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I've got a mid-level Ibanez with a lot of upgrades: Seymour "Seth Lover" pickup, bone nut, 21:1 Gotoh tuners, TI Benson 12's, compensated bridge conformed to the top, and a reasonable set-up. I say "reasonable" because the fingerboard slopes upward on the bass side past the end of the truss rod, so it can't be adjusted out. I like the guitar itself; comfortable to hold and play, an appealing sound, and nice looking. I'm already upside-down on it, but I don't really care
With all that as preamble, I'm wondering if a refret using Jescar nickel-silver wire would have any noticeable improvement on its tone and response. The existing frets are stock, but they're not really tall enough to level, crown and polish. Either I can continue playing it as-is, or sink some more money into it and get it the way I want it.
So my questions are: 1.) Will I get more clarity and even response with a properly-done refret? and, 2.) If I go that route do I want to have the fretboard re-radiused to 14" to get a slightly flatter fingerboard? or 3.) Any benefit to a compound radius, or is that more of a rock thing to make string bends easier? Your comments and perspectives are greatly appreciated!
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12-19-2025 07:14 PM
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Will I get more clarity and even response with a properly-done refret?
Yes, that is a certainty. Particularly if the neck is PLEKd for the process as it can address/fix the bass side upbow. Your current guitar comes with nickel/silver frets. Nickel/silver or stainless is a genuine choice you have to make, but a more important question in terms of feel is going to be fret size/shape. If you don't have a preference for your current guitar, it is worth playing several guitars to learn what you prefer. It can have a profound effect on how much you like to play that guitar.
As for radius, again it comes down to preference. I have many instruments and have had many many more transitory instruments I did not bond with, (in the 100s over the years). I have a radius preference developed over time, but it also depends on the guitar. IMO compound radius has little to do with genre. If you are a strict jazzer, non bends, it likely won't be noticed but most archtops, compound or not, are 12-14" tops. Unless you are having an issue with the current 12" radius on that Ibanez, I personally would not touch it. The return on investment won't be that much. Ibanez does make a compound radius in the JSM100 for Scofield.
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Thanks very much for your thoughtful and informative reply. I have some Jescar wire I bought years ago for my solid body. It's very narrow and disproportionately high. I think it'd be well suited for my purpose, because I'm using a Dunlop III Jazz black pick.
Originally Posted by Rodney Gene
I'll in all probability defer to your recommendation about the radius. As for the current frets, I can't imagine that the frets on a mid-level Ibanez would be comparable to Jescars, both in terms of metallurgy and consistency of profile. But then I've never sat around and listened to frets.
As for PLEK, it totally depends on the operator. Thanks again!
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A refret can absolutely help. You're free to spec out the size, shape, material, and even change the radius like you said.
Size - get big fat jumbo size unless you don't like it. It's a better feel and lasts longer.
Shape - There's just big fat and wide, and there's also tall and narrow which has a cool feel.
Material - I strongly recommend stainless. It doesn't wear. I don't see how anyone could get a refret with nickel only to have the frets develop divots again after a few months. But some people don't like the sound of ss as it's not as warm, but you can eq it out.
Radius - Compound is ok, but it's harder to work and set up. Imo just a straight radius is better.
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Thanks very much for your perspectives and recommendations. After a little more consideration, I've decided to leave the radius at 12 inches. Why get experimental after all these years? Further up the reply chain I mentioned that I already have some narrow/high Jescar wire. I've never cared for jumbo frets. Just personal preference. Originally Posted by Strat-itis
Lastly, my experience with SS frets was disappointing. I had them installed on a guitar years ago, and they were off the next day. I got some unusual false harmonics and "pinging" with them. Plus they were very hard on my fingertips. In closing, thanks again!
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Personally, I like the feel of stainless steel frets and they don't wear as fast, but it's not a big difference. And, maybe stainless steel frets are a slight bit brighter.
I don't have any stainless steel fretted guitars at the moment, that in itself says a lot.
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I am of the opinion that anything that you do to your own instrument to improve it IN YOUR EYES is a worthwhile addition. Even if it has absolutely no change to the sound, you will enjoy the instrument more and play better on it.
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My Strat came stock with narrow-tall frets and I don't like them. The problem for me is that they stop me from sliding into a note, they are just too high. I have to be conscious of this issue when I play it to avoid the problem but alas, in the heat of a performance, I forget and blow the note. It's like a trap I have to avoid. I play one of my other guitars most times instead.
Tom
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Why do you think the frets aren't tall enough to be dressed? Most people are able to get several fret-dressings out of new frets before needing to refret. If you're not bending strings you should be able to get decades out of a set of frets. If the frets are in OK shape now, I doubt changing the brand of wire will make a noticeable difference. If they're in poor condition and truly need to be replaced, doing that will improve playability and might affect the tone, but that won't be because of changing the brand of fret wire. Originally Posted by buduranus2
If the new frets are significantly taller, that will probably brighten up the tone a bit and sharpen note attack. Ditto for switching to stainless steel, all else equal. I don't think it's possible to say what other effects refretting would have without knowing what problems the guitar has now. It might fix some problems, but not others. Originally Posted by buduranus2
If you like 14" better than 12", sure, but not if you don't. One is not better than the other. I know from experience that I prefer 12" to 16" and to completely flat boards (haven't had a guitar with a 14" fretboard, so grain of salt), so in my case, I'd say no. Plus, in general if it ain't broke don't fix it. That said, planing the fretboard (with or without changing the radius) might mitigate the unevenness you describe above and help you get a better set-up. Originally Posted by buduranus2
It's a preference, not a benefit, as is the case with changes in fret dimensions and fret wire material and fretboard radius. Originally Posted by buduranus2
The way I see it, you have a $500 guitar that can't be set up correctly (if I'm understanding how you describe the neck) and whose tone you don't entirely like (based on you saying you want more clarity and even response even after changing the pickups). Now you want to spend another $400+ refretting it in the hopes that will make it sound and play better. If you want to make these changes for the sake of experimentation, you might luck out and be happier with the result, or at least gain knowledge and experience. But I think it would probably make more sense to put that money into a better guitar.
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[QUOTE=John A.;The way I see it, you have a $500 guitar that can't be set up correctly (if I'm understanding how you describe the neck) and whose tone you don't entirely like (based on you saying you want more clarity and even response even after changing the pickups). Now you want to spend another $400+ refretting it in the hopes that will make it sound and play better. If you want to make these changes for the sake of experimentation, you might luck out and be happier with the result, or at least gain knowledge and experience. But I think it would probably make more sense to put that money into a better guitar.[/QUOTE]
Totally right, I didn't realize it was at that level, I was about to recommend all sorts of things- that I might do on a mid or high level Gibson or Ibanez!
Time to find a better guitar.
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IIRC SS frets felt a little "glassy" compared to nickel silver. So, sonic anomalies notwithstanding, they felt peculiar when bending strings. That's not a consideration for me here, but they were very uncomfortable on my fingertips. Originally Posted by GuyBoden
Personally, I like the feel of stainless steel frets and they don't wear as fast, but it's not a big difference. And, maybe stainless steel frets are a slight bit brighter. I don't have any stainless steel fretted guitars at the moment, that in itself says a lot.
Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. This will be the first time in memory where I'll be completely upside-down on a guitar, with no potential to ever recover what I put in it. So it's really a big step for me. Forget about the money, just get it the way I want it. I'm reminded of a concept in sales: reduce to the ridiculous. If I put $500 into it today and keep the guitar 10 years that's $50 a year or a dollar a week. Originally Posted by nbevan3
I know exactly what you mean. The tall narrow frets I've had on my solid body felt like "speed bumps" when they were first installed. After I got used to that it wasn't a problem. Originally Posted by tpandela
All good observations and well-received. To quote from my OP, "I like the guitar itself; comfortable to hold and play, an appealing sound, and nice looking." To expand, the guitar is very light, a little over five pounds, and is very comfortable to hold and play. The contour of the neck is somewhere in between a '50s Gibson and a '60s SG. I have to work a little bit to get it to give up the goods, and I've found that I'm playing more "correctly" now. Originally Posted by John A.
The tone is very unique. It has an actual acoustic "voice" that's trying to get out. I play it with the pickup volume set at 4 to capture some of that. It's a softer sound than a 175, but with good depth, and a rounded "thunk" and a pleasing sustain. And I especially like the appearance. It's reminiscent of the Scott Chinery "Blue Guitar" collection he commissioned. (Most of which have turned green over time.)
