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Some chord voicings are just not practical for many people. Ted mentions that, play what is comfortable for you on your favorite guitar. There are an endless supply of voicing substitutes to get you there.
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11-05-2015 11:59 PM
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Let's get one thing straight, as Bosko alluded to, not everyone's hands can deal with Ted's voicings, and that's okay. That does not make you a bad guitarist, and don't let anyone shame you into thinking you're inadequate because you can't pull them off. Some people don't know any better and actually cause damage to their hands because they refuse to accept any limitations until it's too late.
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11-06-2015, 03:45 AM #28destinytot GuestI had the opportunity to try one recently - loved it.
Originally Posted by Greentone
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I own a first edition (Japan-made) Fender Pawn Shop Mustang with a 24" scale.
Superb neck, 6-1/4 lb.s & sounds good. I have hand "issues."
When you can, horse around with any 24" scale instrument you can find.
By the way, I advise: don't do anything that hurts on a guitar.
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LPs are ergonomically rather difficult. Seems to be no seated position that works well, and they tend to be heavy enough that hanging on the strap can be wearisome.
I practice jazz on several instruments, including a tele. The two easiest for getting that quasi classical seating and vertical fingerboard position are:
- A small, light semihollow (Seventy Seven Albatross Standard). It's shaped like a double cut LP special. Not great for resting on the left leg, but shortening the strap lets it hang just about where I need it. Have to swing it a bit left and stabilize with the right arm a bit as I pick, but it does work. Keeping the fingerboard vertical is then a matter of sitting up straight.
- Best of all is a roughly ES-175 size hollowbody. Mine is a Heritage H575. A little shallower body than the ES-175. This one I can rest on my left leg to get the right position. Very comfortable. The only downside is that the deeper body puts me further from the fretboard. Harder to see the fretboard. So I have to resist the urge to hunch over it, or cant the whole guitar backward a bit.
These are the best for me, given my height and arm length. What works for you could very well be something different.
MD
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There was a recent thread on this. Epiphone is making a beautiful Byrdland in their Elite Series. They may have stopped production but used they're lots cheaper than a Gibson and get great reviews.
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epi elitist byrdlands flew the coop in 2008!..gone..they are now kinda hard to come by..goin' for around 2k$
cheers
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Recommend !
290428
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I play Chord Melody style and have small hands. Yeah, there are some shapes that I can't reach (root on 5 minor6 comes to mind), but I've been stretching my hands for years and I do okay.
I play guitars with a 24.75" scale length. Why make things hard on myself?
Take a look at the Peerless Gigmaster 175 Jazz. I played one at GnJ and although I chose the Monarch 16 ($1395), I really liked the Gigmaster. It was a fun instrument to play and an excellent value @ $1000.
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You owe it to yourself to try out Ibanez, if you want an archtop guitar.
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I played an eastman es-330 style guitar yesterday and having the neck just that much higher when seated seemed to make a difference in comfort (I think a little over an inch). That guitar seemed to have a rather large neck. I'm not sure it's the neck thickness so much as the ability for me to have the neck higher. I'm thinking something lightweight and larger body would be great.
I've been interested in guilds for a long time, any experience with their guitars? I'm wary of ordering a guitar sight unseen from China. I've been meaning to try out the Ibanez guitars too. My first electric was an Ibanez, and I have an Ibanez Drednaught from the 70's that is just killer with maple back and sides.
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Mr. Pocket:
You might like the Guild X-170. Not as thin in the body as an ES-330, somewhere between that and an ES-175. 24.75 scale, 2 humbuckers. Fully hollow. A comfortable and solid guitar. Don't know if any are coming out new, but they are around used. You just have to watch out for the neck angle. I've played a couple that had the bridge up high, steep angle back. Makes for stiffer action. Not all are like that.
Which ES-330 type from Eastman did you play?
MD
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I'm not sure the model. It was pricey, over $2,200 I think. It was one of the new models with seymour duncan 59's. Solid woods all around, and fully hollow. It was nice.
I've been reading things about the neck angle on those older guilds. Is there a fool proof (me being the fool) way of determining a bad neck angle?



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