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  1. #1

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    One of my guitars has side dot markers which are not contrasting enough against the white binding in certain playing situations. I tried to solve the problem by sticking Jockomo markers over them Jockomo 1/8"Side Dot Fret Markers BP – Thomann Switzerland . While these black markers do solve the problem temporarily, they unfortunately don't last long. They have the tendency to move around and break soon when the guitar is in regular use, e.g. "the glue layer" separating from what appears to be a black paperlike layer.

    Would anyone know of a similar product which lasts longer?

    PS: I wouldn't want to replace the original markers and therefore reduce the value of the instrument .....

    TIA

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  3. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    Would anyone know of a similar product which lasts longer?
    Similar? No. I would color some beeswax with oil paint (by melting it) and apply it. It will come off, but you can just apply more. A more permanent solution which would probably not damage the finish too badly (test first!) would be wood filler in the form of a stick of colored shellac.

    Sorry if you don't think this is helpful, but the best solution is to learn to play without fret markers. I learned to play a classical guitar with no fret markers of any kind. Is it easy? Not really. Am I 100% accurate at all times? No. Is it worthwhile? In my opinion, yes. Can I play without looking at my hands most of the time? Yes.

  4. #3

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    It doesn't have to be beeswax, it could be paraffin or soy wax. Carnauba wax would be too brittle and is too hard to melt. You can buy wax that's already colored, unless you already have oil paint (artists' oil paint in tubes). Search for "encaustic" for suppliers of materials. Or just ask me and I'll tell you, if you're interested.

    I only know one supplier of wood filler in the form of shellac sticks. I ordered some a couple of months ago. I can look it up, if you're interested.

    Both suppliers are in Germany.

    You used to be able to buy paraffin in the supermarket, but now I can only find it at the supplier for encaustic painting.

  5. #4

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  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Laurence Finston
    Similar?..... but the best solution is to learn to play without fret markers. I learned to play a classical guitar with no fret markers of any kind. Is it easy? Not really. Am I 100% accurate at all times? No. Is it worthwhile? In my opinion, yes. Can I play without looking at my hands most of the time? Yes.
    Thanks Laurence - i usually play without looking at my hands most of the time, but the markers are important for those few moments when i need to look at them. Situations where i need to be 100% accurate DO EXIST and i don't want to mess these up ;-).
    Last edited by JazzNote; 01-03-2023 at 09:54 AM.

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Laurence Finston
    Similar? No. I would color some beeswax with oil paint (by melting it) and apply it. It will come off, but you can just apply more. A more permanent solution which would probably not damage the finish too badly (test first!) would be wood filler in the form of a stick of colored shellac.

    Sorry if you don't think this is helpful, but the best solution is to learn to play without fret markers. I learned to play a classical guitar with no fret markers of any kind. Is it easy? Not really. Am I 100% accurate at all times? No. Is it worthwhile? In my opinion, yes. Can I play without looking at my hands most of the time? Yes.
    Only play classical very occasionally. Ive put tippex (wite out?) dots on the side of the neck! Very rough but seems to last. It's a budget instrument.

  8. #7

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    Since you're in a country where they hide jewels inside of watches ... I don't think replacing the side dots with inlaid precious stones would devaluate the guitar

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    Thanks Laurence
    You're welcome. I should mention the question of toxicity with my solutions. Beeswax is entirely safe. Paraffin is probably safe. Oil paint is usually toxic, but in this case, you would only be using the paint and no turpentine or paint thinner. A high-quality paint like the Horadam line of Schmincke would almost certainly contain only linseed oil, possibly poppyseed oil and the pigment. The product info will state this. Shellac is also entirely safe. However, I don't know what they use for coloring or if there are any additives.

    Unfortunately, you cannot use water-based paints with hot wax. There are non-toxic watercolors, but it doesn't work.

    The upshot is, we're talking about tiny amounts. I wouldn't do this for a child's guitar or stick my fingers in my mouth after playing, but I would do it for myself, if I felt the need. I explicitly am not giving a recommendation to others.

    Situations where i need to be 100% accurate DO EXIST and i don't want to mess these up ;-).
    My nickname is "One Take" (that was a lie).

