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That link works for me. Mouser is still in business, has been for as long as I can remember.
Originally Posted by jzucker
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03-13-2023 02:26 PM
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doesn't work here. Tried it on a couple browsers and also my cell network. "Site is unavailable" Originally Posted by sgosnell
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You want either the 220 (black) or the 225 (red) 90 degree screw terminal plug, Jack. You can buy directly from the Switchcraft website (switchcraft.com). But you'll have to use smaller caps than the 400V ones I used in that comparison. A guitar signal is less than half a volt, so you don't need anything bigger than that. Originally Posted by jzucker
I settled on 0.22 uF for my Superblock through my Toob Metro and 0.15 for my 10" Toob.
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thanks! Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
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You posted a response before I caught my error - it's edited corectly now. I use a 0.22 uF for the Metro and a 0.15 for the 10". YMMV. Originally Posted by jzucker
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Thanks for taking the time to do this. Having established that the loop is a good place for the low pass filter I would probably get something like a Source Audio EQ2 and put that in the loop for some wild adjustment. I have one in front of my amp. I will try it in the loop!
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Thanks for this!
I am very happy with my Superblock US, done a couple of studio sessions with it already (check here: (124) Shepperd Street Sessions - YouTube
) but yes, there is some brightness I'd like to control.
I should have enough caps and jack plugs laying around so I'll definitely try this!Last edited by Little Jay; 05-03-2023 at 07:47 AM.
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Your EQ pedal will affect tone differently when inserted into the loop (which may be good or bad, depending on what you want and like). At the input, your EQ will affect the signal through all preamp stages. There's a lot of adjustable coloration in the front end of a Superblock, and your EQ pedal will affect all of it at the input. The signal goes through the voice circuitry, adjustable gain stage, and the Superblock's EQ before it reaches the loop. At the input, you'll already have applied EQ to it before it reaches them. This will probably change the 3 voices in different ways. But if you insert it into the loop, those functions will already have been applied before EQ - so you may be "undoing" or otherwise altering them. The general recommendation for EQ pedals is to use them at the input of any amp because of the above. It won't hurt to try it, but I suspect the voicings will be a bit different - so you'll have to see which you prefer. Originally Posted by Rograt
Capacitors are inherently high pass filters. Bridging the signal to ground through a cap bleeds highs out of the signal. By removing highs from the signal, the effect is as though a low pass filter had been inserted into the signal path. The frequency at which flow through a capacitor begins goes down as the capacitance value goes up. So tone gets darker as the bypass cap gets bigger. If you insert a capacitor into the signal lead, tone will get brighter because it will block lows. The capacitance in a cable is also a bridge to ground because it's between the signal lead at the center and the grounded shield wrapped around it. This is why long standard cables darken tone.
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Thank you for the awesome information in this thread to those who have posted. While I really like the SBUS, you can count me in that it's bright. I set my treble knob at 9:00 while also boosting both the mid and bass knobs a bit. Might give this a try. I leaned towards the 0.33mf clip myself. To those who do this, do you find you can set your SBUS treble knob up a bit more than before?
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what is sbus?
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Super Block United States. Compare to Super Block United Kingdom. SBUK
I don't have one but I use the capacitor in my ToneBlock 202, and I do have the treble up higher than I used to.
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I do not. I’ve been using the 0.33 uF since the OP and am very happy with the sound of both my archtops and solids through it into my Toobs. For jazz, I leave treble & mid flat with bass flat through he RevSound 8, bass @ 1 o’clock through the Metro and bass @ 11 through the RE 10. Originally Posted by monkmiles
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Those SS mini-heads are clever for light travel and studio work or as a low noise back-up solution that accepts both 8 and 16 ohms guitar speakers. Great.
There's a variety of brands and models and they always come with a headphone jack for silent practicing...
-What's the general verdict on the Superblock headphone out?
(Hypothetically, the headphone jack could also connect to desktop computer monitors or line out to a mixer or a sound card/recording device. This may or may not be a good idea depending on the implementation of the headphone interface and its speaker simulation and EQ.
A headphone out jack is not a neutral "line-out", it's equalized to sound "good" through headphones. As "good" in this context is subjective it's crucial that the tone shaping controls of the amp are in full control also of the headphone signal. For example; If the headphone out jack implementation got a deep hi-fi oriented mid scoop, it may not be possible to recover those mids by tweaking the amp controls and the guitar tone comes out thin, which is often perceived by the user as too bright...
It should be noted that some users don't even own a guitar cab and that it's possible to make a Youtube "demo" by lining out from the headphone jack...
We can change the sound of the rig by plugging in different guitar speakers, but the basic headphone signal can't be changed, It is what it is by design, unlike a modeler that got a selection of cab simulations. If someone is using a proper guitar cab but still finds there's too much treble that can't be tamed by using the controls of the guitar and amp, then I think the standard recipe would be to first try a longer, high capacitance instrument cable.)
