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  1. #1

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    I have an Eastman Ar-810 from (I think) 2016. It has (again, I think) a nitro finish rather than the new type of finish (Truetone or something?) found on newer models.

    I'm generally OK with a guitar getting some scuffs, scratches etc. It's a tool and not a piece of art. That being said, I've collected a few marks where the finish has been dinged (most of them caused by my toddler swinging the pointy end of a mandolin in a less than cautious manner when we were "playing guitar" together). One or two may have been caused by me bumping into the corner of a table while practicing, so it's not all the child's fault!

    They look like this (it's hard to capture in a picture):
    Dings/scuffs in nitro finish-finish-dings-png

    Does anyone know of a simple way to fix this sort of thing? The dings are not deep: I think it's the damage to the finish that makes them so visible (none of them seem so severe as really to have dented the wood itself). They only feel slightly rough to the touch.

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  3. #2

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    I looked this up when I got my first ding on the classical... and got to the conclusion that it's more hassle than it's worth.
    You can polish it, use a similar finish, some sort of filler and even superglue and a razorblade (!!!).

    I would consider professional help if it would be a massive scratch that severely affects the look of an instrument. Otherwise, for this kind of thing - like you said - live with it, it's a tool, albeit a beautiful one.

  4. #3

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    This’ll do the trick.

  5. #4

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    I have to say: that looks like the sort of thing I would make a mess of. However, I'll keep it mind if ever I find the urge to fix these dings overwhelming (as you did yours). Thanks!

  6. #5

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    Take a tooth pick and paint thinner and put a droplet on the blemish.

    If it’s nitro, the finish will soften and reflow with the thinner. Once the thinner evaporates the nitro will harden again.

    You can even repeat this a couple of times .

    Deeper dents need to have to wood lifted with a damp cloth and some heath from an iron first.

    With a drop of clear nitro and some buffing it can be made invisible.

  7. #6

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    If it‘s Nitro a small(!) drop of acetone followed by a small(!) drop paint (nitro!), applied with a toothpick into the „crater“. This will melt the „dong“ together. Let dry for a day and apply a small(!) drop of superglue (clear super flowing type). Let dry, at least for a day. After the glue is hard you can sand down the repair carefully flat and polish to gloss. Not that easy, but if it’s done right the fault is invisible.

  8. #7

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    IMO, the chances of a DIY repair making those dings invisible are next to nothing. The chances of making them look worse are exponentially greater. I would let a pro do the work, and even then, "invisible" is a lofty goal.

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by FourOnSix
    IMO, the chances of a DIY repair making those dings invisible are next to nothing. The chances of making them look worse are exponentially greater. I would let a pro do the work, and even then, "invisible" is a lofty goal.
    That‘s why „not so easy“. But no rocket science.

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Eff
    If it‘s Nitro a small(!) drop of acetone followed by a small(!) drop paint (nitro!), applied with a toothpick into the „crater“. This will melt the „dong“ together. Let dry for a day and apply a small(!) drop of superglue (clear super flowing type). Let dry, at least for a day. After the glue is hard you can sand down the repair carefully flat and polish to gloss. Not that easy, but if it’s done right the fault is invisible.
    That’s the same as my method (paint thinner and acetone both dissolve nitro).

    Not too sure about the superglue though… I only do that on poly finishes… it works on nitro as well??
    Last edited by Little Jay; 09-16-2025 at 02:09 AM.

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by FourOnSix
    IMO, the chances of a DIY repair making those dings invisible are next to nothing. The chances of making them look worse are exponentially greater. I would let a pro do the work, and even then, "invisible" is a lofty goal.
    I’ve done it s few times and it works like a charm. Nitro is super easy to work with. Too bad the fumes are so unhealthy…..

  12. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan Eff
    That‘s why „not so easy“. But no rocket science.
    Here’s how easy it is! For real!


  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Jay
    That’s the same as my method (paint thinner and acetone both dissolve nitrogen).

    Not too sure about the superglue though… I only do that on poly finishes… it works on nitro as well??
    Yes, no problem.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by FourOnSix
    IMO, the chances of a DIY repair making those dings invisible are next to nothing. The chances of making them look worse are exponentially greater. I would let a pro do the work, and even then, "invisible" is a lofty goal.
    Look at the before and after pics in the OP on the linked post in this thread’s post #3. I think the improvement is impressive. These sticks are on sale again right now, so I ordered an amber one and will do the few marks in the lighter areas.

    The solvent in these nitro touch up pens works like acetone or thinner to dissolve the finish around the edges of the defect and let them flow into the bare spot. But there’s a little pigment mixed in that adds just enough color. A toothpick works OK, but I think it’s too thick for best blending. That’s why I use a very very fine tip brush and magnification.

    It may not be perfect, but it’s very very good.

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by FourOnSix
    IMO, the chances of a DIY repair making those dings invisible are next to nothing. The chances of making them look worse are exponentially greater.
    I think I'm inclined to agree, especially given that it's me who'd be doing the work!

  16. #15

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    You know how to make a few dings on the guitar stop bothering you? Add more dings in cosmetically appealing places. You stop caring after about the 10th ding. Embrace the Relic Movement.