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Until recently I’ve never owned an archtop guitar. I’ve always played guitars with tune-o-matic style bridges or Telecasters. The process of changing strings on an archtop, a d’Angelico SS Soho in my case, is a mystery to me. I have a few questions…yes there are dumb questions.
1. Is the wooden bridge attached to the body or do I need to secure it somehow when changing strings?
2. Do I load the new strings through the bottom of the tailpiece ie. do I slip the ball end of the string under the tailpiece until it’s locked in place?
3. Is there an online resource that I could refer to?
As I say, all I know about these guitars is that they sound nice. Everything else is a mystery. This forum seems like a good place to learn about this important stuff.
Best regards
Tim, Toronto
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07-12-2025 10:24 AM
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1. No. Change one string at a time.
2. Yes.
3. You're there .
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I appreciate your help. Now I can get on with it
Tim
Originally Posted by 58flame
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You can find a video about practically any subject on YouTube, and this one is no exception.
For example:
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If you are putting round-core strings on your guitar, you need to watch a video to make sure you know how to put a bend in the strings. You can't just cut them.
Stringjoy has a good video on youtube on how to do it.
Also, get a string winder if you don't already have one. Your wrist will thank you.
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I don't change mine one at a time. I like to take them all off, wipe things down, clean up the fretboard, treat the board if needed, etc. Then I put on the new set.
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But, only every 6 months. Originally Posted by Woody Sound
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What you talking about a bend in the strings? Originally Posted by Freddels
Also, not trying to argue, but if you need a string winder you might be using too many wraps. You don’t need a lot at all.
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Originally Posted by 58flame
There's only a few wraps on the post (string length is about 1.5 inches past the post).
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Locking Machine Heads for me nowadays.
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This is a bit embarassing, but I recently took my Gibson Citation in to St. Paul Guitar Repair to have them go over it and tune it up (not getting it in tune, but setup adjustments). Michelle discovered that the bridge was on backwards! That is what can happen when you take all the strings off and the bridge comes off. I have not had to change strings yet, so this must have happened with the original owner. I only change one string at a time on any of my guitars, whether acoustic (flat top) or archtop.
Tony
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Thanks for clearing that up.
Bending the string only matters on vintage split shaft tuners like on a Fender, and you have to bend the string anyway. Regular tuners no difference. The tuners on the OP’s D’Angelico are not the split type.
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I put two short lengths of 3M #8402 polyester tape (aka "artist's tape" or "draftsman's tape") over the feet of the bridge to hold it in place when I remove all the strings. This allows me to also do a quick cleaning/polishing of the body & fingerboard before I install the new strings, and the #8402 tape will not leave any residue, so it's good for even the most fragile finishes. Originally Posted by TimDaniels
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Here are some points to understand.
If the intonation is correct, then you can use masking tape to tape bridge in place and change strings all at once. You can also use masking take to reference the bridge as it sits on the guitar if it gets moved.
If the intonation is not correct, then you need to set the bridge in the proper place. All guitarists should be able to take the bridge off their archtop and put it back on correctly no matter what the situation. The only going process of changing strings routinely is to simply change them one at a time.
Using your guitars scale length you place the saddle the same distance as the nut to the 12th fret. Because of compensation required add about 1/16 of an inch to this figure for the high E string and about 3/16 for the low E string. This would be for a 25 inch scale length but it can vary slightly. This will get you in the very close ballpark.
String the guitar up and check the intonation and then make any small adjustments as needed. Bottom line is you the player should fully be able to do this yourself if somehow the bridge needs to come off for whatever reason. Finally sight down the body of the guitar from bridge and saddle to get it in the middle of the fingerboard using the strings for reference on each side.
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Originally Posted by tbeltrans
I bought one of these not long ago -- Amazon.co.jp
The first time I changed the strings I took the metal bridge off to clean the guitar, and when I went to put it back on I realized that I wasn't sure which side was its front and which was its back. I had to find a close up picture of the bridge to figure it out.
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I also prefer to take all the strings off and wipe and clean the fingerboard, do minor fret polishing as needed, and generally look things over. It's somewhat amazing to see how much gunk builds up around the frets. It doesn't really affect playability, but it's nasty. I've done it enough times to be able to eyeball the position of the bridge when I reinstall it, and then set the intonation. Most archtops that are at least a few years old will have at least faint markings in the finish to show where the bridge has been, and that gives a starting point. I tend to change string brands, types, compositions, etc more often than necessary, because I still haven't tried all the strings out there, and I might find something better than what I've been using. It doesn't happen often, but it's possible, so I keep trying new strings. This means the intonation, thus bridge position, can and does change slightly almost every time I do a string change. So I just don't bother to tape or even mark the bridge position. But that's just the way I do it, not something I would ever insist anyone else would do. Plus I'm just an inveterate tinkerer, and I like to readjust things. But I do see value in cleaning the fretboard occasionally, and in knowing how to set the intonation afterward. That's just basic stuff, not that much different, nor more difficult, than tuning the strings. A decent strobe tuner makes it easier.
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I write a 'T' on the treble side underneath the bridge. It avoids confusion when putting the bridge back..
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I use(d) a whiteboard marker to outline the position of the bridge.
The line(s) can be effectively minimized and, anyway, will readily come off once the job is done.
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Bill Barker when he made is guitars would always mark the bass side of the bridge with a small hole with an awl. This was his way for knowing how the bridge sits on the guitar. I do this now with all guitars of mine and I work on if not already done. Originally Posted by GuyBoden
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I just place a piece of tape along one side of the bridge to mark it. But I also change strings sometimes. In any case I always check the intonation anyway.
I use blue painter's tape, and I would be interested if anything works better/is safer, although I've not had a problem.
In my experience, fingerboards don't need cleaning all that often, I don't mind a bit of gunk, maybe every 2-3 restrings.
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Do you do this even with compensated wooden bridges? Originally Posted by deacon Mark
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Short answer = YES Originally Posted by bluejaybill
S
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This is a very good thread - and useful, even for those of us who are mostly comfortable working on our guitars
I generally adopt the 'one string at a time' mantra but when I do take them all off (to clean the neck, for example) - I certainly find that painter's tape is helpful for the bridge
I have two follow up points, and questions:
1) When I have taken all of the strings off and put them back on again. I usually find that I need to tweak the truss rod to add some tension back into the neck. I am guessing this is normal?
2) Does anybody do anything in particular re: the tailpiece when they take all of the strings off? I just put a soft cloth between the tailpiece and top to prevent damage. Should I be doing anything else?
TIA
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I put small thin felt pads underneath my tailpieces, so that they don't scratch the top. Originally Posted by lesyeuxnoirs
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