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The distance from the guitar top to the top of the saddles isn't really telling you anything. To make an informed decision about whether there's a problem, you need to know the string action height and whether there's room for adjustment at the saddle. Action is typically measured from the top of the 12th fret to the underside of the high and low E strings (with appropriate neck relief set first). Typical electric guitar action is 4/64" (1.6mm) to 5/64" (2mm) on the bass side and 3/64" to (1.2mm) to 4/64" (1.6 mm) on the treble side. If it's below that range by more than a small amount (and there's fret buzz) and the bridge is about as high as it can safely go, the guitar is no good. Above that range and the bridge is screwed down all the way, also NG.
Originally Posted by chris32895
Looking more closely at the picture though, it sort of looks like the bridge saddles are all the way back in their travel range. If so, that suggests to me that the bridge is too far forward (at a spot where the top is lower), which might explain the high bridge. Pushing the bridge back a scoche and re-doing the intonation might allow the bridge to come down. More and clearer pictures and a more detailed explanation from the seller of the guitar's set-up might give more confidence about buying it. Absent that, I'd say look elsewhere. I just looked on Reverb, and there are several there for pretty cheap, and none of them have the bridge cranked all the way up.
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09-25-2024 12:00 PM
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The neck relief, action height, and the neck angle all affect the needed bridge height. I couldn't make a decision based just on that one photo. It might be fine, it might not, just not nearly enough information. I have an archtop which has the top of the saddle just over 1.25" above the top. There is nothing wrong with it, it's just that the neck is very high and slightly angled back, which puts the bridge that high, with a straight neck and low action. It appears from the photo that the neck is pretty high on the guitar in that photo. Having a neck that is high above the top isn't necessarily a fatal flaw, but again I can't be sure about anything from that one photo.
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Here are some more pictures. Thanks everyone
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Oh, that's a very attractive price. I see what you mean!
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The bridge looks like it's maybe an 1/8" too close to the bridge. Pushing it further back a little probably would bring the saddle down a bit. But to echo what Sgosnell said, you really need complete information about the set-up to tell whether the guitar is OK. Originally Posted by chris32895
Here are some more pictures. Thanks everyone
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Keep in mind the shop did say the instrument's action was lowered so what was in the picture is higher than what it is now. They said the action was a touch high, but not crazy high. They said the distance from the top to the strings was about 1" after adjustment. They said it came from someone who barely played it (apparently, who really knows). I agree about the saddles and that pushing the bridge towards the tailpiece some would help both intonation and saddle height. I don't think the shop did a full setup on this guitar as honestly what other instruments they have in stock are priced much higher, and they are probably focused on those. Originally Posted by John A.
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It looks to me as if the neck angle may be the primary cause of the bridge height, along with the installed height. It certainly shouldn't need a reset, ever. I don't really see a problem with the guitar, based on just a couple of photos. I have no idea what else could be hiding, but I can't see anything. The top does not look sunken in the photos, the f holes look pretty much even, at that viewing angle. Again, I can't see enough to be sure of anything, but I wouldn't be put off based solely on those photos.
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Just to reiterate, the distance from the top to the strings is not a meaningful measurement. It's not telling you anything about how a guitar plays. The measures that matter are height of the strings above the frets (action), and neck relief. IMO,, if a shop keeps mentioning top->string distance that's not a good sign about their ability to describe the condition of a guitar and/or set it up correctly. I'd probably not buy a guitar from them without being able to check it out first or a good return policy. Originally Posted by chris32895
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I agree, so I called again. The shop manager was very friendly and seemed knowledgeable (at least moreso than I) and let me know that yes, the bridge was high, but it's a matter of many factors including neck angle and such and that the bridge still has room for adjustment. He says he's had many archtops through his hands and sometimes the bridges are high, sometimes low. The instrument looks good otherwise and the price was really, really good with a case and many upgrades. They have a return policy. Originally Posted by John A.
I ended up getting it as shopping around on Reverb for cheap, single pickup archtops was making my head spin. I also like to take a risk every now and then
Will update here with how this turns out
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Hopefully it'll turn out to be a great guitar. If not, lesson learned for the cost of shipping. Originally Posted by chris32895
I agree, so I called again. The shop manager was very friendly and seemed knowledgeable (at least moreso than I) and let me know that yes, the bridge was high, but it's a matter of many factors including neck angle and such and that the bridge still has room for adjustment. He says he's had many archtops through his hands and sometimes the bridges are high, sometimes low. The instrument looks good otherwise and the price was really, really good with a case and many upgrades. They have a return policy.
I ended up getting it as shopping around on Reverb for cheap, single pickup archtops was making my head spin. I also like to take a risk every now and then
Will update here with how this turns out
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I've had one of these for 15 years and I really like it. I know Lawson likes his too. Mine was built in 1998 by Peerless. I hope yours works out for you.
