Setup on Peerless Cremona 17 questions

[Lkdog]

Well, I finally picked up another hollowbody after a lot of input and help here from members.

Got a used Peerless Cremona 17 in excellent condition and am learning about getting the best tone out of it.

Overall very impressed with this guitar. Has a great acoustic quality that allows one to play without an amp if they want.
It has a carved maple top- not sure if that is hand carved or pressed but it sounds very nice to me unplugged.

The first couple days I found the flatwound D'Addario 11's a big switch from my usual 10 roundwounds I play on solidbody electrics.
Am getting used to them gradually. Will likely experiment with various strings.

Had a real eye (and ear) opener yesterday when I tried a Dunlop JAZZ III 1.35mm pick.
It really changes the tone to what I like when I listen to jazz archtop players I like (Burrell, Andy Brown, etc).
Creates a fuller thicker tone.

My questions

1) It came with a TOM bridge on the wooden floating platform (most of the Cremonas I have seen have wooden bridges). I want to try an ebony bridge also just to hear if that is something I like.
Peerless does not list the radius of the neck . Chicago Music Exchange has one listed and says it has a "14 radius.
Does anyone know what it actually is? Does it matter when I look for a an Ebony bridge?

2) Any suggestions on a reasonably priced ebony bridge?

3) What is best way to notch the bridge?

Thanks for any input.

[garybaldy]

Well, I finally picked up another hollowbody after a lot of input and help here from members.

Got a used Peerless Cremona 17 in excellent condition and am learning about getting the best tone out of it.

Overall very impressed with this guitar. Has a great acoustic quality that allows one to play without an amp if they want.
It has a carved maple top- not sure if that is hand carved or pressed but it sounds very nice to me unplugged.

The first couple days I found the flatwound D'Addario 11's a big switch from my usual 10 roundwounds I play on solidbody electrics.
Am getting used to them gradually. Will likely experiment with various strings.

Had a real eye (and ear) opener yesterday when I tried a Dunlop JAZZ III 1.35mm pick.
It really changes the tone to what I like when I listen to jazz archtop players I like (Burrell, Andy Brown, etc).
Creates a fuller thicker tone.

My questions

1) It came with a TOM bridge on the wooden floating platform (most of the Cremonas I have seen have wooden bridges). I want to try an ebony bridge also just to hear if that is something I like.
Peerless does not list the radius of the neck . Chicago Music Exchange has one listed and says it has a "14 radius.
Does anyone know what it actually is? Does it matter when I look for a an Ebony bridge?

2) Any suggestions on a reasonably priced ebony bridge?

3) What is best way to notch the bridge?

Thanks for any input.

You can't go wrong with this ebony bridge. I have one of their rosewood bridges. Guitar Bridge Ebony Archtop style with Golden Hardware Best Quality 6 string | eBay UK

[sgosnell]

The radius of the ebony saddle should be a tiny bit flatter than the neck radius, because the strings fan out from the nut to the bridge. I wouldn't worry about the exact radius all that much, because the saddle can be re-radiused easily enough. I prefer just stringing up the guitar with the new bridge in place, making sure the bridge is centered between the f holes, moving the strings so that they cross directly over each polepiece, and tap lightly on the strings over the bridge to just barely mark the location. The slots only need to be deep enough to just hold the strings in place, but some may need deepening to get the radius right, so that all the strings are the same distance above the highest fret. It's sort of a fiddly judgement call, and things can be changed later if necessary. The nut slots also need to have the same depths, for playability and intonation, and I have no idea how accurate yours are. It makes a difference, though.

I've bought bridges from ebay, Stew-Mac, and many other places, and haven't found a huge difference. Most are acceptable to me. The base does need to be fitted to the top unless you can find a saddle that fits the base you have. The spacing between the posts of wooden bridges is all over the place, and some will fit a standard TOM base while most won't quite make it. There is no standard at all that I've ever seen. Look for a bridge that claims to have the same spacing as a Gibson TOM, buy the entire bridge, and don't bother with the base if the saddle will fit your base. If it won't, use the new base and fit it to the top of your guitar. Sandpaper and elbow grease are required, along with double-sided tape.

