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ES-175 on bass upper boutL-5 on treble upper boutES-335 next to potsES-275 on bass upper boutIt can't just be the Florentine cutaway that is decisive, but that seems to be a strong factor. If so, the default would be the treble upper bout and the other positions would be the step-children positions.
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07-06-2021 02:57 PM
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I was in the middle of a tune on a large jazz fest stage and all of a sudden my guitar went dead. I freaked out. The cord worked ok, the amp worked ok. Then I noticed I had accidentally bumped the toggle down on my 275 (upper bout) and the bridge pickup was set to 0.
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Yea and Tal really disliked that production switch placement decision. Both his prototypes (#1 stolen, #2 used till a year or two before he passed) had no “scroll” but a simple circular inlay around a switch in the lower bout where the scroll is.
This was important to him, because he depended upon switching to the bridge pickup for those iconic octave/bell tone solos. That production switch, hidden as it was, forced him to stay with the prototypes.
jk
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One of my preferred locations for the toggle switch is just in front of the volume/tone controls, but angled towards the player's hand.
That's how the Johnny A. Signature is laid out. Perfect!
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I wonder why they did that if he really didn't like it?
Originally Posted by jazzkritter
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The toggle switch had to go somewhere. Over the years it ended up all over the place.
Space for the switch mechanics including a feasible solution for the time consuming mounting procedure was clearly most important together with aesthetics.
Playing ergonomics was probably the least important design factor. Fortunately the switch was always located on top of the body
I doubt they ever considered to what extent the location of the switch and internal cables would affect resonance, even though it probably does.
Unlike solid bodies, archtops never got the bizarre poker chip; "Rythm" and "Treble". But over the years we learned to appreciate that there was an aesthetic aspect also to the silly plastic chip. A Les Paul got to have it, but never ever on a 335 or an archtop.
The random location of the switch becomes an issue when the player has internalized the layout of a certain model. Then when he picks up a different model he is deemed to find that the switch location is wrong.
A guitar with a single neck pickup need no toggle switch. Problem solved.
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+ 1 !!! Originally Posted by JCat
A guitar with a single neck pickup needs no toggle switch. Problem solved.
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That’s a classic one all Gibson owners experience at some point! Originally Posted by Woody Sound
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Especially if you've been away from the Gibson for a while and have been playing a single p/u archtop or - horror - a strat! Originally Posted by Little Jay
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I don't think it's convenience or less expense that drove the toggle switch location. It can't be easier to route a Les Paul than to put the switch with the other controls.
All of the positions work. But the choices can lead to accidents at times if you are not paying attention. If you are professional, that could be an accident in the workplace. Therefore the government has a duty to step in and make guitar playing less accident prone and standardize the controls layout.
Once that's achieved, they can go over pedal boards and amp controls. It will be beautiful.
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My one and only beef with the L-5CES, an otherwise flawless design, is the location of the toggle switch. My Les Paul custom had the switch on the right spot, namely the geometric center of the upper bout. To have it stuck in the middle of that lovely Florentine cutaway just seems so wrong. As for the 3xx series, the switch setting took a little getting used to, but I made the necessary mental adjustments. I'm pretty sure I could live with the Tal Farlow's ergonomic eccentricities. For hollowbodies in general, the production hurdles more or less dictate grouping all the dangly bits rather closely.
When it came time to replace the stereo jack on my 345, my favorite retailer, with whom I had done a lot of business, fixed it for me. When I asked him how much I could pay him for the service, he replied "There is not enough money in the world." Needless to say, if he had not already irrevocably cemented my customer loyalty, that would have done it.
So yeah, electrified hollowbodies are labor intensive. We are lucky to be able to afford them at all!
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I've changed harnesses on semi-hollows. The first time probably took well over an hour. I now use aquarium pump hosing to go over the stems of the pots. I now use the technique shown in this video. Originally Posted by citizenk74
When it came time to replace the stereo jack on my 345, my favorite retailer, with whom I had done a lot of business, fixed it for me. When I asked him how much I could pay him for the service, he replied "There is not enough money in the world." Needless to say, if he had not already irrevocably cemented my customer loyalty, that would have done it.
So yeah, electrified hollowbodies are labor intensive. We are lucky to be able to afford them at all!
Gibsons are easier than Heritages because Gibson bodies are deeper.
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I have always used string, I'll have to try the buss wire.
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problem solved:
(this thing sucks at posting photos from the internet)
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1rVwNI...Switch-149.jpg
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I've tried almost every method over the decades, and now I only use this: Archtop Guitar Helping Hand | stewmac.com
although mine is home-made using a wire coat hanger.
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I started to use one of these:
After watching a video about the Making of Clapton's Crossroads ES 335 where there's a very short scene of a worker installing pots and using a similar tool.
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