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I keep trying to remember to look at mine when I go home, and I forget. I will check out my ZR and see how it compares to yours. For some reason I recollect thinking the bridge was a bit high, but that could be the grey cells winking on and off... Originally Posted by chris32895
I agree, so I called again. The shop manager was very friendly and seemed knowledgeable (at least moreso than I) and let me know that yes, the bridge was high, but it's a matter of many factors including neck angle and such and that the bridge still has room for adjustment. He says he's had many archtops through his hands and sometimes the bridges are high, sometimes low. The instrument looks good otherwise and the price was really, really good with a case and many upgrades. They have a return policy.
I ended up getting it as shopping around on Reverb for cheap, single pickup archtops was making my head spin. I also like to take a risk every now and then
Will update here with how this turns out
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Alright friends, I just got the guitar. Playing it I liked it quite a bit and it is very clean. It has a '57 Classic Pickup (with CTS pots) in it and Grover Deluxe tuners. Plays pretty well except the string spacing is narrower than my Fender, but I think that's just how these Gibson-style guitars. Bridge height was high but in all honesty the action was pretty high, truss rod needed adjustment, and the bridge needed to be scootched back.
A big HOWEVER though, is that there actually WAS a crack in the bracing on the treble side. It seems to have been repaired but I have no idea how well. I have 1 day to return and I'm thinking about it simply on the principle that this was not disclosed. Also, maybe it's in my head, but I feel like if I press my thumb on that spot it flexes ever so slightly.
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On second look, pressing my thumb on the top where the crack is, I don't feel any flexing. It is also not uneven in the top in any way.
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I thought the regents were supposed to be the Epiphone upgrade, the braces on my broadway are curved and sanded smooth, I would even say they look nice. That's some surprisingly rough sawn "nobody'll see it" work on the regent.
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Here are 2 more pictures of the braces
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Note to self: If you like guitar, do not look inside guitar.
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I think 'Regent" just meant "cutaway"--not positive, but I think that was the import of the "regent" moniker Originally Posted by AllanAllen
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And I think "zephyr" just meant "electric" with the pre-Gibson Epis. Originally Posted by lawson-stone
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Here is the Epiphone Wiki discussion of the terms, and yes, it's confusing! "Zephyr" seems to cover a lot of ground but generally does refer to electric guitars. "Regent" always refers to cutaways.
http://www.epiphonewiki.org/index/Th...%26_Regent.php
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So, I found one of those nearby, after searching online for some months. What is the consensus on these, apart from the fact they look gorgeous?
Will it be “better” than my Korean Ibanez AF120? I know that a real Herb Ellis is not within my financial means.
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If you're talking about the reissue ("150th Anniversary"), IDK about a consensus, but with a maple top, it's not going to sound like a vintage one (spruce top) unplugged. Probably is quite workable plugged in. I think they LOOK great. They LOOK like the vintage ones. Originally Posted by Grigoris
The vintage ones were awesome, of course.
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No, I’m talking about the Zephyr Regent Reissue VS (violin sunburst) like the one that’s in the pictures above and in the videos.
The poor man’s Herb Ellis ES-165
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Wanted to shoot a quick update on this as I've had this guitar now for approximately 6 months. This is a great guitar and my choice for for anyone seeking a budget jazz box. With some setup work and such it really does play super well and the sound, electric and unplugged, is very nice. To me, this beats out the following budget guitars I tried - Epiphone ES 175 (non premium), Ibanez PM35, Ibanez PM20 (although this one is a different sort of guitar and fantastic in its own right). I did own an Eastman 880 for a couple years and this does NOT beat that but this guitar is a totally different type of guitar and 1/6th the price I paid for that.
What really gets me with this guitar (and maybe it's just mine) is that it's very lightweight and resonant. Mine comes in at 5lb 13oz and I think this is a major contributor to its great sound, not to mention superb comfort. I play unplugged A LOT so this is a big deal for me. I kind of forget it's there when I play it because of the weight. Actually, it's because of this instrument that I've come to really love lightweight, full depth laminate boxes with a florentine cut. Also, the neck is just great as I was getting very tired of coming across jazz boxes with extraordinarily thin necks. This one is not too thick, not too thin, and the D profile gives it some shoulder to hang on to.
For a long time I was looking for thinner bodied guitars but I've learned to really love the full size. Maybe it's because I'm a touch taller, but this guitar puts the neck in a perfect position where I never feel discomfort and have easy access to everything. The florentine cut helps a ton, as well.
I am still on the lookout for a nicer guitar but I'm sure whatever I get will essentially be the same as this guitar, but in a nicer version. Probably going to look out for an ES 165, Eastman Pisano 480, or Archtop Tribute AT105, (or if I win the lottery a lightweight 50s single pickup 175) but I will still keep this guitar regardless as it ticks nearly all boxes for a jazz box for me.
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Have you tried the Archtop Tribure AT105? I'm thinking of getting one of those, instead of this second hand Epiphone which is good but I don't really know if it's such a step up from my Ibanez AF120...
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Has anyone tried the JHS Clover preamp pedal?
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