Specing out 18" acoustic archtop for fingerstyle solo usage

[DaveLeeNC]

If I were having a FINGER STYLE instrument built, it wouldn't be large and it certainly wouldn't have steel strings.

I am curious as to why a person would feel that way (either the size or string selection).

Thanks.

dave

[MikeConner]

One consideration regarding size and fingerstyle is in the responsiveness of the front plate. The front plate of an 18" guitar has more mass, even if carved thinner, than a smaller 16" or 17" guitar. More mass can translate into more string energy required to activate the plate - perhaps not the ideal situation for fingerstyle playing. Each note is more likely to "develop" quicker with a smaller plate. So, in the end an 18" guitar may not translate into more volume.

[DaveLeeNC]

One consideration regarding size and fingerstyle is in the responsiveness of the front plate. The front plate of an 18" guitar has more mass, even if carved thinner, than a smaller 16" or 17" guitar. More mass can translate into more string energy required to activate the plate - perhaps not the ideal situation for fingerstyle playing. Each note is more likely to "develop" quicker with a smaller plate. So, in the end an 18" guitar may not translate into more volume.

Interesting. While I have not played a range of 'front plates' I certainly have played a quite wide range of 'picking energies' (fingers on a classical guitar for the most part). I didn't notice anything like what you described over that range of applied energy vs. 'development' speed. But I can see how that might be true.

dave

[NSJ]

It's decided

Aged Spruce solid top carved thin
oval hole with side sound port
Solid Flame maple back, sides and neck
Ebony fingerboard, with special mountains with moon and stars inlay
Stainless jumbo frets
Ebony bridge, Brass Tailpiece w/ Ebony overlay
3.25" inches deep (82.55 mm) including top and back thickness
25 inch scale (63.5 cm)
X Braced
1.75 inch nut width (bone) (44.45 mm)
maple Wood bindings, maple wood armrest.ebony wood fingerrest
Schaller tuners with ebony buttons
Deep (mustard ) yellow nitro finish for the top and sides
Dark brown nitro finalized for back
Sharp Florentine cutaway like the old ES 225s
Special inlay on front and back of headstock

[Stringswinger]

We look forward to the NGD. Don't forget the pictures. Why the dark brown back? Won't this hide the flame maple?

[2bornot2bop]

It's decided

Aged Spruce solid top carved thin
oval hole with side sound port
Solid Flame maple back, sides and neck
Ebony fingerboard, with special mountains with moon and stars inlay
Stainless jumbo frets
Ebony bridge, Brass Tailpiece w/ Ebony overlay
3.25" inches deep (82.55 mm) including top and back thickness
25 inch scale (63.5 cm)
X Braced
1.75 inch nut width (bone) (44.45 mm)
maple Wood bindings, maple wood armrest.ebony wood fingerrest
Schaller tuners with ebony buttons
Deep (mustard ) yellow nitro finish for the top and sides
Dark brown nitro finalized for back
Sharp Florentine cutaway like the old ES 225s
Special inlay on front and back of headstock

Okay, but who's building the guitar?

[NSJ]

Okay, but who's building the guitar?

I think I'm going with the person who costs "12 pro setups and a couple packs of TI strings"

Ten cents on the dollar. That is definitely worth the risk.

[rlrhett]

I think I'm going with the person who costs "12 pro setups and a couple packs of TI strings"

Ten cents on the dollar. That is definitely worth the risk.

Ok, I'll bite. What does that mean? Are you building it for yourself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Frank67]

It's decided

25 inch scale (63.5 cm)
X Braced
1.75 inch nut width (bone) (44.45 mm)

Nice specs! You'll love the 25'' scale together with the 1.75'' nut. Enjoy!

Cheers,
Frank

[2bornot2bop]

Ok, I'll bite. What does that mean? Are you building it for yourself?

Clue - The answers in a similar thread

[rlrhett]

Clue - The answers in a similar thread

Help me out. I'm as dense as a mule! I did a search on 18" arch tops and did a search on "12 pro setups" and found nothing.

[Rob MacKillop]

Wuwu!

[339 in june]

Wuwu!

Yo !

[Encinitastubes]

For a fingerstyle guitar, I thought this thread would be all about right hand spacing. I don't think I've seen a single reference. For me, that would be the most important spec.

[mr. beaumont]

I am curious as to why a person would feel that way (either the size or string selection).

Thanks.

dave

I think fingerstyle playing sounds superior on nylon strings. That's just my opinion. I also hate the feel of fingernails on steel strings.

Finger playing (without nail) is inherently "darker" sounding than using a pick, so I would not want the bassinets of a large body, it will dominate the trebles.

And if I'm playing fingerstyle, I want to get the most out of my right hand. Because of the way the fingers angle, the tone is more consistent if you play with the neck up in "classical position." That would never be comfortable with a large guitar.

I'm in the minority here, just wanted to explain my comment. Nav is an experienced player and has owned several different great guitars, so he knows what he likes best.

[NSJ]

I think fingerstyle playing sounds superior on nylon strings. That's just my opinion. I also hate the feel of fingernails on steel strings.

Finger playing (without nail) is inherently "darker" sounding than using a pick, so I would not want the bassinets of a large body, it will dominate the trebles.

And if I'm playing fingerstyle, I want to get the most out of my right hand. Because of the way the fingers angle, the tone is more consistent if you play with the neck up in "classical position." That would never be comfortable with a large guitar.

I'm in the minority here, just wanted to explain my comment. Nav is an experienced player and has owned several different great guitars, so he knows what he likes best.

Let me be clear: nothing beats the sound of a nylon. However, a really decent classical guitar will cost you, minimum, 5K . Minimum. If you find a Luthier Who is up-and-coming, maybe you can get less than that. If you're lucky.

At this point, I'm happy with my Godin and beater Giannini.

Maybe somewhere down the road I will get a really nice classical guitar.

I guess in that sense arch tops are different because he can get a really decent one that plays up to par for not nearly that much .

I have solved a lot of my playing issues by using a foam guitar support on the left leg . And I only play sitting down. That is exactly what Pasquale Grasso does .

I mean, if this wasn't $.10 or $.20 on the dollar, no way I would commission this. But the risk is affordable .

I have a 16 inch arch top, a 17 inch arch top, and I'm curious to see the difference an 18 inch arch top makes.

Plus, the only guitar I have ever regretted selling was my 1974 Howard Roberts Gibson. I like the fact that oval holes create a more bright sound.

It's clear that with the nails, steel strings require a very nuanced and delicate touch at times, otherwise there's a lot of Wolf tones . And obviously, steel strings gouge the nails so the nails have to be smaller.

Haven't looked into this, I think that 3 1/4 inches depth is the most you want otherwise the bass side will tend to dominate over the treble side.

[DaveLeeNC]

I think fingerstyle playing sounds superior on nylon strings. That's just my opinion. I also hate the feel of fingernails on steel strings.

Finger playing (without nail) is inherently "darker" sounding than using a pick, so I would not want the bassinets of a large body, it will dominate the trebles.

And if I'm playing fingerstyle, I want to get the most out of my right hand. Because of the way the fingers angle, the tone is more consistent if you play with the neck up in "classical position." That would never be comfortable with a large guitar.

I'm in the minority here, just wanted to explain my comment. Nav is an experienced player and has owned several different great guitars, so he knows what he likes best.

Thanks for the additional clarification.

dave

[mr. beaumont]

Let me be clear: nothing beats the sound of a nylon. However, a really decent classical guitar will cost you, minimum, 5K . Minimum. If you find a Luthier Who is up-and-coming, maybe you can get less than that. If you're lucky.

At this point, I'm happy with my Godin and beater Giannini.

Maybe somewhere down the road I will get a really nice classical guitar.

I guess in that sense arch tops are different because he can get a really decent one that plays up to par for not nearly that much .

I have solved a lot of my playing issues by using a foam guitar support on the left leg . And I only play sitting down. That is exactly what Pasquale Grasso does .

I mean, if this wasn't $.10 or $.20 on the dollar, no way I would commission this. But the risk is affordable .

I have a 16 inch arch top, a 17 inch arch top, and I'm curious to see the difference an 18 inch arch top makes.

Plus, the only guitar I have ever regretted selling was my 1974 Howard Roberts Gibson. I like the fact that oval holes create a more bright sound.

It's clear that with the nails, steel strings require a very nuanced and delicate touch at times, otherwise there's a lot of Wolf tones . And obviously, steel strings gouge the nails so the nails have to be smaller.

Haven't looked into this, I think that 3 1/4 inches depth is the most you want otherwise the bass side will tend to dominate over the treble side.

I'm also not sure a good classical guitar is necessarily a good nylon string jazz guitar.

[2bornot2bop]

Everyone should have at least one 18" in their stable, if for no other reason than to hear it say 'is that a phone in your pocket or are you happy to see me big boy'

[campusfive]

+1 on questioning the sensitivity of an 18" guitar for fingerstyle playing. My '32 L-5 is easily one of the most sensitive instruments I've ever played, and it seems like that style of guitar would be better choice. I've not found larger guitars to be more sensitive, and the larger ones seem to do better with a good thumping. But, YMMV.