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I agree. I've never bought a guitar as an investment and I'm not sure that most affordable instruments fall into this category anyway. Probably anything that is already known as an investment model will already have an inflated market price. But I have bought a couple of fairly expensive custom instruments that I loved at first and later decided weren't right for me. The resale value on both wasn't that good, compared to production line guitars I've sold which held their value better. ymmv ...
Originally Posted by oldane
Last edited by Bill C; 07-04-2011 at 12:36 PM.
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07-04-2011 12:34 PM
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I live in Denmark, and I bought the body and neck for my partscaster from Warmoth. It was a no hassle operation. They sent me what I ordered at the scheduled time and at the quoted price. You are already aware that you must add imports duty and then add VAT on top of that.
Originally Posted by Meggy
I have bought via the internet from US numerous times and I am a returning customer at Steward MacDonald. The US web shops I have dealt with have not let me down.
I bought the pickup assembly with pickup and pots from Pete Biltoft (great guy, great pickups, very helpful, fair prices, fast delivery, highly recommended) and the rest of the parts from Stewart MacDonald. There wasn't anything to save by buying locally in Denmark.
When buying both neck and body from Warmoth they are guarateed to fit and match well. If not, you can return them.
BTW, I buy most of my strings, picks, pedals, headphones, recorders etc. from Thoman in Germany. They have everything you'll ever need apart from custom products. They may not be cheaper than US web shops, but they are inside the EU, so delivery is much faster.
Somewhat OT: Denmark is a small country, and often there is a lack of market competion which can be felt by the customers. In fact, I more often than not buy via the internet from outside Denmark. The service is better than Danish web shops (which can be really lousy Randy Ripoffs), delivery faster, and often the price is better too. For example I buy most of my photography gear from Ffordes in Scotland. Their Nikon lens prices are 15% cheaper than in Denmark, and they have a large selection of used gear at good prices.
In short: Don't be afraid to buy from well reputed webshops in US and Germany. The ones I have mentioned are well reputed, but there are others as well.
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Apologies teleman - I missed your reply somehow before. Cheers for the feedback on things though - and I will check out USACG, also mentioned by Bill C below, so they must be good! And I will take you advice re the gold hardware. I actually kind of think it's OTT myself, but I don't care - I just like it! so why not.
Originally Posted by teleman3726
They do sound like serious contenders, cheers Bill, I'm checking them out online.
Originally Posted by Bill C
Many thanks for all these thoughts oldane, its really useful information for me, and I appreciate your taking the time to post. Biltoft for the pickups is a very good idea I think.
Originally Posted by oldane
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I have a Tele that looks just like that a special edition from Guitar Center I left it stock and mine works grate it has alinco 5 pickups Tex Mex which are hot some say bright but I really like the tone.
The tone control work grate it's just a little heavy about 8 1/2 pounds ,but I think it adds to the tone for jazz.
Right now it's my # 1 over my Hofner very thin classic (Germany).
This guitar is very vocal sounding if that helps.
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I have a USACG/Allparts Tele clone & all I can say is GO OFR IT. It is a fun & frustrating experience, & ultimately rewarding.
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Originally Posted by bluemood
Thanks for the replies guys! bluemood, what you say fits with some of my thoughts on this. I can get a natural finish ash body (not swamp ash) plus suitable neck from a UK supplier which would give me the look I like. I have been a bit worried that this might not give me the best sound though, because the body is pretty heavy, weighing 6.6 lbs - so probably the whole guitar would be similar weight to yours. So I worry it might not sound very "acoustic" - more like a Les Paul, with lots of sustain, but a bit unresponsive maybe. But from what you say, it might be good. I admit I'm not massively experienced about the effect of different body woods on electric guitar tone.
Originally Posted by Dark Star
Also, I have been thinking about getting some slightly hotter pickups, so interested in what you say about the Tex Mex pickups in your tele. Is there any chance of posting a picture?
Dark Star, the encouragement is much appreciated, and I do think I'm going to go ahead with this project, once I have figured out the parts I want, and where to get them. I'm good with guitar electronics, having changed pickups and circuitry in 3 other guitars. So it's just stuff like drilling holes in the right places I need to learn, I figure I should be up to the task with the right attitude.
