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07-13-2022 08:28 PM
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I've seen the videos, but I have no first-hand experience. Stew-Mac is proud of their tools, and I can't justify the expense. If I did a lot of bridge fitting, I might try one, but I just do it carefully, just the bridge base and sandpaper. Without a jig of some type, there is a risk of rounding over the bottom if you're not careful.
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Stew Mac has some nice products, for example I bought their attachment for a Deoxit can to spray pots w out splatter and it works great but way too expensive as are most of their offerings. They need some competition imo.
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They have some. Luthier's Mercantile International http://llmii.com. They don't have quite the range of products that StewMac has, but they have decent quality stuff.
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btw, you could easily make a jig out of wood that will work as good as the SM but as noted if you're careful no need for a jig
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Oh, thats a good jig to make my own copy of. Erlewine is a true pro and there something about watching a skilled craftsman at work that really makes one forget about the world around you.
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My 2c...
I bought one and used it for my build. Agree with above that a lot of their stuff is over priced in addition to the bridge-fitting jig being not absolutely needed. It certainly is a nifty jig that makes the process a bit easier and quicker.
In general, I think they take pride in QC as they often go back to the R&D for their designs to ensure its maximized. Other + is their customer service... top notch.
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I have been tempted to buy one as I have had a need to do the bridge base fitting a few times, but I can't justify it. It would be great if it could also be used to fit pickup rings but it looks like it's specific for bridges.
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I thought the point of it was to keep the bridge 90 degrees to the top while sanding, not to round the corners or get tilt? Not needed for pickup rings?
Originally Posted by Bill Eisele
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True. But it seems like if you want to get a flush fit of the pickup ring base to an arched top without gaps and not having it move laterally while sanding something like this would help. Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
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It should work for pickup rings, but probably not perfectly. You can't really use it over the routs, but using it between them should work, or for a single pickup, just aft of the rout. No reason it shouldn't work, but I've never seen the need for it with plastic rings, they sand to shape quickly and easily.
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True about the plastic rings. I had ordered some custom rings made out of ebony and phenolic from an electric bass luthier in Portland, OR. Beautifully done. He also makes custom control knobs. I didn’t have an easy time with getting those rings fitted to the top. Just wondered if something like this would have helped. As it is, with the ebony ring, one side is flush and the other isn’t. Plus, it was difficult to maintain registration with the mounting holes in the ring and top while moving the ring over the sandpaper.
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I have some ebony rings from LMII. I fitted them by hand, using sandpaper taped to the top near the rout. It was actually easier than fitting a bridge, because there is little danger of tilting and rounding the bottom, and less effect if there is some rounding. Fitting pickup rings isn't as critical as fitting bridge bases.
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I have a friend who drilled some slots into a piece of aluminum angle stock. He lent to to me for a build I was working on. It helps to give something to hold on to and keep the base of the bridge flat. Not sure how much the little post with the wheel really adds to the jig, but just a $1 of aluminum did fine.
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Got one as a present. It's OK but for me more trouble than it's worth. Not that hard to apply even pressure as you fit the bridge and a little flexibility in motion is good.
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It seems that rig imposes a perpendicular angle between the bridge and the motion, and will thus generate a perfect for a bridge that's perfectly perpendicular to the strings? The mismatch is probably (almost) negligible if you have to rotate the base for proper compensation but I'd feel somewhat cheated given the price.
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If we are nitpicking it doesnt take compression of the top under string tension into account either. But its a guitar, not something we fly to the moon in Originally Posted by RJVB
It seems that rig imposes a perpendicular angle between the bridge and the motion, and will thus generate a perfect for a bridge that's perfectly perpendicular to the strings? The mismatch is probably (almost) negligible if you have to rotate the base for proper compensation but I'd feel somewhat cheated given the price.
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Actually the top is probably shaped by the bridge if the fit is close enough. Someone (I think Erlewine or Ken Parker) has a video about bridge fitting where he says he removes a tiny bit of material in the centre after fitting, to shape the top. Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
(But you could just push down hard enough on the base while sanding it off, no?
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I own one and I have used it a couple of times. I've also done a few by by hand and in my opinion, there are two pluses with regard to the jig. It is easier to hold the jig then the just the bridge and there is less chance of round over has someone mentioned earlier. As far as other places to check out for luthier supplies I also use Philadelphia Luthier tools as well as LMII.
Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies Guitar building tools and parts
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They are good I bought my fret tang nipper from them a few years ago. It was way better than stewmac 's and now I see Stew Mac has basically a similar one now. Originally Posted by rob taft
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Could be that I dont understand what you mean but. The tension of the strings will create a downward pressure on the top, the top will then change shape ever so slightly and instead of even contact between bridge base and top there will only be contact in 1 or more points, which impacts transfer of vibration. Originally Posted by RJVB
Actually the top is probably shaped by the bridge if the fit is close enough. Someone (I think Erlewine or Ken Parker) has a video about bridge fitting where he says he removes a tiny bit of material in the centre after fitting, to shape the top.
(But you could just push down hard enough on the base while sanding it off, no?)
Parkers tip is a sound one because first of all it allows the bridge base to flatten itself against the top, and second if all fails 2 points are better than 1. Because who the fuck wants a bridge that rocks sideways
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