-
Hey folks,
I have my eye on an archtop on reverb, but was put off by what was clearly a lack of centering of the strings on the higher part of the fretboard. I realised this was likely because the bridge was offset, and was finally able to convince the dealer this was the case. (The fact they couldn't initially see anything wrong in their own photos is a bit concerning, but anyway....) So now they're saying that they release string tension when shipping a guitar, so it's going to be up to me to put the bridge back where it should be.
I've never done this before, and am wondering how tricky it is? I'm imagining it could be a very tedious and time-consuming process, having to bring the strings to tension, check the intonation, release the tension, move the bridge, try again etc etc. Am I right? How much danger is there of marking the carved top while doing this? (I have some - limited - experience of adjusting individual saddles on an electric to fix intonation, but don't consider myself a great handyman.)
Thanks in advance!
-
03-28-2022 12:20 PM
-
Assuming nothing is seriously wrong with the bridge check this tutorial :
You should be able to get it pretty well dialed in or else just bring it to your luthier they can sett it up fairly easily.
Ray
-
I've done mine a few times. I can get it in the ball park because it's a 15 yo guitar so there is a slight colour difference in the area where the bridge has kept the light off the body. As, long as you know the scale length, a tape measure would get you to that point. After that, it's pretty straightforward. I just loosened the strings a little bit and slid the bridge until I was happy. Then again, my guitar has a poly finish, so it doesn't mark easily.
Now I've got it where I want it, I use a little bit of insulating tape to mark the position of the back edge if I ever need to take all the strings off at the save time.
Hope that helps.
Sent from my COL-L29 using TapatalkLast edited by Gladders; 03-28-2022 at 04:05 PM.
-
It does, thanks very much!
I watched a couple of YouTube videos, and one good tip seemed to be to keep the high and low E strings at tension, but leave the others slack. That way you can adjust the bridge to get those two intoonated and work from there.
-
I have experienced much less trouble with bridge positioning along and across than expected so if the guitar is in good working order it shouldn't be a problem - its just something you do when you set intonation. If you thead a cotton string around the bridge or bridge base it is easier to counteract the string downpressure so you dont scratch the top when you move the bridge around.
As a second check you can see how well the strings center over the pickup pole pieces as well. Angle of photography can cheat.
-
+1 with what Gladders said. On the two archtops I've bought online, both had marks in the finish from the bridge so it was easy to set it in approximately the right spot and then fine tune it with a tuner. If the guitar hasn't already shipped, maybe the seller can mark the positions of the corners of the bridge corners with masking tape? That way you don't need to worry about whether the bridge has left a mark.
-
Painter's tape is the best. It comes up easy and doesn't leave residue or harm finish.
I use sticky notes sometimes.
Once, a number of years ago, there was a golden eagle for sale in St. Louis I think, but some idiot had used a permanent black marker to mark the bridge position! DON'T!
Sounds like you have it figured out and will do fine. Even with the two E strings tensioned, you will want to relax/detune them to move the bridge on the surface. I think. A little bit of tension won't mar the finish.
That's how I do it.
-
Putting the bridge back on is no issue but you need a perfect machinist ruler that is at least 2 feet long. If you know the guitar scale length then all you need to do is make sure the top of saddle where the strings break over the top is twice the distance from the middle of the 12th fret. You then need to add 1/16 inch on the high E and 5/32 on the low E. This will get you pretty accurate on a 25 inch scale or even 25.5. This combined with markings from where the bridge sat will probably be fine. Sight down the neck from the body end to get the bridge centered on the fingerboard. Then check intonation with tuner and make any adjustments but they will be small if you do it this way. Make sure bridge is at 90 degree angle to body as they tend to sometimes lean forward.
-
I’ve always removed bridges for shipment and marked them with painters tape. What’s worse, removing them or shipping it with full tension? I’ve received a few like that. I thanked my lucky stars nothing happened. But it’s not advisable.
-
You don't have to be a "handy man " to accomplish this task. It is pretty simple. See link below. If I'm going to change strings and clean/polish the top I will use low tack painters tape to mark the current location so I start off in about the right place. Then adjust from there.
FRETS.COM
-
it's not too hard and once you understand what you're doing, you'll be able to make adjustments every time your change strings.
Start with Low E with the other strings detuned and rough in the location of the bridge, slowly, by ear, comparing fretted E to the 12th fret harmonic. You know the drill. Then high E. Now make sure both are in tune and perfectly intonated before you do the 2 center strings (D,G) next. These two to prevent lateral shifting.
you got this.
-
yikes!
Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
same, i had an arch top shipped with floating bridge in place and strings at tension. It arrived with the bridge cracked and the top cracked beneath it and caved in. Guitar was trashed.
-
I've had a few arrive like that, fortunately w out damage. They were shipped by highly reputable shops, I was very surprised. Originally Posted by mikeSF
Best to specify no matter how reputable.
-
I've received guitars in all sorts of shipping conditions, all the way from in tune to having the bridge in the case pocket. Some just detuned a little, and none have been damaged. :fingers-crossed: It is important to put some padding between the strings and the top, and especially under the tailpiece, if the bridge is removed, and even if the tension is just loosened. I don't claim to know the best way to do it, but I remove the bridge and put it in the case pocket.
-
Thanks all for the great advice! You rock! Or, er, jazz
-
Why is everybody so afraid for floating bridge positioning?
I switched bridges so many times… just place it between the ‘dents’ of the f-holes, tune up, play some flageolets on 12 and move the bridge until the fretted note on 12 matches the flageolet.. (usually a bit of a compromise between strings, even with compensated bridges). I am usually able to move the bridge with bothe hands under full string tension (usually just a few millimetres suffice).
-
Rotem Sivan's Howard Roberts
The low "E" is so far in near the "A" ......seems there's a lot more room on the higher strings than the lows...Perhaps this is to alleviate or compensate for the odd perforations near the positions binding of the low E .. Although, I must admit, it does not affect his playing. ....
RayLast edited by RayS; 03-29-2022 at 02:12 PM.
-
The tailpiece could be slightly askew. If so, after centering the bridge it will migrate back to its "uncentered" position just from playing. If only slightly off, you can center the tailpiece using felt underneath one side of its mounting piece. Good luck! Originally Posted by CliffR
-
Thanks! I still haven't made my mind up whether to pull the trigger. It's not a cheap guitar.
-
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I happen to find myself thinking about archtop bridges this Sunday morning...
Hopefully these simple steps will aid anyone looking to assess bridge position.
Little Jay has the best advice here. Line the bridge up to the pointy part of each f-hole (telltale sign of a guitar that isn't set up right and isn't played often is if the bridge is way off of this mark). Further, if it's an electric with two pickups you often see the bridge almost or actually touching the bridge pickup (and obviously that is a built in limit to adjustment). If it's acoustic or single pickup then just have to use the f-holes. It's not uncommon for the bridge to be way off of the faded spot on an older instrument because of changing string gauges or just the subtle shifts of time.
One more super helpful thing. If you have an all wooden bridge (not tune-o-matic) the trick is to get the "E" strings as close to intonated as possible. Technically if the bridge is properly position, you should get the 12 fret note matching the 12 fret harmonic. If that is true for the two strings on the outside edge, then hopefully those in the middle are also good. However if you don't plan to play fret 12 on the low E string too often, you could use fret 7 instead. And there's always some compromise, it's never really 100% intonated. And I personally love that part of the sound.
edit: One last thought, if the bridge is ever taken right off the guitar, make sure when replacing it that the compensated part is lined up to the G string (again, wooden bridges only). The G string is historically wound, thus the compensated pattern. It is possible to put the bridge on backwards, and nothing more "off" than a high quality instrument with such a simple piece backwards and thus rendered useless and even debilitating to tuning!
-
Not all archtops put the bridge at the point of the f holes. For some models the body was originally designed for a different scale length neck than is being used. The Gibson Byrdland is one such. The body size and short scale length put the bridge in front of the points when it's properly intonated. It's an okay rule of thumbs, but thumbs come in different sizes. It's fine to start in the general area of the f hole points, but that can only get you in the ballpark, most of the time, and never at exactly home plate.
Reply With Quote
Recommandations for Hollowbodies for $600 and under?
Today, 05:20 AM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos