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Excited to share my NGD, a 1973 L-5. Some of you might have seen my post that I was selling a 1967 ES-330 trying to buy a 175. Well, this is a surprising turn of events and definitely not a 175! I didn't really think any L5 would be attainable at this time, let alone a vintage one, but they have always been the pinnacle of archtop guitars for me and my dream was to one day own one.
I was able to work out one of the kind of amazing deals I have only read about on forums but never had happen to me personally. I listed the 330 for sale and someone hit me up instantly with strong interest. We struck up a conversation and he asked what are you trying to buy. I said a 175, but my dream is a L5. He said funny enough, I know a guy selling one. He doesn't want to sell it on reverb or online, and he doesn't want to sell it to a dealer or reseller, rather only a player who will enjoy it. We were able to work out all the transactional details and I am now the proud owner of this 1973.
Now I also need some advice from all the experts on here. There are two small cracks in the cutaway where the sides and binding meets the top. Very small, I did not notice them at first. How big of a concern are these, and how difficult are they to repair? Also - the saddles are absolutely trashed. Any rec's on saddles to put in this bridge? Finally - would you consider doing a wooden bridge instead? Pics at the bottom
And now the advice/damage pics:
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02-14-2022 11:46 AM
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Congrats and may that classic L-5 inspire your playing for many years to come. I think those cracks may be finish checks and the binding separation looks normal and stable. Have a luthier look at it to make sure.
I would replace that metal bridge with a wood saddle myself, and in fact, I did so on both of my Gibson L-5's.
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congrats on the L-5, a big step up from a 175.
the binding has shrunken a bit in the cutaway. a good luthier might be able to heat it and reglue it but short of that not a big deal imo. I can't tell if the saddles are metal or nylon, I'm guessing metal.
I'd probably put some nylon saddles to warm up the sound a bit or take SS's advice and put a wooden one on.
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SS has it I would go with ebony saddle. Those are just binding shrinking and probably not much you can do about them really as binding tends to need to be replaced completely around to get it correct. These are small issues and nothing structural. In fact it is possible they might not ever get any worse. In the grand scheme of jazz guitars this is normal and in fact allows you to play it a bit more without some worry. The guitar is no longer mint so might was well enjoy it and many other things could be much worse.
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Congratulations to you on your new guitar. You bought a player so leave it at that. Fixing cosmetic issues will not make it into anything other than what it is. Agree with the others who suggested the wood bridge top. Enjoy!
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Congrats! That’s a decent amount of flame to the back for a 1973.
I agree with what has been said about the finish/binding issues. They don’t look to be of significant concern. I really like nylon saddles on a TOM for any Gibson CES, and that’s an easy swap. An ebony saddle would be a close second choice for me.
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Wow, congratulations! Electric L5s are just my favorites. Nothings else has that wonderful sound. and as said, a huge step up from a 175.
And yes, great looking back for a ‘70s era. Nice!
enjoy that thing, it was just 2.5 years ago when I finally fulfilled my dream and got one.
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happy new L-5 day to you !

my dream guitar as well, the 1951 ES-175 that I have, is a very nice guitar for what it is though.
but still.
many happy miles with this one.
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Congratulations on that nice L5! I had a very similar era one, I think a 1969, I wish I'd hung on to it for sure.
BTW shouldn't the bridge base be ebony? It was on mine. And I agree that an ebony bridge is worth trying.
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Super nice guitar! I see nothing that I personally would worry about, although a new bridge would not be a bad idea. congratulations, and play it in good health!
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I would buy this bridge it looks the part and is ebony at least they claim it. Then you can google how to fit it to the top with sandpaper to get it to sit correct. Not a lot of money and I think looks much better. Set the intonation it probably will be fine but can be dialed in if needed.
Archtop guitar ebony bridge for jazz guitar | eBay
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She's a beauty! Nicely done. Super happy for you!
