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I think the high E was about 7ct sharp at the 12th fret, and moving the bridge+saddle backwards must have exposed about 5mm of marks in the nitro (parallel to the bridge, presumably an imprint of a not very properly finished underside of the base??). I waited about 24h after the string change to give the woods time to settle to the new tension distribution.
Originally Posted by sgosnell
I use wound G strings so the B is the 2nd thinnest string in my setsIME the playing difficulty of the B string is often caused by having the nut slot too high. It's one of the thickest strings in the set, and thus one of the stiffest.
Intuitively I'd say that too low an action at the nut is also not good for the B, not if it tends to fall under one of the less thick parts of your index finger (aka a joint). I've adjusted that action to be as low as I dare to make it on both trebles - and have a ZeroGlide nut incoming which I'll have installed at the same time as changing the saddle (got both the all-ebony Foley saddle plus the rosewood+bone; will get the ebony base adjusted to my top and then see which saddle gives that best sound to my ears).
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06-18-2022 04:46 PM
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The core of a wound G is the thinnest of a set. The G is thicker only if the G is plain.
The nut slot is too low only if the string buzzes on the first fret when plucked open. If it doesn't buzz when plucked, the slot is not too low. Too low is a problem if you play open strings, but not necessarily if you only play fretted strings.
With a bone insert, I defy you to tell whether a rosewood or ebony saddle is in use while blindfolded. Really, I defy you to tell, blindfolded, whether the saddle is ebony or rosewood without an insert.
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Exactly what are you trying to say? The string gauges that count are the external diameters, which is also what is specified on the set/string packaging. My B is a 0.016" at the moment, the G a 0.019". Evidently a wound string has a core wire that's thinner (kind of the point of using winding), quite possibly thinner than that plain wire next string up.
Originally Posted by sgosnell
I was indeed hoping that the difference between the use of rosewood and ebony in the saddle would be undetectable with a bone insert. Ebony is harder which is enough reason to prefer it when not using a bone saddle. The saddles and bases are interchangeable so I'll pay only once for matching a base to the top - the one that theoretically has the least low-pass characteristic.
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For intonation, the gauge of the core wire is what counts.
Originally Posted by RJVB
Take a look at a bridge intonated for a plain g and for a wound g and the light bulb will come on
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I guess it makes sense that the core is what counts most, but then how do you explain that a thin-core set intonates just fine without changes to compensation?
Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
(I've used GHS thin cores on my jumbo, can't remember having had a reason to quantify intonation errors.)
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Well, its the relationship between pitch and wire gauge and string weight that decides the exact length of each string and the change between a 0.10 and a 0.12 tuned to e is so small that some can live with it.
Originally Posted by RJVB
Intonation aside we are living in world of a tempered scale and straight fretwire so anything is an approximation anyhow =)
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pitch, gauge, unit weight and tension
Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
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I have the same problem with the LaBellas. Are the Pyramids any better?
Originally Posted by ArnoldSchoenberg
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I can't compare them to the LaBellas, but they do give some intonation problems if the action at the nut is too high. You'd have to try them to know if they're any better for you...
Originally Posted by Woody Sound



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