German Fasan?

[garybaldy]

This just came knocking on my door and I let it in!! Was told it's a Fasan.
Any info would be appreciated.
Needs some TLC. One of the budget ones I think.
Looks to have a non adjustable rod.

[palindrome]

Apparently, FASAN is short for Franz Sandner, born 1903.

Franz Sandner | "Es ruht ein Leben in den Saiten und Geister wohnen in dem Klang." Emil Rittershaus

Guitars | Franz Sandner

Schlaggitarren.de – Hersteller

Fasan (=pheasant) being a pun, BTW.

[supersoul]

Beautiful! The binding is cool.
This one looks like it could be a cutaway version of yours:
Fasan 1960 – Lacquercracks

[garybaldy]

Beautiful! The binding is cool.
This one looks like it could be a cutaway version of yours:
Fasan 1960 – Lacquercracks

That's nice. Great with the cutaway.
I was struck by the binding for some odd reason. Edit - and the rims.
It's my first German built guitar. Now I have a bigger itch!!

[garybaldy]

Apparently, FASAN is short for Franz Sandner, born 1903.

Franz Sandner | "Es ruht ein Leben in den Saiten und Geister wohnen in dem Klang." Emil Rittershaus

Guitars | Franz Sandner

Schlaggitarren.de – Hersteller

Fasan (=pheasant) being a pun, BTW.

Thanks for the info. This could be another obsession!

[Woody Sound]

How does it sound? Could it cut a big band?

[garybaldy]

How does it sound? Could it cut a big band?

I haven't got to know it yet and I personally need heavier strings (as long as the neck can take it!).
Comparing it to my Loar 700, I don't think it's quite as loud and being as I have to play the Loar amplified ( mini floater an polytone) in my 5 piece old time jazz band, I doubt very much if the Fasan would 'cut it' in a big band (unamplified)!

This guitar was very cheap, especially as it came with a substantial case.

But your question prompted me to google-search 'guitar volume in a big band'.
There were, and not unexpected, quite a few threads from this forum, one thread of which was started by your good self!!
I read many, yes many, posts on the subject and to all intents and purposes, everyone either plugs in or has as least a mic.
It doesn't appear to be much of a thing these days.
I've done gypsy jazz guitar and double bass unplugged, but other than with a duo it's very hard work and not worth the effort.

[Hammertone]

Remove the strange shim from under the bridge and raise the saddle.

[RJVB]

Fasan is also the German word for pheasant

Comparing it to my Loar 700, I don't think it's quite as loud

Hard to tell for sure from your photos, but the bridge looks like it's standing on at least 1 additional piece of a different kind of wood which is also not mating the top very well. Maybe there is some room for optimisation here?

[garybaldy]

Fasan is also the German word for pheasant



Hard to tell for sure from your photos, but the bridge looks like it's standing on at least 1 additional piece of a different kind of wood which is also not mating the top very well. Maybe there is some room for optimisation here?

Yeah, there's a couple of things to do to it. The spacer doesn't follow the body contour! Definitely needs doing. It has a good neck angle though (unlike some Loars) but I'm not sure why the saddle is at its lowest. Perhaps whoever couldn't be bothered to use a thinner spacer! Don't think the top has sunk. I'm going to try and take some photos through the F holes.

[garybaldy]

Remove the strange shim from under the bridge and raise the saddle.

Yes, that will be done.
I've only had it a day!
An inch or 2 of binding is loose by the neck bass side. Can you recommend the right glue please?

[Hammertone]

Hide glue will do the job nicely.
White glue will do the job nicely.
Super glue will do the job nicely.
I suppose it depends on your skill level with any of the above.

[garybaldy]

Hide glue will do the job nicely.
White glue will do the job nicely.
Super glue will do the job nicely.
I suppose it depends on your skill level with any of the above.

Thanks
Just been having a closer look before I go to bed! It's 2am.
The high E string is like a sitar. Easily worked out to be the zero fret - the nut slot needs to be taken down a smidgen.
The bridge doesn't seem to be original as there's no small hole for the pickguard pin as there is on the side of the neck. I've seen a pic on the internet which shows the two pins and I'm assuming that to be an original. The bridge is two footed. I'm hoping I can raise the saddle enough to do away with the shim which is probably 5mm thick.
The inside of the body, although dusty, seems very neat and no staining or glue everywhere. The timber, considering it's 60+ years old looks new.
There are no kerfed linings and no bracing on the back.
Two parallel braces on the top which are sited at the bridge feet.
I can't quite understand the need for a TRC as there is only the end of a square bar showing.
The neck is made up of 7 laminated strips.
With my 2mm pick I'm getting to like the sound of this guitar!

[Hammertone]

Fun, cheap West German archtop. Thousands of similar laminated archtops with and without cutaways were made in the 1950s and early 1960s. They can be perfectly playable, nice sounding instruments, great with pickups added. The outsourced neck blank on that Fasan is a nicer one, typically used on higher-end guitars.

[garybaldy]

Fun, cheap West German archtop. