Gibson ES-175 - Strap Button Poll

[mikeSF]

I would never put a strap button screw into the neck itself for risk of it causing a split over time.

Also,#3 is best for an ES 175 to keep it from tilting forward when standing.

[JohanAbrandt]

I would never put a strap button screw into the neck itself for risk of it causing a split over time.

Also,#3 is best for an ES 175 to keep it from tilting forward when standing.

I would never put a screw in a guitar without predrilling.

[Jazz_175]

I have mine in number 1 position. I am thinking of buying another 175, one of these 1959 reissue, which is used in mint conditions. If I do, I think I won't put a strap button on it and I'll try the headstock solution, which is common in acoustic guitars.

[Billy Z]

Position 1 is where Gibson would have put it if, it had one from the factory. My es 275 has one there.



This is not factory on the es 275. It was there when I got it. I have since replaced with a Gibson button. This location does help pin the neck tenon to the pocket.

[pingu]

I am a number 3 kind of guy. Just make sure there is a block of wood built-in for support..

so am I ….
I put in a block of mahogany
(for good tone !)

#3 the Les Paul position

[Gitpicker]

Funny to see this thread pop back up again. I literally just had a strap peg installed one my 175 two days ago I went with position number 2. Works well, doesn't get in my way.

[Stringswinger]

Funny to see this thread pop back up again. I literally just had a strap peg installed one my 175 two days ago I went with position number 2. Works well, doesn't get in my way.

Position 2 remains my preference. Not only doesn't it get in my way, but I find that a 175 balances very well with a strap pin in that position.

[kawa]

#3 is Best Position.

Point is with a felt washer

To stop the strap button screw vibrating loose

[mikeSF]

#3 is Best Position.

that spot prevent the guitar from tilting forward. good choice.

[kawa]

Thanks mikeSF.

An example scene.

When I was big band frequently use both hand for score sortig.

[Herbie]

As I voted years ago I am a true believer of position 4.

At last I had time to draw a highly artistic and very scientific picture why I am suspicious about the positions 1 & 2:



(I am sorry that I don't know all the physical terms in english but I try

When the guitar with a strap button in position 1/2 is in the case there will be pressure "downwards" to the guitar via body and the neck. Then the strap button inn the middle of the guitar is the base point. And because the base point is pointy the "downward" pressure is trying to bend the guitar.

I know that the pressure might not be big, the strap button is not very high, maybe 1 cm. But who of us is willing to address any bending force to our instruments?

And besides: after years the button will spoil the padding of the case underneath it.

But the position 4 does not have any disadvantages! At least I my left thumb has never touched the buttons in the position 4 thru the years.

[jazzshrink]

...In the end I just looped a shoelace under the end of the fingerboard and tied the strap to it. This has been my arrangement for the last 25 years, it seems to adjust naturally to a comfortable playing position and is very inconspicuous. It is also an economical and non-invasive solution.

I wonder if this Guitar Neck Adapter Strap would work for this purpose:

Most adapter straps are too short (8") for my Eastman 810, but this one is 12" which seems sufficient. Thoughts?

[jazzshrink]

...At last I had time to draw a highly artistic and very scientific picture why I am suspicious about the positions 1 & 2:

The guitar in your illustration has a flat back. Wouldn't the "pressure point" be less with an arched back?

[Gregc57]

I'm with 1 or 2; more likely # 2. For me, the guitar sits nice with the button on the back side and I have high confidence drilling there.

[GuyBoden]

For my [NGD] New Old Archtop.

I've decided on position Number 4. Due to the heel cap being too small on my guitar.

I've got the drill out of the garage, found the correct sized bit and a small pilot bit.

(Edit: Job done, very pleased. I've fitted many Strap buttons on solid body guitars, but this was my first on an archtop, usually, they've already been fitted.)

https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/hardware-installation/wheres-the-best-spot-for-your-strap-button-/

[JCat]

I recently played a sweet vintage archtop, almost 70 years old, in good condition. At some point in time someone installed a neck strap button...The sweet old archtop had been altered and equipped with an offending neck strap button on the heel (position #4) interfering with the fretting hand, obstructing playability.

If your guitar didn't get a neck strap button, it's not because they forgot to install it at the factory. It's simply because these guitars originally didn't get a neck strap button and many contemporary builds, true to the traditional design, also leave the factory without one. Back in the days, in the event someone required a strap, it was attached around the headstock.

If you, for some reason decide to install a neck strap button or modify its position, think twice. You don't have to decide on a position (suggested by the poll), a most valid option is not to install any neck strap button at all, or remove it. It's your guitar, and you do what you want, just remember that drilling is an irreversible mod. (-Do you really think it's a good idea to drill in the rim, as suggested by position #3?)

Semis and thinlines (came by the end of the 50s when solidbodies and double button straps had already been introduced). Those guitars typically got a factory neck strap strap button in position #1 or #2, not obstructing playability An original hard case for those guitars typically got a neck support and a soft cushion right under the neck joint, meaning the guitar is not resting directly on the strap button. While on its back on the work bench, you may want to use a neck support to make sure the guitar is not resting on the strap button.

[GuyBoden]

I recently played a sweet vintage archtop, almost 70 years old, in good condition. At some point in time someone installed a neck strap button...The sweet old archtop had been altered and equipped with an offending neck strap button on the heel (position #4) interfering with the fretting hand, obstructing playability.

If your guitar didn't get a neck strap button, it's not because they forgot to install it at the factory. It's simply because these guitars originally didn't get a neck strap button and many contemporary builds, true to the traditional design, also leave the factory without one. Back in the days, in the event someone required a strap, it was attached around the headstock.

If you, for some reason decide to install a neck strap button or modify its position, think twice. You don't have to decide on a position (suggested by the poll), a most valid option is not to install any neck strap button at all, or remove it. It's your guitar, and you do what you want, just remember that drilling is an irreversible mod. (-Do you really think it's a good idea to drill in the rim, as suggested by position #3?)

Semis and thinlines (came by the end of the 50s when solidbodies and double button straps had already been introduced). Those guitars typically got a factory neck strap strap button in position #1 or #2, not obstructing playability An original hard case for those guitars typically got a neck support and a soft cushion right under the neck joint, meaning the guitar is not resting directly on the strap button. While on its back on the work bench, you may want to use a neck support to make sure the guitar is not resting on the strap button.

It's obviously, a personal choice.

Position 4 works for me, there's no interference with my fretting hand, but I rarely venture above the 14th fret. In my experience the 'strap around the headstock' works well in a seated position with the guitar body supported, but if you standup with a heavy guitar the 'strap around the headstock' can pull the guitar out of tune. IMHO.