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    Since you're in a country where they hide jewels inside of watches ... I don't think replacing the side dots with inlaid precious stones would devaluate the guitar
    If i had the necessary funds to replace the side dots with jewels, i'd rather replace the guitar before anything else ;-).

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by garybaldy
    Ive put tippex (wite out?) dots on the side of the neck! Very rough but seems to last.
    Do they still make that stuff? I believe it was acetone-based, but I don't remember. I had a couple of bottles that dried up.

    It's a budget instrument.
    It is now (just kidding).

    I have Furch 5-string fretless acoustic bass and they put fret markers on the side of the fretboard (not the front, fortunately). I wish they hadn't but I'm certainly not going to remove them.

  12. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    side dot markers which are not contrasting enough against the white binding
    I'm guessing the white binding is some kind of plastic ivoroid, possibly with the side dots under a clear plastic strip (as on my Loar)?

    If so I'm guessing that many of the options mentioned above are problematic to apply in a way that will last much longer than your self-adhesive markers.

    Something that might work better and still be removable is a solution based on CA glue. I seem to recall having seen coloured versions, but the DIY solution would be to apply a tiny drop (apposed with the tip of a needle) and then sprinkle some ebony dust onto it. Finish off by buffing with a nail buffer.
    Or get some liquid UV resin of the sort used by "jewelry" makers; mix in the dye of choice, apply a droplet and cure using a UV light. That would be the safer way in case of spills.
    In both cases you should be able to remove the dot with a dry tap from something and in a way that won't mark the binding.

    But this would be a practicality improvement and I honestly fail to see why it would devalute the instrument if properly executed. It wouldn't be any different from replacing an original plastic nut with a bone one, IMHO.

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by garybaldy
    Only play classical very occasionally. Ive put tippex (wite out?) dots on the side of the neck! Very rough but seems to last. It's a budget instrument.
    the binding is white - so black would be the best option ....

  14. #13

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    An alternative to what I suggested would be either sealing wax or sealing laquer, which you can get a well-stocked stationary stores (Siegelwachs bzw. -lack). The wax is more likely to be available but it's much softer. The lacquer is shellac-based and dries and cools to a very hard material. There is never any product info, so who knows what else is in it. I ordered some sealing lacquer from a company in Austria a few weeks ago.

    Either of them might save some shipping costs.

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    the binding is white - so black would be the best option ....
    I was assuming white. I would just use some beeswax and grind some charcoal (from the art supply store, not the barbecue!) into it. Fertig!

  16. #15

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    If the binding is plastic, I would definitely not use shellac or sealing lacquer! Wax should be no problem. It might not stick, though. Sorry, didn't think of that.

  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    the binding is white - so black would be the best option ....
    Maybe this?
    Amazon.co.uk

  18. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    I'm guessing the white binding is some kind of plastic ivoroid, possibly with the side dots under a clear plastic strip (as on my Loar)?
    It's a Gibson. I do note know what kind of plastic the binding is made of, but binding & integrated dot markers are covered with nitrocellulose lacquer.

  19. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim777
    this link leads me to a clip called: THE WHEELS ON THE TRUCK RHYME WITH FRIENDS ON WHEELS THROUGH THE TOWN

    nothing in there points to anything related to side dot markers .......

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    It's a Gibson. I do note know what kind of plastic the binding is made of, but binding & integrated dot markers are covered with nitrocellulose lacquer.
    In that case CA glue would be a permanent fix, but the UV resin solution I suggested should be safe(r).

  21. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    In that case CA glue would be a permanent fix, but the UV resin solution I suggested should be safe(r).
    Thanks RJVB!

  22. #21

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    I remember taking a hand drill and using a small finishing nail as a bit, and drilling holes in the binding at those frets where I wanted a marker..........The depth was
    1/4 in. +/-.......Then I took a black magic marker and marked / filled in the holes. I seem to remember it working all right.

    But - that guitar was my first - -a $100. Greco, so - - ........

  23. #22

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    I’d use nail varnish ....

  24. #23

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    I’d go with Radium.
    Yea some side effects, but you get a seriously bright dot, and your teeth will fall out. Saves dental bills in the long run. So why not?

    (Radium Girls - Wikipedia)

  25. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by pingu
    I’d use nail varnish ....
    I’d think that would be pretty risky with a nitro finish.

  26. #25

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    Totally serious, I use a Sharpie.