The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    since the last setup which involved some trussrod work , the guitar was perfectly setup , no string buzz whatsoever , but a few day after the high E started buzzing when hit hard !
    although i raised the 3 higher strings action doesn't seem to solve the problem !
    it's a GB10 btw strung with daddarios 0.12.
    Any idea ? it's very annoying !

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  3. #2

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    could be many things..the neck could be too flat..necks move with temp and humidity changes, despite the recent trussrod tweak..could also be a high fret...or the nut or bridge saddle slot cut/worn too low..and that's only the string

    buzzing can come from numerous places on a guitar and can be difficult to pinpoint (esp to the novice tweaker)

    cheers

  4. #3

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    I have had strings buzz at the tailpiece where the string exits the tailpiece.

  5. #4

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    Check for too much relief ...
    Sounds like the necks moved a bit

  6. #5

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    The easiest thing is to raise the bridge on the side that buzzes. It may take no more than a quarter turn, maybe a half. It can take awhile for a neck to settle to a permanent position after a trussrod adjustment. If the neck is straight, and the nut slots are the proper height, bridge adjustment is the only thing that affects the buzzing. Just turn the wheel on the buzzing side counterclockwise, looking from above, a quarter turn, or even less, and check for the buzzing, then keep turning and checking until it's gone.

  7. #6

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    Are you using the same string brand/gauge?

  8. #7

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    You raised the action on the three highest strings and that didn't solve the problem then my guess is that not enough neck relief my be the reason for your buzz. If the truss rod was recently adjusted it may have been over adjusted or tightened too much and now needs to go the other way. Is your buzz in the upper or lower register? As neatomic suggested the neck may be too flat.

  9. #8

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    I experienced a buzzing, ringing noise on a brand new GIbson today that was strung with D'Addario .12 chromes. It appeared to arise from the tailpiece. Changing to Ti JS112 strings that have a fabric covering on the ball end has completely resolved the issue.

  10. #9

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    Buzzes are a nuisance to run down. Might be the string. Might be something else. Might go away tomorrow on its own. I would check the neck with a straightedge and feeler gauge- I like about .010" relief at the 7th fret with the string fretted at the 1st and 15th frets. My GB10 hasn't had to have a trussrod adjustment in 20 years, for seasonal changes or string changes. But I have had some occasional trouble with the pickguard buzzing.
    Last edited by Cunamara; 09-28-2016 at 11:48 PM.

  11. #10

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    Prolly the frets are worn out.

  12. #11

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    the buzz in fact seems to ony happen acousticaly from the 12s fret downards, when amplified not that much and not when i hit the string gentely, i have to pick fairly hard to get the buzzing!
    but it's still annoys me , i mostly play it acoustic lately !
    could it be the high strings start buzzing when worn off ? but they don't look like so

  13. #12

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    That sounds like the trussrod has been adjusted just a little too tight, and it might help to back it off just a little, a few degrees of turn at a time, to allow just a little relief. It usually takes me several days to get the trussrod adjusted on a new acquisition, because I make a small adjustment, play it for a day or two, and repeat until it settles where I want it. It's not hard to do, and not dangerous as long as you don't go crazy with the adjustments. I seldom make as much as a quarter turn at a time. If it's close, and just needs a tweak like yours seems to, I only turn it a few degrees, just enough to feel movement, then let it settle before adjusting again.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    That sounds like the trussrod has been adjusted just a little too tight, and it might help to back it off just a little, a few degrees of turn at a time, to allow just a little relief. It usually takes me several days to get the trussrod adjusted on a new acquisition, because I make a small adjustment, play it for a day or two, and repeat until it settles where I want it. It's not hard to do, and not dangerous as long as you don't go crazy with the adjustments. I seldom make as much as a quarter turn at a time. If it's close, and just needs a tweak like yours seems to, I only turn it a few degrees, just enough to feel movement, then let it settle before adjusting again.
    I fear trussrod work , can i do that myself ?

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by mooncef
    the buzz in fact seems to ony happen acousticaly from the 12s fret downards
    when you say downward which direction are you talking about? Some people think down the neck as toward the bridge while others think the opposite. Perhaps it would be more accurate to say between 1-12 or 12-20 etc.

    As well as a straight edge and feeler gauges, every guitarist should have in their kit a short flat piece of aluminum or thick hard plastic and test the frets by rocking the tool across 3 frets at a time. if you feel rocking that means the middle fret is high and needs to be seated into the fret slot.

  16. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by mooncef
    I fear trussrod work , can i do that myself ?
    Sgosnell has the right approach. There is no need to fear adjusting the truss rod as long as you are very patient and have common sense. Most fellas have neither.

    Put a small weight, a dictionary, Bible, Qu'ran or Trump: Think like a billionnaire, on the middle of the fretboard to help the truss rod when tightening it. Maybe not Trump:TLaB as it is gonna be lightweight.

    When you are loosening it, you don't require the weight on the fretboard.

    As sgosnell said, a few degrees (5 degrees is a safe bet) at a time and then wait a few days for it to settle.

    You got to help the truss rod by making it do as little of the compressing work as you can. It is there to hold neck relief, not force it into place.

    The guys who force it are the ones who eventually damage the truss rod and the neck channel. Easy to fook up as the damage is incremental. The first few times are easy-peasy. And then trouble...
    Last edited by Jabberwocky; 09-29-2016 at 03:09 PM.

  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigToe
    when you say downward which direction are you talking about? Some people think down the neck as toward the bridge while others think the opposite. Perhaps it would be more accurate to say between 1-12 or 12-20 etc.

    As well as a straight edge and feeler gauges, every guitarist should have in their kit a short flat piece of aluminum or thick hard plastic and test the frets by rocking the tool across 3 frets at a time. if you feel rocking that means the middle fret is high and needs to be seated into the fret slot.
    I meant 1-12

  18. #17

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    1-12 is what I was assuming. That would most likely mean some backbow has been set, by tightening the trussrod too much. Just loosen the trussrod a little at a time, until the buzz goes away. It can take some time for the wood to relax. Remember, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. I've never seen a trussrod with left-handed threads.

  19. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by mooncef
    I meant 1-12
    Almost surely a truss-rod issue. Loosen the truss-rod, 1/4 turn at a time. Let each 1/4-turn change settle for a few hours, and then lower the bridge to get your action back into your favorite range. Repeat as needed -- you may not need to repeat at all, buzzes are very fine adjustments, usually.

    Don't be afraid of truss-rod work. So long as you're not muscling it around, you're good. The truss-rod fear is very overblown.
    Last edited by Thumpalumpacus; 09-29-2016 at 07:41 PM.

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
    Sgosnell has the right approach. There is no need to fear adjusting the truss rod as long as you are very patient and have common sense. Most fellas have neither.

    Put a small weight, a dictionary, Bible, Qu'ran or Trump: Think like a billionnaire, on the middle of the fretboard to help the truss rod when tightening it. Maybe not Trump:TLaB as it is gonna be lightweight.

    When you are loosening it, you don't require the weight on the fretboard.

    As sgosnell said, a few degrees (5 degrees is a safe bet) at a time and then wait a few days for it to settle.

    You got to help the truss rod by making it do as little of the compressing work as you can. It is there to hold neck relief, not force it into place.

    The guys who force it are the ones who eventually damage the truss rod and the neck channel. Easy to fook up as the damage is incremental. The first few times are easy-peasy. And then trouble...
    If i put those https://www.thomann.de/fr/thomastik_...20113_150979_0
    i think maybe the buzz can disapear by its own , it would generate a slight upward bow that will compensate for the current state of being too stright or downward bow!

  21. #20

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    no!... because thomastik 13's actually have lower tension than d'addario 12's..

    thom swing 13 set- 156.3 lbs tension

    d'addario chrome 12 set- 161.8 lbs tension

    cheers
    Last edited by neatomic; 10-02-2016 at 09:09 PM. Reason: info-

  22. #21

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    But the TI's have more tension on the treble strings, although less on the bass and less overall. The neck can be bowed unevenly, more on one side and less on the other. It doesn't take much difference to remove a slight buzz, and it's possible the string change did that. Possible, not necessarily certain.

  23. #22

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    The guitar may need a truss rod adjustment, but another issue I have had with high E strings is if the floating bridge has shifted off center from the neck. It happens sometimes as we play, especially if the bridge is not tightly fitted to the top. The problem is that the outer string is not seating in the right place on the fret when you finger a note.

    Easy fix. Loosen all but the two E strings, move the bridge back so the two E strings are equidistant from each side of the fretboard. Retune and play.