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Meggy - A chambered body would (obviously!) reduce weight and tend to give a hint of acoustic flavour. There's been some discussion over the years about tele body woods at rec.music.makers.guitar.jazz with at least one highly respected poster favouring alder. This might be of interest too ...
USACG - Body Woods
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A Tele and Jazz is like salt and pepper - two different flavors that just go together...
It took me a lot of guitars to get to the one thats never gonna leave - which is why i dont think about resale value. I'm a believer that great guitars can cost hundreds and not have to cost thousands. It took some modding to get it just right. I intentially don't purchase the high end - i think there are great parts that dont have to be the highest price.
I started with a G&L ASAT Classic Tribute - semi-hollow swamp ash, nice-n-light ($400 on ebay), Bill Lawrence Keystone Pickups ($72), Wilkinson bridge with compensated saddles ($28), 4 way switch, upgraded pots from RS Guitarworks ($30), Fender knobs ($8) Bone Nut ($6), Pickguard from Chandler ($50), StewMac Shielding ($21) Install from Colorado Guitar Company - Repair, Restoration & Sales ($100) - Total $715. I string it with 12's.
For me - its perfect. Tonally awesome, light, quiet and quality parts. A Fender amp makes it shine - I'm playing through a Princeton Chorus with a couple Eminence speakers - a Copperhead and a Rajin Cajun.
A tele in jazz - go for it!
Here's a couple pics...Last edited by kromezone; 07-05-2011 at 10:41 AM.
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Building a partscaster is a good way to get exactly what YOU want; there are so many people that have an almost religious belief about what is and what is not a "real" tele. Check out another excellent site, tdpri.com and you will see what I mean.
I also suggest you look at :Wilde Bill's Keystones. Bill Lawrence is a ledgend in pickup design and engineering. Don't let the cheap price throw you, excellent PUs at any price.
As far as resale value is concerned, anything under $1,000 USD probably wont appreciate much so that's not really an issue IMHO.Last edited by Hekim; 07-07-2011 at 08:48 AM.
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Partscasters are worthy ventures for sure. Never made one myself, but two out of three of my favorite ever teles were made from parts by others. Swamp ash body works well for me. Another superior choice, but good luck finding one, is chambered ash body with a spruce top. (A Chandler body of this type is on one of those favorite partscasters.) Had great luck with old style 3 barrel saddle/bridge setups, preferrably from Glendale. Another interesting choice is the high tech Babicz bridge. One came to me on favorite partscaster two:

Height and intonation can be precisely controlled. At first a little offputting, as it changes right-hand damping position. But sounds and feels so nice, that's quickly forgotten.
MD
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Thanks for the encouragement, I appreciate it. I'm not so worried about if my guitar will be a "real" tele or not, but it will be my tele, which is important to me. Will look at tdpri.com though, and love the Bill Lawrence suggestion - not sure where I will go on the pickups yet, but their stuff is certainly very fine, and has it's own identity and individuality, which I appreciate.
Originally Posted by Hekim
Probably am going for the swamp ash at this stage, I have had some very helpful and encouraging communication with Phil at guitarbuild.co.uk so this is looking to be the likely source for both the body and neck. He is able to pick out a nice lightweight body for me which is great. He would probably be able to do chambered ash with spruce top come to that. I'm planning to finish the body in Danish oil (or tung oil) and use gun stock oil on the neck. Like the look of that bridge - I'll see what I can find about them. However, at this stage I'm probably looking at something like the Wilkinson compensated, which is economic, and I've heard good things about the sound with these. Thanks for your thoughts though, and the nice picture, cheers!
Originally Posted by mad dog
A question for anyone with a Wilkinson compensated bridge: can it be adapted to give good intonation when using a wound 3rd string? I think I might wish to use quite heavy strings on the tele, so would be good to know.
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Meggy:
The spruce top and chambering makes for a uniquely voiced - and versatile - guitar. That plus low wind, vintage style p/us (I highly recommend various models from Don Mare) gives you a beautiful clarity and resonance.
Forgot to mention the p/us in my blond partscaster. By Tom Short. The bridge p/u is a conventional single coil. The neck is a minihumbucker, only in a full-size housing. Called an "undercover mini." One of the best sounding p/us I've heard anywhere. No mud. Everything I like about humbuckers, with no drawbacks.
MD
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I had 12's with a wound third and the Wilkinson bridge on my Tele. It did also have a compensated nut. Intonation was incredibly good.
Originally Posted by Meggy
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Here is a pic you requested attached.
Originally Posted by Meggy
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Well I'll at least think about the chambering for a few days before making a decision! It does sound nice for a certain kind of sound I admit. I was perhaps thinking of something a little more "earthy", while still keeping the resonance - so maybe slightly hotter pickups (I like the Tonerider Hot Classics set). Not heard of Don Mare but I will check him out - there seems to be so much good stuff out there if you know where to look. Know what you mean about the mud with conventional humbuckers, I have found this too sometimes - example: I installed an extra floating Kent Armstrong mini humbucker on my Ibanez JP20 archtop, and now find the original humbucker just never gets used.
Originally Posted by mad dog
Good to know Bill, thank you. Are you able to flip over the middle bridge saddle on the Wilkinson bridge to make it slope the other way? I'm assuming this is how it works with a wound 3rd to get good intonation.
Originally Posted by Bill C
Many thanks for that bluemood - wow, that tele really is close to the appearance I'm going for (except for my possibly OTT bling gold hardware that I feel compelled to use for some reason!
Originally Posted by bluemood
). But nice to see how the look will work before going ahead. Cheers!
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I not a fan of fancy gold hardware on tele, but it would also look grate .
I like mine to look like I threw it under a bus picked it up tuned it and played.
mines not there yet .
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I admit I have wondered a bit about the idea for gold hardware, but tasteless or not, for some reason I like it, so I guess it must reflect some aspect of my personality!
Originally Posted by bluemood
Please don't throw your tele under a bus though, it looks just great to me.
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I think there are two models of this bridge. The Wilkinson Compensated Saddle Tele Bridge and the Wilkinson Compensated Adjustable Saddle Tele Bridge
Originally Posted by Meggy
The bridge I had was adjustable - I think the one on the StewMac site. I no longer have the guitar so can't check. As I recall each saddle pivots via a central bolt, so can be aligned diagonally.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...ctures#details
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...ctions#details
The guy who built it up for me has his own compensated nut solution which he recommended and I went for. The end result was excellent intonation.Last edited by Bill C; 07-08-2011 at 01:49 AM. Reason: added URLs
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Thank you Bill, much appreciated, and that alerts me to the different Wilkinson bridges out there. The one I had been looking at has non-tilting saddles with a pre-cut diagonal shape allowing better intonation. Not quite so adjustable, but still gives better intonation than a standard tele bridge. I still quite like this design, and it turns out you can buy spare saddles sloping either way, so I could make it work for a wound third string. But will see if I can source an adjustable one in the UK anyway if it doesn't add too much to the cost.
Originally Posted by Bill C
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I think my bridge came from Allparts UK - they seem to have a good selection of Tele-style bridges.
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Cheers Bill, I'll be giving the issue of possible bridge types some thoght over the weekend prior to ordering bits next week, so best to be informed about what's available.
Originally Posted by Bill C
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Meggy - make sure your body is drilled for the type of bridge you choose. I seem to remember when I did this that there were different drillings for modern and vintage style bridges(?). Someone correct me if this is wrong.
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No, you are absolutely right Bill, I just found this out myself. Vintage tele spacing seems to be 2 1/8 inches, and most of the more modern style bridges have 2 3/16. And for all I know there may be other spacings used as well.
Originally Posted by Bill C
But it helps me make up my mind, as I prefer a narrower spacing, so another reason to go vintage style on the bridge. And I will make sure the guitar body is drilled accordingly for the through-body stringing.
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I have the bridge you are thinking about. I use 12's with a wound G. I don't have any intonation problems in the standard setup.
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I'm building one now. The body is black walnut, the neck will be all maple.
The setup is old skool tele. Ashtray three saddle bridge, Fender original vintage tele pickups, etc.
The upside is you can get exactly what you want.
The downside is, you'll never get your money back if you sell. Hopefully, this one's a keeper.
EG



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