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A "nicely chunky D" are probably not the words I needed to read in order to maintain marital bliss
Originally Posted by Socalbill
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02-20-2013 02:00 PM
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Yea, I was surprised it was that way, but the combination of the 20 inch radius, low action and the thicker neck works fine for me. I'm used to the thinner neck on my Eastmans, but this works too. Go figure.
Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
Bill
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You know, after my reply I got curious and measured both my Eastman El Rey and the Carvin HH at the first fret and they are about the same thickness, but the Carvin has just a bit more shoulder then the Eastman. I have always loved the neck on my El Rey, but really the Carvin is pretty nice too. Hope that clarifies my statement.
Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
Bill
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I own a Carvin HF2 and it's an amazing guitar, now that i think about it, the HH2 looks amazing.
Jim, what kind of woods would you go for it??
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Probably stock, possibly some mahogany.
EDIT: one change for sure would be a rosewood fingerboard. I have a feeling this thing is already bright enough without having an ebony board.
EDIT #2: I just ran through their build/pricing ap. I'd forgotten about their "sale" on options. Doing a mahogany body and top didn't change the price at all, so that would probably be my choice along with a maple neck and rosewood board.Last edited by Jim Soloway; 02-20-2013 at 05:44 PM.
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If you can be patient, Carvin often seems to run sales in which "options" are reduced 50%. Just keep checking their site or sign up on the mailing list.
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I just called them again this afternoon and got a bit of a disappointing answer. Apparently the case is just a shorter version of the standard G&G rectangular case. One of the real attractions of the guitar is its size but it the case is not reduced in size accordingly, then some of the benefit is lost.
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What are the benefits of a headless design?
Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
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The most obvious are extreme light weight without much risk of head dive and vastly improved convenience for travel. The hard tail version of the HH2 is abut 5.5 lbs.
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Being a luthier ever thought of building something like the Traveler or Framework guitars?
Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
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Many times and if I thought I was going to keep going for several more years, I'd probably do it.
Originally Posted by docbop
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Light weight is nice, but balance is what I really look for in a guitar. Don't you run the risk of having a guitar that is body heavy?
Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
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Body heavy? That really doesn't happen. I mean, we aren't talking about a 10 lb body and a 1 lb neck. The neck just lacks a headstock and tuners. The bodies of these headless instruments are always smallish, and some are chambered in addition, so that phenomenon simply doesn't happen.
I have owned 5 headless guitars, and every one has been well balanced.
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My new HH2 has been pretty much strapped to my chest since I got it home, and it is remarkably comfortable and balanced. The two strap buttons at the base give you some interesting options for balance front to back as well. You can really take both hands off the guitar and it will stay where you had it. I'm liking this one a lot.
Bill
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Not to beat to death an old thread but without a headstock and a shorter string "after length" does this Carvin have more string tension than you'd expect? It may be coincidental but the headless guitars I've played have all had a tighter feel to the strings - playing 11s felt like 12s or 13s...
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My Steinie GM7SA feels so loose that I can't really explain it.
Originally Posted by Rustic
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Isn't that more a product of scale length than string length past the nut?
Originally Posted by Rustic
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In theory, the extra lenght of string past the nut should make the fretting feel a bit more slack, provided there's no friction at the nut - but there is. Besides the length of string past the nut is much shorter than the vibrating string length, so IMHO I don't think I would be able to feel any significant difference. The scale length means more as you writes. The same has been claimed for the length of string between the bridge and tailpiece. That was the rationale of the Frequensator tailpiece of Epiphone giutars, but I'll be darned if anyone can feel any difference between a Frequensator tailpiece and a normal one - and if they can, I'd say it's "placebo". I also read somewheree that Epiphone themselves realized that but they stuck with the Frequensator design because it had by then become an easily recognizable brand characteristic, something people could see from a distance long before they could see the logo on the headstock.
Originally Posted by docbop
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Jim, have you ever tried an older Parker? I just sold all my PRS guitars, but the one guitar I will never sell is my Parker Nightfly M, equipped with Suhr pickups. It weighs in at under 6lbs and plays and sounds fantastic with the full carbon fretboard. I can get a beautiful woody jazz tone, screaming blues or even Hendrix with the coil split or metal depending on my amp settings (Mesa). I'm looking for an earlier Fly at the moment.
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I have but you know, I have two guitars for myself underway and my own instruments always come last after customers. It's almost like clockwork that when I know I have something in the works I get bored and start looking at a guitar to buy. Last year I ended up actually buying a couple archtops. I don't think either of them lasted more than a week or two. Probably what I should do is just put away the credit cards and wait to see how my two new guitars turn out.
Originally Posted by krusty
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Going back to the original comment: $100 to not install a pickup. I was looking at something similar. G&L has lots of lcustom options. Left-handed guitars are a no cost option, which is cool, but getting a reversed headstock -- which seems to be half way there -- is a $200 option. I guess you can't demand logic.



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