direction! My 175 has the low E and A strings with the saddles reversed. FYI, I changed the titanium saddles to brass and have enjoyed the tonal change.
I love my guitar. I've had it since December. It does have a few finish imperfections if you go looking, but damn if it doesn't sound great and play great -- even though it's a sunburst !!!! It's not going anywhere.
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New strings on, TISwing12, those Newtone Archtops aren’t right for me on this guitar. I change strings every 2 or 3 months so it’ll be awhile before I think about the bridge again.
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If it ain't broken, don't fix it.
Sendt fra min SM-T810 med Tapatalk
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Marty,
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That's the problem when we go sticking mirrors in crevices. I'd not worry about that "missing" block of bracing. It was never a feature of the ES-175 and may have been a kludge. I'd be concerned if I found one under my ES-175.
As for the pins, your call. I'd leave them alone. Here's a thought: you now have the option of fitting long brass posts and thumbwheels to them for a fixed TOM base-free ES-335 vibe. One more tonal option.
Just enjoy your ES-175. I saw your NGD and you have a nice blondie. Gibson used some nice flamed maple as inner veneer. Imagine that.
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It’s just a feature that makes mine, mine.
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Plywood is darn sturdy.
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"Let it be...."
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Speaking words of wisdom... Originally Posted by citizenk74
"Let it be...."
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I am curious why some have them and some do not. I wonder if after the guitar is assembled, they determine whether or not the brace is needed based on how much of thread is exposed after a proper plek setup. If there is a lot of thread exposed or maybe if the guitar would be fitted with a bigsby, then maybe that is how gibson determines if the brace is needed.
I have a recent 335 build with the posts mounted right through the top (no bushings), I will have to examine. I would prefer a bushing vs. going right through the top (not necessarily a brace on the other side). You bring up an interesting point.
BTW: Lovely flame on the inside of that 175....
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Rumors of closing and models ending must have been rampant at the Memphis factory in 2016 and 17. One assumes employee moral and dedication to craft was not at a high point.
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