Going from 10 gauge to 12 gauge strings on my strat

**jtaylor2714** · 06-02-2016, 07:47 AM

I have recently switched from rock to jazz within the last year or so and would like to get a mellower, fatter tone out of my strat. I would also like better intonation and have no need to bend anymore which has led me to thinking I should put higher gauge strings on my guitar.

Years ago as an experiment I tried a heavier gauge than 10, I just cant remember if it was 11 or 12. The guitar seemed fine as far as I could tell. Anything I should be looking for when going from 10 to 12 gauge strings on a 1957 RI strat? I've read alot of advice basically saying I have to try it out and see how the guitar reacts.

**bluesholyman** · 06-02-2016, 08:52 AM

You will probably need to adjust the tension rod - SRV used 13's so 12's should not be an issue, but it will probably require an adjustment.

Also, you could consider using flat-wounds for mellower sound but keeping the gauge the same - I think flat-wounds are higher tension for similar gauge size. Jimmie Vaughn (not deliberately invoking the Vaughn brothers here, just a coincidence for the topic) uses flat-wounds on his strat - perhaps listen to some of his more recent stuff.

I tried D'addario chromes once, but found them really hard to bend so I went back to "normal" strings. They may do the trick for you without upping the gauge.

Hope that helps,
BHM

**mr. beaumont** · 06-02-2016, 09:14 AM

Should be fine. Let the guitar settle a bit before adjusting the truss rod. This might mean you need to string up and restring a few days down the road, as a '57 RI doesn't have easy access to the truss rod.

I definitely second the flatwounds idea. Really helps with a Strat's inherent "sproinginess."

You might also want to add a spring to your tremolo, if it doesn't have all of 'em installed. Likely, the string tension will pull the bridge up.

Strats are a pain, buy a tele

(j/k)

**oldane** · 06-02-2016, 09:17 AM

I agree. A Strat can easily take 12's - and heavier. When it was invented, 13's were the standard. I have had 15-56 on a Strat for a long time wityhout any ill effects. You may have to adjust the trussrod though. For jazz you may want to block the tremolo.

**Greentone** · 06-02-2016, 09:24 AM

Try Thomastik Infeld Swing flats in 12-50. They are quite low tense in and sound great. I kept a Telecaster with a very thin neck strung up with them, just fine. Sound? Great.

**mr. beaumont** · 06-02-2016, 09:27 AM

Originally Posted by oldane

I have had 15-56 on a Strat for a long time wityhout any ill effects.

Except for that time you broke a string on a gig and decapitated a waiter.

**oldane** · 06-02-2016, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by mr. beaumont

Except for that time you broke a string on a gig and decapitated a waiter.

Now that you mention it, it could be made part of a heavy metal show. ;-)

**BigDaddyLoveHandles** · 06-02-2016, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by oldane

I agree. A Strat can easily take 12's - and heavier. When it was invented, 13's were the standard. I have had 15-56 on a Strat for a long time wityhout any ill effects. You may have to adjust the trussrod though. For jazz you may want to block the tremolo.

Damn! I use T-I Swing 13s on my T-style. No problems, although I had to remove the silk from the ball end of the E string to get it through the top loader bridge.

**jtaylor2714** · 06-02-2016, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by oldane

I agree. A Strat can easily take 12's - and heavier. When it was invented, 13's were the standard. I have had 15-56 on a Strat for a long time wityhout any ill effects. You may have to adjust the trussrod though. For jazz you may want to block the tremolo.

I ended up buying 12 gauge flats. But the only ones I could find in Toronto were the D'Addarios.

I have my bridge flat against the body since I never use the tremolo. What does blocking the tremolo involve?

I hope the truss rod doesn't need adjusting as on the 50s strats the rod access is right at the body neck joint and involves unscrewing the neck bolts every time you want to make an adjustment.

**Lobomov** · 06-02-2016, 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by jtaylor2714

I hope the truss rod doesn't need adjusting as on the 50s strats the rod access is right at the body neck joint and involves unscrewing the neck bolts every time you want to make an adjustment.

It's actually not that bad. Loosen the strings, throw a capo on the 1st fret and screw of the neck. Rince and repeat

**oldane** · 06-02-2016, 12:52 PM

Originally Posted by jtaylor2714

I ended up buying 12 gauge flats. But the only ones I could find in Toronto were the D'Addarios.

They should be OK. Countless jazz guitarists the world over use them.

I have my bridge flat against the body since I never use the tremolo. What does blocking the tremolo involve?

Unscrew the plastic cover on the back over the tremolo cavity. Loosen the strings so the springs pull the tremolo body forward. Drop a suitable sized piece of hard wood in between the tremolo body and the rear of the cavity. Tighten the strings again so they pull the trelolo body rearwards and the piece of wood is sqeezed between the tremolo body and the rear wall of the cavity. If you have 5 springs mountedand no too thick strings, you may need to remove 2 or 3 springs. Ideally, the tremolo body should sit about in the middle of the cavity to have the string saddles be in the best position.

I hope the truss rod doesn't need adjusting as on the 50s strats the rod access is right at the body neck joint and involves unscrewing the neck bolts every time you want to make an adjustment.

This was a necessity back in the 1950s when the Gibson truss rod patent was still in work. These days the patent has run out and such a difficult to get at truss rod adjustment is not needed, but it's kept on a '53 RI because it's "original". More modern Fender necks have the truss rod adjustment at the peghead end like on a Gibson which is much more practical. Stromberg circumvented the Gibson patent by having the adjustment nut under the nut, which was not glued but only held by the string pressure. That said, it's easy and quick to loosen the strings and remove a Fender neck, but of course you have to put it back on to check if the rod tension is right.

Along the road, a Warmoth neck made more to your preferred specs - and with the trussrod nut at the peghead - may be worth considering.

**Stringswinger** · 06-02-2016, 02:33 PM

In the 50's and early 60's Strats and Teles shipped with 12 flats. They were originally designed as jazz guitars (western swing), and IMO are great jazz guitars with flats, and really shine with neck humbuckers. No need to block the tremelo (though I think doing so improves tone), but you will need to use 5 springs. I use Fenders on jazz gigs often.

**Jabberwocky** · 06-02-2016, 02:39 PM

Block off the VIBRATO!

Carry on...

**BigDaddyLoveHandles** · 06-02-2016, 03:35 PM

Originally Posted by oldane

This was a necessity back in the 1950s when the Gibson truss rod patent was still in work. These days the patent has run out and such a difficult to get at truss rod adjustment is not needed, but it's kept on a '53 RI because it's "original". More modern Fender necks have the truss rod adjustment at the peghead end like on a Gibson which is much more practical. Stromberg circumvented the Gibson patent by having the adjustment nut under the nut, which was not glued but only held by the string pressure. That said, it's easy and quick to loosen the strings and remove a Fender neck, but of course you have to put it back on to check if the rod tension is right.

Along the road, a Warmoth neck made more to your preferred specs - and with the trussrod nut at the peghead - may be worth considering.

I've heard that having the truss rod adjustment behind the nut weakens the wood of the headstock -- opinions?

This is the latest take, on the Fender Elites:

**mr. beaumont** · 06-02-2016, 03:41 PM

Based on all the modern strats and teles I see with broken headstocks, I say bull.

**Headshot** · 06-02-2016, 09:36 PM

I have run a Strat for jazz for years, and I have flatwounds on one and DR Blues pure nickel on the other, both are 12's. And both have 5 springs in the trem, one is a 2point and one is a vintage 6 screw, and I use the trem just as a Bigsby-type flutter device.

**jtaylor2714** · 06-02-2016, 09:46 PM

I now have the 12 gauge flats on my strat. They are harder to play at the moment but Im sure with practice, Ill get used to them. I absolutely love the sound. A lot louder/richer sounding, more of the fundamental note instead of the scratchy high end.

If I make it through these I might give 13's a shot.

I ended up blocking my tremolo as well, as it was raising up the bridge a tad even though I have the claw screwed all the way. The vintage strats only come with 3 springs.

**oldane** · 06-03-2016, 01:00 AM

Originally Posted by jtaylor2714

I now have the 12 gauge flats on my strat. They are harder to play at the moment but Im sure with practice, Ill get used to them. I absolutely love the sound. A lot louder/richer sounding, more of the fundamental note instead of the scratchy high end.

If I make it through these I might give 13's a shot.

I ended up blocking my tremolo as well, as it was raising up the bridge a tad even though I have the claw screwed all the way. The vintage strats only come with 3 springs.

With the 12s instead of 10s you will likely get away with a lower action which will reduce the fretting resistance (but they will still be harder to bend).