Drilling in Archtop

**GNAPPI** · 12-28-2012, 10:49 AM

I know this is going to curl the toes of many here but...

I have a great, inexpensive archtop with three P90's. I specifically bought it because it had three P90's and to play around with it doing some things I wouldn't do on a "better" guitar. I absolutely love the guitar's tone and think it can be an even greater guitar with mods.

It has a Fender style 5 way switch which has these pups selectable.

Bridge, bridge/middle, middle, middle/neck, neck.

I want to add another switch to give me:

Neck/bridge and neck/middle/bridge.

I know that more than one pup is anathema to many here, but for me, more is better. Always was, always will be.

My question is how to drill a hole in poly / nitro properly?

What sort of tape to use on the top if any?
Drill pilot hole first or just drill to final size?
Use steel or wood bit?

Oh, separate issue, I'm pulling out the tone pot and adding a varitone :-)

TIA,

Gary

**chipmonk78** · 12-28-2012, 10:57 AM

You don't have to do any drilling at all. Replacing one of the volume or tone pots with a push-pull can provide you with the extra pickup combinations you're after. This is common mod on Strats so a wiring diagram should be easy to get with a bit of googling.

**rgiaccio** · 12-28-2012, 10:59 AM

I think you could replace one of your pots with a push-pull one (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electron...ull_Pots.html). Then you could use the pot switch it to force the bridge pickup in parallel to the selected ones.
In this way, pulling the pot would transform the neck switch position into bridge/neck, and the bridge/middle position into neck/middle/bridge.
The mod is reversible and you would not need another hole on the top.

Maybe a more elegant solution would be to replace the 5-way switch with a 3-way one, with the following positions: neck, bridge/neck, bridge, and using the push-pull pot to add the middle pickup to the current position.

**PTChristopher** · 12-28-2012, 11:13 AM

If you do decide to drill into the finish, note that cracking the finish is a very common problem using normal HSS (high speed steel) drill bits.

Now a finish crack can be fixed very nicely, but better to not have one in the first place.

Two solutions:

Make your own drill bit from brass tubing. This is cheap, works great, can be re-sharpened hundreds of times, can be used slowly, etc.. This is how I worked for a very long time.

The downside is that you have to make the tool, which may not be your style. These bits also lack any centering, so getting started has to be done carefully.

The second way is to use a Forstner bit. You can get these at most DIY suppliers. They are un-cheap, but very useful. The downside is that a Forstner bit wants pretty high RPM, so you definitely want to practice some and have both the drill and the guitar under very good control.

In any case, never use a spade bit, or even the tripple-blade bit that electricians sometimes use.

You may very well get by with a normal HSS bit, but it is a conceptually flawed way to drill through a hard finish over a softer material.

For tape, I suggest the low-tack 3M blue tape, with the orange label.

I do not suggest a pilot hole. It just makes more opportunities to make a mess.

Also, watch out for punching through as you get most of the way through the top. Keep the RPM high and the forward progress slow as you get near the end. And far better: Put a block of wood on the backside of the hole to brace the top.

In my opinion.

Chris

**rpguitar** · 12-28-2012, 11:16 AM

Pull pot is a good idea, but I also like the simple accessibility of the dedicated mini-toggle for a bridge "always on" setting.

If you drill, use masking tape and a smaller pilot hole with wood bits. You will have the hole done in seconds, as the wood is thin, so the prep work is usually overly dramatic.

**Woody Sound** · 12-28-2012, 11:22 AM

If you really want a dedicated mini-toggle, you could mount it on the pickguard someplace where you won't accidentally bump it.

**SamBooka** · 12-28-2012, 11:22 AM

On my emp reg I put wide painter tape over the location (means I can draw on it too to mark the location.) started with a small pilot hole and then used a brad point bit to finish. Actually used the the brad point by hand (no drill first) just to score the finish and get it started.

Not a big deal if you measure 3 times and drill once.

They replace your 5 way with a 3 way (bridge and neck) and an on/off for the middle pickup.

How about phase switches? If you arent in a hurry there are other options that could be cool too

**Spook410** · 12-28-2012, 12:48 PM

The few times I've drilled tops (mostly replacing Asian pots and switches with US made replacements) I used a step drill bit with tape marking the right depth on the bit. Worked quite well. I was just making and existing hole bigger. A new location would require a pilot hole.

**GNAPPI** · 12-28-2012, 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by SamBooka

On my emp reg I put wide painter tape over the location (means I can draw on it too to mark the location.) started with a small pilot hole and then used a brad point bit to finish. Actually used the the brad point by hand (no drill first) just to score the finish and get it started.

Not a big deal if you measure 3 times and drill once.

They replace your 5 way with a 3 way (bridge and neck) and an on/off for the middle pickup.

How about phase switches? If you arent in a hurry there are other options that could be cool too

To tell you all the truth, I'm surprised I'm not being flamed for such heresy :-) I wonder in it would be so if I did it to my H575 instead of a $300 Dean Palomino?

I'm also replacing the bridge pup with a P90 replacement bucker, so the push pull will be for it.

With the new pup, varitione (haven't decided if I'm going to keep the tone pot) and additional switch for pup selection this one will go from a very cool guitar, to a tone monster... or not but it will be a LOT of fun diddling with my "improved switchmaster" :-)

I've never made a bit from brass, but the brad point sounds like a good idea as does the step bit. I plan on using a Switchcraft switch like on Les Pauls with a CENTER off, then I can use a blank Rhythm / Treble ring to cover up minor imperfections.

**SamBooka** · 12-28-2012, 01:19 PM

Put Down Your Drill And Step Away From The Palimino Son....

**Patrick2** · 12-28-2012, 03:23 PM

This .50 cal Dessert Eagle should git-ya a right proper hole in that top . . .

**Patrick2** · 12-28-2012, 03:30 PM

HA! Tried to make a funny and cut and paste let me down

**SamBooka** · 12-28-2012, 04:11 PM

Are you saying Heritage are going to make a Desert Eagle model???

**Spook410** · 12-28-2012, 04:21 PM

Originally Posted by SamBooka

Are you saying Heritage are going to make a Desert Eagle model???

(squints like Clint) Do you feel lucky?

**2bornot2bop** · 12-28-2012, 04:29 PM

Originally Posted by Patrick2

This .50 cal Dessert Eagle should git-ya a right proper hole in that top . . .

gorgeous SE! too bad it wasn't a single pup...still a looker 4 sure!

how's Lady Rose doin'?

**Frank67** · 12-28-2012, 05:17 PM

I recommend to use a Fender S1 switch in the volume pot position and a Superswitch in place of the 5 way switch. You get those parts for example from Darren Riley who ships very reliably internationally. This gives you effectively 10 combinations and you can go crazy wit the wiring. There are many wiring diagrams out there on the the internet.

Good luck!
Frank

**Patrick2** · 12-28-2012, 05:41 PM

Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop

gorgeous SE! too bad it wasn't a single pup...still a looker 4 sure!

how's Lady Rose doin'?

The Rose is doing just fine, thank you. In fact, in anticipation of getting this one . . I played the well out of all my other SEs last night. Spent the most time with The Rose. That guitar is sweet, man!