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The SB’s “headphone” output is more than that - it’s an unbalanced line out with enough voltage to drive most headphones. It won’t drive true low impedance ‘phones, but it’s enough for my 62 Ohm AKG Q701s. It’s after the master volume and the cab sim switch as well as all other controls. It’s not “equalized to sound good through headphones”. It gets the same signal that comes out of the XLR line out - the only difference is in the electrical parameters of that signal, which are optimized for driving unbalanced headphones and balanced line inputs. Originally Posted by JCat
The headphone jack sounds great through my AKGs and my Sony MDRs. On FRFR, it’s flat and uncolored, aka “hifi”, which is good for most acoustic guitars but not for electric jazz tones from archtops. All controls are functional to shape the sound. I haven’t tried recording from it because my recording setup has XLR inputs.
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OK, thanks, Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
So the Superblock actually got a cab simulation switch....
-Is this feature only enabled when there's no guitar speaker plugged in? If so, it wouldn't be a regular bright-switch (Brt/Norm) but rather a simulation of a bright and a less bright speaker?
-What speaker is it supposed to simulate? a generic Jensen in a closed (norm) or open cab (Brt)?
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It's not an impulse response. My understanding is that it's more of a low pass eq Originally Posted by JCat
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The manual is on the Quilter site (here). The cab sim switch only affects the two line outs and is independent of speaker use. It’s not just a normal-bright switch (I.e. simple EQ), but the sonic effect includes a brighter sound. Originally Posted by JCat
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Thanks, Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
The manual says "norm" = 12" speaker and "Brt" = smaller speaker. So appearantly they did something to the headphone signal to make it "sound good".
I have not had the opportunity to plug into a Superblock, but I have experience with other mini heads and modelers that got too much bass in the headphones out, resulting in a scooped, thin tone. (I mostly use AKG open backs).
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That’s not my experience with the SBUS through my AKG Q701s. With the cab switch on normal, my archtops sound fantastic. My jumbo flattop with piezo sounds like itself with cab on bright, more so on FRFR, and more dreadnought-y on normal. Originally Posted by JCat
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I just wanted to say thank You to Nevershouldhavesoldit for posting this. ALso than you for the advice.
I grabbed the non solder plugs and a cap kit of various values.
Thus far it has made a world of difference. Im not settled on what values I will use. I found anything less the the 47nf to be too small of a difference. Im playing an Eastman 810ce with a single coil armstrong on the Dearmond setting. So off the bat the guitar is bright and so is the Quilter.
The 47 sounds very natural but still a bit twangy. A 100 nf is nice and thunky but maybe just a little too far from the natural roundwound tone I like. I even doubled them up and made a 200...boy is that dark! I made one that was 62. So far I think that is the ticket. Time will tell.
This trick (if not overdone) maintains natural coloration and lets me put my amp closer to neutral on the EQ settings with the guitar controls wide open. In my brain that is helpful because now I can make small vs huge adjustments that sometimes kill the rest of the tone to correct for one spectrum.
If you have a SBUS and find it bright this method is hard to beat and for less than 20 bucks.
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I briefly had a Quilter 101R and put together one of these. It took an amp that I wouldn't have wanted to keep because it was just too bright down to where I thought it sounded really, really good simply by putting a .047 into the circuit. For my ears, the .047 worked well although I didn't try other values.
I didn't keep the Quilter because it just didn't have enough oomph through my speaker; I ended up (also thanks to Dave a.k.a. nevershouldhavesoldit) with a DV Mark EG 250 Raw Dawg head which gives me just the sound I want through my TOOB Metro BG+. But the Quilter sounded great!
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Cunamara, Im just taking a guess but My setup with a 72 is probably close to what you got with the 047. Im putting a lot of brightness into that already bright amp. There is a lot to tame. At lest my initial thoughts are the 047 remains too bright given its an Eastman and a a single coil pickup.
After a couple of days Im finding that the 072 is the sweet spot for my setup for a signal that sounds open and natural. It still sounds natural with a little added weight. The twang on the E string is tamed and overall its less "stringy" sounding. Its clear they are still round wounds but its balanced nicely
A .104 is useful. It starts to drop the seutp into DV territory with more weight and thunk. Less roundwound resonance also. Its still clear enough for chord work.
.208 is a pair of caps. Its really dark and chords want to get muddy. However, its actually very nice on the 61 Quilter setting. It tames the excessive treble and adds some nice weight. It remains much less colored than the other two settings. A large does of caps makes it usable. I will spend more time exploring that combo.
Its definitely worth buying a set of caps so you can experiment with a range of values.
Overall Im likeing the Quilter with the Caps more than the DV (at least today). At lower volumes the DV sometimes sounds a bit small and boxy (too focused). The Quilter is wider and seems to fill the space more. With the right caps it can behave more like the DV (more weight) but with a wider sound.
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Dampening a carved top for thunk I think
Today, 04:49 PM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos