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hello my friends
i have a ES335 and i have sharp notes under the 12th fret on G string
Both saddles on the G and B string...are on the limit,,,no more adjustment room
Do you know why is this ?
My setup is ok...5/64 low E 4/64 high E
and the nut height 0.010 at high E , 0.020 at Low E.
Fretdressed and recrowned,and almost straight truss rod
Do you think that i should by a new bridge like Gotoh, with a few extra mm for the saddle adjustment to get me in tune.
Is that common problem on that guitars ? Es335
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04-04-2015 03:03 AM
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You mean you can't properly intonate? Just to be sure: are your strings not too old? On my ES-333 the high E will always loose intonation after a few months of use.
If it's not that and you are really a few mm short for proper intonation than I hope it's not that your bridge placement is slightly off.... fixable by a luthier, but cumbersome. Did you measure the distance from top nut to bridge saddle?
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Can you post a picture of the bridge it might be possible to turn the saddles round.
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yes my strings are new
The B string is ok..but the saddle has no more adjustment room as you can see
The G string has no more adjustment room and its a little sharp under 12th fret
i am not sure if i can turn the saddles round because of the string position ,it's not on the center of the saddle
Last edited by jkstigma; 04-04-2015 at 05:27 AM.
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The positions of the saddles in relation to each other look totally wrong to me....
Usually the lower (bigger) strings need to be adjusted further back and the higher strings further forward.
Anyway: if the G string is a bit sharp you could try one that is a little lower in gauge
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yes i know what you mean, but that way i have good intonation to the rest of the strings. Do you thing that all the problem it's maybe because of a bad factory nut ?
I just try another bridge that i have, with more adjustment room(gotoh type) , and its works just fine,
the only problem is that i have to raise the tailpiece if i don't want the strings to touch the backside of the bridge,
cause gotoh are bigger than Abr1.
Any recommended bridge for gibson ES175 ?
Last edited by jkstigma; 04-04-2015 at 07:40 AM.
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I mentioned this just yesterday in another forum with another guitar...
is it possible your bridge it tilting or has shifted towards the bridge pickup?
What year 335?
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it's es335 2009'
anniversary 50
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I've had this issue on my '68 335. Good call!
Originally Posted by SamBooka
Looking at the photo, the saddle for the G string could be reversed and would gain a couple mm.
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You could reverse the saddle insert for the G string and file a new notch into it...
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mmm thats a good idea !
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Is it me on the break angle on the bridge on the high strings side seems not really steep ?
Might be the picture angle but maybe the bridge needs to be lower a bit on that side to give more angle.
But like Sam suggested that could be a tilted bridge, unfortunately not an uncommon thing on the ABR type where the posts screw directly into wood.
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I had the same issue with my new '09 335.
at the 2nd and 4th fret as well
I fixed that issue.
first of all, 335 and plain G aren't good friend, specially if you raise a little the action.
a wound G fixes the issue soon but if you love the plain G,
- check the neck straightness (truss-rod)
- set the action as low as you can before buzzing;
- reverse the bridge saddle and you earn a couple of mm;
- check the nut slot height (my luthier took a special pencil, an half cut one, and he drew a line on the nut with the pencil resting on the frets: the slot must go till the pencil line)
hope this could help;
for me, low action is impossible to play: I found my peace with an action a little higher than the factory one and with a custom string gauge: .012 .016 .023w .028 .038 .049 round wound
check among my youtube video the tone I can get (clean and overdrive)Last edited by gianluca; 04-04-2015 at 09:14 AM.
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Thanks for the help and for the information my friends,
this forum is the best,
Gianluca... i really like the plain G cause i like the bendings.
I cant go to lighter one cause its only...0.20
Really, can you bend your wound 0.23 G?
hmmmmm take a look here.....what do you think ? Is the angle of the bridge the right one ?
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The bridge posts seem to be bending forward. I don't have a 335 so I am not sure if that is the correct position but it would explain why you have run out of movement on the saddle.
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They should be straight. Though my older ES's tend to have a bit of forward "lean" (through age I expect (50 years old!)
Straight pins should sort out your "run out of intonation" issue. I wouldn't try to straighten the ones in it, certainly not while in the guitar as you're likely to loosen the route into the body. Either taken them out and straighten them (though they may bend back again over time), or probably the best solution, get a new pair of Gibson pins and replace the ones in it.
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Yes - looks like the bridge leans forward - especially in the first pic. With new posts here's another thing you can do: get a second set of thumbwheels and lock 'em down on the body - you'll get more stability that way.
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Obviously not. Originally Posted by jkstigma
hmmmmm take a look here.....what do you think ? Is the angle of the bridge the right one ?
An experienced guitar repairman with the right tool can fix this in 60 seconds and most probably won't even charge you.
YMMV.
HTH,
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No I can't bend with a .023. Originally Posted by jkstigma
but the heaviest plain G you can find in normal string set is the .018 coming with normal .011/.049 sets;
heavier sets, .012 or more, usually have a wound G.
anyway there is a D'addario .011 string set which comes with a .021 wound G that I believe is very comfortable to bend
about the picture of your bridge, maybe your stop tailpiece is too low and the tension on the TOM is higher than normal and this could cause that little forward tension we see...
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With the last picture, I think it is most likely a case of downward pressure caused by a screwed down TP and too much angle.
Sometimes it can make a bridge tilt, by bending posts on an ABR, on a Nashville bridge with metal insert the bridge itself will tend to take the plunge; happened on my SG I bought used, it even past my luthier's inspection...
no wonder the action was too high and string 3 and 4 constantly buzzing...
Collapsing bridge... | Everything SGLast edited by vinlander; 04-05-2015 at 10:23 PM. Reason: precision
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Dan Erlewine : "if the top pf your gibson's tallest bridge saddle is higher than 11/16 (44/64') to 3/4', then your bridge may collapse if you screw down the stopbar."
My tallest saddle is about 44/64' .Do you think i should raise the tailpiece a littleLast edited by jkstigma; 04-06-2015 at 11:45 PM.
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How deep are the slots on the high strings?
I have a 2010 50th anniversary 335 and the bridge slots were cut too deep at the factory. The bridge had to be adjusted high on the studs which, combined with a TP that was too low, caused the bridge to tilt forward and bend the studs. New bridge saddles, barely notched, allowed the bridge to be lowered. Raising the TP also helped stop the bridge from tilting.
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Gotoh Tune-o-matic Bridge with Studs/Bushings | stewmac.com
Using this bridge will not allow the same to happen again. Ever.
However, it's been my experience that most people with American instruments will not go for it, as they say: "it makes it look like an import".
HTH,
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in order to use that bridge ..i should open big halls in my baby's body !
Tell me something more,,,,if i replace my Abr1 with a gotoh or a tonepro or a nashville ... Can this affect the sound of the guitar? Cause i really like the way its sounds now
ps: Direct from Gibson...
Tailpiece Height:
Set the stopbar tailpiece low enough so the strings come off the tailpiece and up to the saddles on the bridge at the maximum angle without touching the back of the bridge. This is typically 2-3 threads showing the the tailpiece post.Last edited by jkstigma; 04-07-2015 at 01:31 AM.
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Yes changing the bridge can alter the tone a little. It's key in transferring the vibrations into the centre-block in an ES guitar. So its overall mass (weight) matters and it also matters what metal the bridge is made of and particularly what the saddles are made of. Underneath the nickel plate they could be brass or steel or some other pot metal, each will impart a slightly different flavour to your sound.
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