Guitar photography

[2bornot2bop]

You're definitely on the right track!

Stop down more to get more depth of field, at least f/5.6- f/8 and you will see more overall sharpness.

Since it's a body shot, get in a little tighter and possibly show a bit of the side rim to imply the body depth.

When I've tried stopping down below f/2 indoors the image lighting is decreased in the EVF, or even when using OVF mode. How is one to manually focus if the image isn't displayed because a higher f stop was used? Perhaps I need more familiarity with the camera or perhaps I should try shooting in raw....I just didn't think that shooting in raw would effect what's seen in the LCD or OVF mode.

[mikeSF]

When I've tried stopping down below f/2 indoors the image lighting is decreased in the EVF, or even when using OVF mode. How is one to manually focus if the image isn't displayed because a higher f stop was used? Perhaps I need more familiarity with the camera or perhaps I should try shooting in raw....I just didn't think that shooting in raw would effect what's seen in the LCD or OVF mode.

i don't know your camera, but the LCD or OVF should gain up when you are stopping down (provided you have likewise increased shutter speed) so as not to dim your view. Are you using an old manual exposure lens? That could be it, in which case you would set it wide open to focus and then stop down to meter and expose the shot. Oh wait, that is a camera with a fixed 23mm/2 lens so that would not apply, nevermind.

so, my money is on the theory that you are seeing a dim OVF/EVF because you are underexposed.

[travisty]

I might check your settings. To be obliged to shoot f2 1/8 at ISO 100 indoors is a distinct lack of light, or a setting of underexposure, or the lack of detail could be a setting of how the image is saved on the memory.

I will, of course, defer to those with professional experience but I personally would not shoot handheld, even mirrorless, at longer than 1/30 of a second (possibly slightly slower if it is a very wide angle lens), and expect decent detail. I would move the ISO to 200 or even something like 250 or 320 in order to raise the shutter speed and reduce aperture, get more light, or I would use a tripod if that didn't get me what I wanted.

Light is king.

[Archie]

I might check your settings. To be obliged to shoot f2 1/8 at ISO 100 indoors is a distinct lack of light, or a setting of underexposure, or the lack of detail could be a setting of how the image is saved on the memory.

I will, of course, defer to those with professional experience but I personally would not shoot handheld, even mirrorless, at longer than 1/30 of a second (possibly slightly slower if it is a very wide angle lens), and expect decent detail. I would move the ISO to 200 or even something like 250 or 320 in order to raise the shutter speed and reduce aperture, get more light, or I would use a tripod if that didn't get me what I wanted.

Light is king.

Travisty is right, you need a tripod for low light indoor shooting. My shutter processing speed is probably ver 2 seconds a shot.
You can see from the shot that you are hand holding as it looks slightly blurry.

I'd start off in aperture priority, set your ISO to 800-1600 (check for noise). If you're having trouble with the display being dim, up the exposure dial till you start seeing burnout in the whites. Put it on a tripod and use the 2 sec timer for taking the shot, so there is no camera shake.

[mikeSF]

if you arent using a tripod, you should do that before you start adding noise by raising your ISO. Since this is a stationary subject, there is no reason to let the shutter speed be your variable at base ISO and f/5.6-f/8. If you don't have a tripod, a sturdy bean bag on a stool or some other way to aim and hold steady will work.

[spiral]

@2b
My experience in both Aperture and Photoshop is that both apps processed the Fuji shots with heavy blacks—and that looks like it is happening to your photos if you are processing RAW—at least in the Peerless photo. JPGs out of the camera had better exposure. I always had to move the black point in Aperture to get things a little more nuanced when starting from RAW.

Very cool outdoor shots—one of my favorite types of photography. The sensor in the X100s and newer is the X-Trans like in the higher end range, so there is a big pro sensor inside your new toy.

re: focusing.
Do you have the X100s set to manual focus? You should get a split preview so you can focus. One of the big improvements from the originally x100 is the auto-focus.

[2bornot2bop]

@2b
My experience in both Aperture and Photoshop is that both apps processed the Fuji shots with heavy blacks—and that looks like it is happening to your photos if you are processing RAW—at least in the Peerless photo. JPGs out of the camera had better exposure. I always had to move the black point in Aperture to get things a little more nuanced when starting from RAW.

Very cool outdoor shots—one of my favorite types of photography. The sensor in the X100s and newer is the X-Trans like in the higher end range, so there is a big pro sensor inside your new toy.

re: focusing.
Do you have the X100s set to manual focus? You should get a split preview so you can focus. One of the big improvements from the originally x100 is the auto-focus.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

Yes, I've a pro tripod. Several in fact since owning the D7000 I parted company with a year ago.

I'm not shooting in RAW. Ken Rockwell, and others, swear great results from this camera are had in JPEG. I'm choosing to avoid all auto modes to force myself to learn the camera and photography on a basic level. I've an okay eye...I'm creative. Why not me

yes, that's the daunting task of this or any camera...a zillion inner digital presets...I'll work on finding that split screen. I'd read about it but haven't accessed it just yet.

[Archie]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

Yes, I've a pro tripod. Several in fact since owning the D7000 I parted company with a year ago.

I'm not shooting in RAW. Ken Rockwell, and others, swear great results from this camera are had in JPEG. I'm choosing to avoid all auto modes to force myself to learn the camera and photography on a basic level. I've an okay eye...I'm creative. Why not me

yes, that's the daunting task of this or any camera...a zillion inner digital presets...I'll work on finding that split screen. I'd read about it but haven't accessed it just yet.

Don't forget about processing. You wanna pick up a the last copy or most recent copy of Lightroom.

[spiral]

yes, that's the daunting task of this or any camera...a zillion inner digital presets...I'll work on finding that split screen. I'd read about it but haven't accessed it just yet.

@ 0:38

[mikeSF]

...Ken Rockwell, and others, swear great results from this camera are had in JPEG....

as long as others besides KR do too i guess that's ok. I personally would not listen to any advice from that guy. It's more of an entertainment site, IMO.

[2bornot2bop]

as long as others besides KR do too i guess that's ok. I personally would not listen to any advice from that guy. It's more of an entertainment site, IMO.

Actually I only went to KR for help in setup. This model has several serious photographers who are high on it and use it regularly. It was their photos that sealed my interest in it for a starter camera.

Strobist and Zackarias for starters:

Strobist: In-Depth: The New Fujifilm X100s

http://zackarias.com/for-photographe...ks-into-a-bar/

[mikeSF]

Actually I only went to KR for help in setup. This model has several serious photographers who are high on it and use it regularly. It was their photos that sealed my interest in it for a starter camera.

Strobist and Zackarias for starters:

Strobist: In-Depth: The New Fujifilm X100s

Fuji x100s Review :: A Camera Walks Into A Bar ? Photography By Zack Arias ? ATL ? 404-939-2263 ? [email protected]

those are great reviews. you're gonna have fun.