Roli
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I think you lucked out there as I'm sure that is a 69 or there abouts. In 1970 they changed the headstock veneer to a slightly different urn and gibson font so I think it is more vintage than you thought!!! I would leave the binding, perhaps it is a bit of shrinkage or movement but easy to mess up trying to put it right even for the most experienced luthier. I have a hofner committee with the same looking gaps in the cutaway, it's not uncommon. You can just replace the saddles with new ones from Gibson while keeping everything else original.
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Since you already have an ABR type bridge, just buy some saddles
Nylon Saddle Set for Gibson Style ABR1 Bridge, BP0535-025 | Parts Is Parts - Guitar Parts, Amplifier Parts, Korg Keyboard Parts
For me, intonation is a big deal and I sometimes experiment with string gauges so the stock bridge would work better than an all wood bridge. Just my .02
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Nice, nice, nice. Enjoy it no matter what!
Saddles??? Metal, brass, nylon - you have your pick nowadays.
I just garnered an ebony bridge for mine - what a wealthy way to go - for not a lot of money. And I still have the ol' TOM if I need it! But all guitars vary, so the only way you'll know what is best, is to try them out. And get some really good strings for a treat!
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Respectfully Mark,
Originally Posted by deacon Mark
Wes disagrees with you, TOM for the guy with the thumb.
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Congrats Paulie,
I would absolutely make a note to look into the binding issue in 50 years or so. Tune it up and play it.
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Still has the original frets, must've been a lifelong flats guitar
Don't dismiss the tuneomatic, w nylon saddles you get a warm sound and more precise intonation than a wood saddle.
That said my '69 has all ebony (came that way) but all my other 60s Gibson's have tom's w nylon saddles.
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One thing for certain is if putting a TOM on my guitar would make me play anything near Wes. Well that would be a done deal no ebony for me.
Originally Posted by whiskey02
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Wow! Congrats! That was an easy way to find Your dream guitar! As they say: You have to give to be able to receive (or You have to sell to be able to buy!).
I would not change anything (but strings) at first. The bridge saddles ’have seen the world’ but if they keep the intonation it does not matter. Time will tell You what to do with it.
L5 must come from letters ’Lovely’!
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Thanks for all the replies guys!
Thanks! That is what I was assuming but wanted to be sure. I was keeping it regardless, just wanted to make sure it was not something that was going to get worse overtime if not addresed.
Originally Posted by Stringswinger
The seller said he bought it around 1980 and has played it maybe 20/30 times since then. I think it was well played before him though by the original owner. I am leaning towards nylon like you mention. My other arches all have wooden saddles so might keep this one more electric. We will see!
Originally Posted by wintermoon
Yeah the saddles are pretty torn up. They are nylon, and it looks like someone tried to do some rough work on them. There are multiple string slots per saddle, and not a lot of depth in them either. The strings are slipping out of tune relatively easily so I think some replacements will be in order.
Originally Posted by Herbie
Here's a bonus pic with it's L7C partner in crime:
Last edited by Paulie2; 02-15-2022 at 10:37 AM.
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Wow, what a beautiful burst. I love the checking. As others have stated, I would not be concerned about the binding separation. Attempts to repair it, especially if heat is involved, could weaken surrounding glued areas causing more issues. A light ammount of glue might help to keep it stable, but not necessarily crucial.
You might check the pot manufacturing dates to pinpoint the year your L5 was made. The serial numbers from this era can be confusing.
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Another clue as far as dating is in very early 1970 they raised the neck higher off the body. You can see the difference in the amount of wood on the neck joint sticking up above the body where neck and body meet vs pre-1970 models.
Also at that time, the slope of the top where the neck joins is angled differently, necessitating turning the neck pickup ring around so the pickup sits level under the strings.
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Nice guitar. Welcome to the club!!
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Wow! that is a whole lot of Mojo. Your pic of the back looks to be 2 pieces but the grain is perfectly matched. Am I correct? Anyway, Congrats on your purchase.



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