As for the existing frets, they're really kind of low to begin with and not profiled that great. I might be able to get them leveled and crowned (might) but then I'd have a Fretless Wonder. All this aside, I enjoy the guitar, play it every day, and I'm indifferent to putting some more money into it to get it the way I want it.
As an aside, I've had three nice archtops and one pretty good one (two Triggs, a Johnny Smith, and a Vestax D'Angelico NYL.) I couldn't manage the 25-1/2" scale. So I know what a high-line archtop sounds like, which this obviously isn't. But it's well-suited to me so why not go for it? Again, my appreciation for your comments, perspectives and recommendations.
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It takes a very light touch to play on tall, thin frets - more so the lighter your string gauge. Fretting (on any guitar) only requires enough pressure to put the string in firm enough contact with the fret so that it produces the desired note. More than this stretches the string into the space between your finger and the board, driving it sharp. Sliding over a fret into the next note will be harder the more firmly you press the string, because your finger tip is below the next fret's top and bumping into more of it. An advantage of tall, thin frets is that they can be crowned and dressed for more precise intonation than low wide frets. Originally Posted by tpandela
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OP here. I'd like to go to 13's but I'm not sure the neck can withstand the extra tension. I'm using TI Benson 12's and they are much lower tension than D'A Chromes, for example. The depth of tone is much more appealing to me. Wish they made them in 13's. Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
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I cannot see the frets but the guitar looks way to young that it needs a fret. I have guitars I have played a lot for 40 years no where near needing a fret. One should be able to get at least 3 full dressing before getting to a refret just off top of my head. The problem is that players wait until there is huge divots and that make things much harder to do and causes premature fret wear.
This happens I see with some bluegrass heavy players who wear the snot out of the first position and then need new frets but only the first 5. Otherwise you are taking down good fret material for no need. In the case of jazz guitarist, they typically wear out the middle portion of the neck way before the ends. This guitar might do well with a dressing but needs personal inspection by a luthier.
Given the cost of a refret and the guitar itself I would simply go out and buy the guitar I liked. I refret would be expensive for the return and frankly a dressing and set p is going to cost well over $100. I don't know what this guitar runs but I could easily find replacements that were better and not spend a huge amount of change. I see a lot of options given the concern with this guitar and what you want.
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Thanks Mark, but this is the guitar I like. Nothing that money can't take care of. And even if it doesn't come out, at least I went for it. I'm reasonably confident it will, though. Originally Posted by deacon Mark
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I run heavy Bensons with a 75 thou Chrome 7th string on my Ibanez AF207. I bought it new 28 years ago, and it’s carried heavy Chromes and similar strings since I got it. There’s no sign of any problem at all with it - it’s literally like new despite being my main gigging archtop for almost 3 decades. The neck is still perfect. It’s had 2 level / crown / polishes and has at least one more in it. Originally Posted by buduranus2
I can’t imagine that a stock “mid level” Ibanez couldn’t handle JS113s easily. I’m fine with GB114s plus the 75. My tailpiece (like many Ibanez TPs) broke a few months ago. But this is common on many Ibanez archtop models, and it has nothing to do with string gauge. They apparently used very brittle metal in them. Keep an eye on yours - check for cracks or dulling of the finish on it, especially at and around the hinge. Since you love it as much as I do mine, I’d get a better tailpiece for it now.
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Thanks for that. First, what's the difference in smoothness, tension and tone between JS and GB? And, second, the tailpiece on my guitar is an aftermarket. Presumably the original broke, as many of them do. This is the way I got it, and I prefer the look to the original. Lastly, as you imply, sometimes "return on investment" can't be measured in dollars. Best to you! Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
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I think the GB114s feel a little bit smoother than JS113s. Tension is the same for the same size string - look at the TI chart for JS112s vs GB112s. I don't know that the GBs sound any different than the JSs because there are no JS114s and there are no GB113s - so I can't compare the two directly. Originally Posted by buduranus2
The heavier GB114s really woke up the laminated top on my AF207 compared to JS113s and heavy Chromes. Acoustically, they're about the same. But amplified, it's more alive than ever and makes a pretty fair CES tone through the Benedetto B7 I put in it. JS113s did not have the same liveliness through the same pickup.
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