Both pick material and thickness affect the tone, and that's a very deep rabbit hole to start down into. Fortunately, picks are among the cheapest guitar accessories, even if you buy the expensive ones. I have more picks than I can count, and I still haven't found the ideal pick for every guitar/amp/room combination.

[skiboyny]

Give Guitars n Jazz a holler. I'm sure they could hook you up with a wood bridge top that would fit your peerless and will already be notched.

[Lkdog]

Ordered this from Amazon. Will see how it works out.

Amazon.com

[nyc chaz]

Ordered this from Amazon. Will see how it works out.

Amazon.com

A lot of those bridges sold on Amazon are not really ebony, especially the ones made in China.The good thing with Amazon is you can return it.My experience with bridges in general is you get what you pay for.

[strumcat]

...The good thing with Amazon is you can return it....

If the item is marked "Sold by Amazon" and "Shipped from Amazon", this is true. If it isn't, you're at the mercy of the third-party seller concerning return privileges. I learned this the hard way.

[Lkdog]

I am Prime member. Free returns.
Not expecting a high end product, but can give me an idea if I like a wooden bridge as compared to the TOM.

[skiboyny]

I am Prime member. Free returns.
Not expecting a high end product, but can give me an idea if I like a wooden bridge as compared to the TOM.

It's a good start. The two feet will probably match your top ok saving you some work. I never could warm up to the TOM gives the strings a ping sound that I just don't like. Wood is always better for me. They all sound a bit different. Good luck with it

[garybaldy]

Ordered this from Amazon. Will see how it works out.

Amazon.com

This is the same product as I suggested in post #2. They are made in India by (Ebay seller) violin - india. You won't be disappointed. I have the rosewood version. You can't go wrong for the price.

[Lkdog]

A brief update on more setup tweaks FWIW.

I was getting a kind of boomy lower end and decided to adjust the pickup height.
It was around 3/32 to 4/32 on low and high E when I got this. Also pickup was not level with top of guitar.

I went lower to 6/32. Made a noticeable difference in tone in a good way to my ears.
Warmer and more of the guitar hollowbody sems to come through for lack of a better way to describe it. Clearer lower end.
Less twang on high end. Easier to get a balanced tone. Still have the D'addario flat chrome 11's on it.
I use an AXE FX 3 so can try various traditional Fender amps.
Liking the Deluxe Reverb and Vibrolux right now.

I really am enjoying this guitar.

[Little Jay]

A lot of those bridges sold on Amazon are not really ebony, especially the ones made in China.The good thing with Amazon is you can return it.My experience with bridges in general is you get what you pay for.

I think you are right…. But I personally like a little softer wood than ebony for my bridges (mellows the tone a bit more) so it might work out just fine!

I installed several $10 bridges on guitars of mine and was very pleased with the results.

Here’s one on my Ibanez AF55, that was sold as rosewood btw:


Now we’ll have to see if they withstand the test of time

[2bornot2bop]

Of course it’s a pressed top at that price. But still it’s a very nice guitar. I’ve owned 4 of them in both 16” and 17” over the years.

[Lkdog]

I got the wooden bridge yesterday and replaced my entire base and bridge as the new bridge did not quite drop onto the stock base posts.

After a little bit of adjustment as to placement on the archtop to match the scale length and which side of the base worked best to achieve best preferred action height (4/64 to 5/64), I got it settled in.
The build quality tolerances are not perfect. LOL.

It sounds good!
A little warmer than the TOM which was already fine actually.

The action is good, but I have the thumbscrews on the posts all the way down.
Surprisingly the intonation is very close even roughed in right now.
The base doesn't match the archtop curvature exactly but not bad.

I did not put notches in as I do not have the proper tools to get it exact.

Dropped it off at the luthier I use who is very good to handle the notching and string spacing and any sanding needed on the base or the bridge.

I think it will work out well.

[Lkdog]

Of course it’s a pressed top at that price. But still it’s a very nice guitar. I’ve owned 4 of them in both 16” and 17” over the years.

Am impressed with the build quality and enjoying it a lot so far.