The occasional Archtops and 10s question

[Palehorseo]

Apologies if this has come up before, I’ve searched and not quite found an answer.

I have early onset arthritis in both thumbs - have found that lighter strings make a huge difference, and I can comfortably play my tele with 10s.

Tried putting 10s on my archtop, an inexpensive Ibanez, adjusted truss rod accordingly but still had a bit of a sloppy, buzzy nightmare (buzz from frets and tailpiece…). I could try getting the frets levelled but before I start throwing money at a cheap-ish guiatr I’m seeking advice whether (as some threads seem to suggest) 10s is just too light for an archtop. Is there anything I can do with setup or even guitar choice that would help?

For my practice being able to play acoustically is extremely helpful and I love the hollow body sound. Are there other models I should look at? The Ibanez tailpiece feels a bit flimsy and I wonder if that doesn’t help.

[Rickco]

you need a good setup. Doesnt matter what type of guitar it is. You need a good tech to sight the neck and make a recommendation, if its beyond hope then look for a new guitar. You can get something very playable for low money nowadays. Set up is every thing, nut, bridge etc then you should have no problems with"10s"

[Stringswinger]

I have run 10's on one of my Gibson ES-175 guitars with very good results. You need an adjustable saddle bridge with a plain 3rd and it is easier on the hands for sure.

A good tech can get you where you need to be, but be forewarned that you might need to purchase a new bridge saddle.

[Palehorseo]

Thanks folks, I called a guitar tech this morn so will see what he says.

It’s much appreciated

[gianluca]

I switched to 10s roundwound for a while on my 175 with outstanding result: very alive and still full and woody…

[mikeSF]

for laminate archtops, any gauge is fine. Heavier string gauge is more of a thing to properly "drive" a fully carved top for acoustic volume. Anything short of that not be a problem.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Doctor Jeff]

If you're like me and you roll the tone down ala Jim Hall, you don't need no stinkin' 14's or half-inch high action to get the sound you want. It's all gonna be dark and moist anyway.

I think we obsess too much about certain details. By "we", I mean, 98% of guitarists. If you're Pat or Sco or John M it's understandable.

But the average dude--it's all in your hands. Play what feels comfortable to you.

I use 11's on most of my guitars except my 135 has TI 12's, which are lower tension. Which is a good point--TI's are supposed to be lower tension for the same string gauge. So maybe TI 11's or 12's would work for you.

[Cunamara]

Jim Hall used 10's. What is probably happening here is that the lower string tension has resulted in too little relief or even a backbow on the neck. Adjusting the truss rod a little looser might solve it.

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

ITI's are supposed to be lower tension for the same string gauge. So maybe TI 11's or 12's would work for you.

TI strings have less tension than other flats in part because they’re not the exact same size despite the named diameters. If you compare sizes on string charts, you’ll see that TIs are slightly thinner than others with the same nominal size because they use a European measuring system.

[Palehorseo]

Thanks folks, I really appreciate all the input. The Ibanez is with the tech now and will get a setup and fret level. Hopefully will do the trick but this thread gives me confidence

[Herbie]

The scale of the guitar makes huge difference to the feel of the strings. Tele- and stratocasters have a 25.5" scale and if the scale of Your Ibby is in the Gibson ES-175 (or Les Paul) category, it is about 24.75". The rule of thumb says that .010 set in Fender scale guitar feels like .011 in LP scale guitar.

I have always wondered when people say that "the xxx is a versatile guitar, I just chance the strings from fat flats to thin rounds to move from jazz to rock". In my experience the change takes at least a) moving the bridge up / down, b) usually changing the bridge, c) re-adjusting the neck and d) re-adjusting the intonation. Not so versatile.

But someday I have to try thin roundwounds in my two gorgeous ES-175s (one with humbucker and one with P90s). Maybe I could get rid of my solid "rock" guitars and go on with just two guitars, just changing the strings, the bridge, the intonation etc....

[pingu]

1282457[/URL]]The scale of the guitar makes huge difference to the feel of the strings. Tele- and stratocasters have a 25.5" scale and if the scale of Your Ibby is in the Gibson ES-175 (or Les Paul) category, it is about 24.75". The rule of thumb says that .010 set in Fender scale guitar feels like .011 in LP scale guitar.

I have always wondered when people say that "the xxx is a versatile guitar, I just chance the strings from fat flats to thin rounds to move from jazz to rock". In my experience the change takes at least a) moving the bridge up / down, b) usually changing the bridge, c) re-adjusting the neck and d) re-adjusting the intonation. Not so versatile.

But someday I have to try thin roundwounds in my two gorgeous ES-175s (one with humbucker and one with P90s). Maybe I could get rid of my solid "rock" guitars and go on with just two guitars, just changing the strings, the bridge, the intonation etc....

i agree , I have to set a guitar up
for a given gauge of strings ….
then leave it like that

it’s just too much faffing about otherwise as you say ….

i’m in the process of setting my
new tele up with TI 12 flats
Its a bit of a drag taking off the scratch plate everytime you need to tweak the truss rod !
but I’m almost done now ….

Once it’s settled down I’m gonna
leave it like that !

[pingu]

P.S. i seem to have adjusted to
fender scale length ok

i thought it might be an issue because I had a strat type that I
didnt get along with at all
but I don’t really notice much difference on the tele