-
So long as handling noise is acceptable (most cables don't present a problem), the most important number to look for is capacitance.
Guitar Cable Capacitance Chart • Comparison of pF Ratings by SHOOTOUT! Guitar Cables UK
-
01-30-2017 04:36 PM
-
George L .225 for instrument and effects patch cables. No soldering, easy to assemble, easy to repair. I carry a coax cable cutter in my guitar bag.
-
For me the most important factors for guitar cables are low capacitance, handling (draping and coiling), shielding, ruggedness, connector quality, repairability, weight, bulk and cost. I use several cable brands, but the best balance of these factors for me is Canare GS-6 cable. Put a pair of high quality connectors on it (e.g., Switchcraft 280) and I'm good.
I also like Whirlwind Leader cables, but the strain relief on the connectors, while effective is kind of bulky and awkward.
I have a George-L cable, but I don't like how it drapes. Since it's thin and lightweight I pack it in my gig bag as a spare.
Next time I need a guitar cable, I'll probably make my own using Canare GS-6 cable and Switchcraft 280 connectors:
Darkling Designs Making Your Own Instrument Cables - Darkling DesignsLast edited by KirkP; 01-30-2017 at 05:28 PM.
-
Lava speaker cable : The Tephra Premier Series
-
Lava Clear Connect
-
-
Mogami for instrument cables and 16g lamp cord for speaker cables.
-
Not just theoretical - at least not with single coil PUs. If I forget to remove my cell phone from my trouser pocket, I definitely get noise (for example the phone's ping signals get picked up).
Originally Posted by viccortes285
As for instrument cables vs. speaker cables, Speakon connections on the speaker cables prevent confusion about which is which.Last edited by oldane; 01-31-2017 at 11:26 AM.
-
I have a couple of Monster cables that are going on 15 years old, I think. I mean, I think by this point I got my money's worth. Pretty quiet, even when I'm playing my tele through a tube amp in a room with old wiring... Originally Posted by Doctor Jeff
-
I use Fender's cheap cables. Inexpensive and the tweed material means it doesn't turn into the usual rubber noodle soup. Honestly, I don't think I can make out the difference in sound, if there is one. My tweed cables and my expensive cables sound exactly the same. Is it worth the time, let alone the 80 bucks?
-
A couple of things should be pointed out. If your high-frequency hearing is shot from long exposure to loud noise, you probably can't hear any difference between cables. If you roll your highs way off to get a really dark tone, you probably can't hear any differences between cables. But just because you can't, that doesn't mean no one else can, or that there are no differences. An oscilloscope plainly shows them. The bottom line, though, is that everyone is free to use whatever cable they prefer, for whatever reason.
-
I buy all of my cables (instrument, microphone, speaker, Neutrik, snake etc) through Conquestsound.com and have for YEARS
All Conquest Sound, made in the U.S.A., cables are manufactured to the tightest tolerances in the industryand carry a LIFETIME WARRANTY
I don't work for them, but am a huge fan.Last edited by Papawooly; 01-31-2017 at 01:38 PM.
-
A couple years ago Guitar Player did a big cable shootout a couple years ago, and it was interesting because they found there was no such thing as a "Best" cable because different cables worked better with different gear. But they did pick 8 or so "winners" that seemed to be standouts as sounding good in most instances or oherwise having some kind of mojo.
Among them were the George L's .255 and the Spectraflex Fatsoflex. The fatsoflex seemed to add some beefiness to guitars that needed a bit more bottom, and the George L's were a bit more transparent. I've used both for several years now, and I pick the right cable for the room, and sometimes change the cable if I need more or less fatness.
The big take-away, is that every guitar-cable-amp interaction is different. Hendrix benefited from the treble roll off of his coiled cables. Another guitar and amp combo would be muddy with such a cable.
-
I think the choice of a cable is a combination of taste and cost. I prefer the lowest capacitance available, but that comes at a price, so I tend to settle for something less, because of the law of diminishing returns and somewhat shallow pockets. George L cable is a good compromise for me. But I'm not everyone, so everyone is free to buy whatever works for them and their equipment.
-
Thanks to everyone who responded to my inquiry about the cable to connect amp and head.
Quite right, and about time I found it out!
The Boogie owner's manual didn't mention it, but the amp came with an unshielded cable which I assumed was for a footswitch, but which was probably for connecting the head and cabinet.
I emailed Mesa and got the same response. Don't use a guitar cable. Speaker cable is different.
Thanks!
-
I use a George L .225 most of the time. It's noiseless on stage, the plugs seem really solidly connected, and I iike the sound.
-
Cable length is also a factor. For instrument cables, the key parameter affecting tone is capacitance. Each cable type has a capacitance per unit length, so a cable that sounds fine at one length might start to lose highs when you double it.
For speaker cables, the key parameter is resistance, which is also proportional to length. That's why cable gauge must increase for longer speaker cable runs. Zip chord sounds as good as anything as long as it's of adequate gauge.
-
Speaker Cab: PLoYnk USA High quality low price: Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
Alchemy Audio Whisper Guitar Instrument Cable: High quality & low price USA
-
Just saw this video comparing 12 mostly premium cables. They definitely have different flavors.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Just different capacitance Originally Posted by blille
-
I've been making my own cables for years, sometimes mogami but usually canare L2TS (I think thats the model), Neutrik or Switchcraft jacks. I do have a couple aftermarket cables that weren't (to my mind) "cheap" but A-B-ing everything I've tried I see no reason to spend silly amounts on boutique cables. I don't do long cable runs though either.
-
I've got a few guitar leads - a 3 metre with Sommer Spirit SC cable and Neutrik jacks (bought from designacable.com in the UK), a 3 metre with Klotz AC110 and Neutrik jacks that I made myself. Then more recently I made up a couple (one at 3.5 metres, one at 4.5 metres) using Sommer LLX cable and Amphenol jacks which were aimed at getting the capacitance as low as possible. But all of these cables seem great regarding the sound, and also have excellent durability and reliability.
I think with a basic philosophy of using high-quality, low capacitance cable, and high quality jacks with good strain-relief system that grips the cable so it can't move inside the jack where the solder joints are, then that's got to make a good guitar lead.
I only use combo amps, so I don't need an amp/speaker lead.
-
I go to Markertek, and order the cables in the color and length that want, made with Canare cable and Neutrik connectors.
-
my favorite ones are vovox, worth it in terms of sound and shielding (no noise over floors where george ls for example had a lot when moving). I generally like the material of spectraflex, fender tweed etc, cause it stays clean. I also like and use canare and mogami cable. i stay clear of monster cable cause of company practices and non-standard plug size, and i 've found solderless cables to be not really dependable in the long run so no george ls anymore..
-
Monster Cables for instruments. They work for me.
Reply With Quote
Recommandations for Hollowbodies for $600 and under?
Today, 05:20 AM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos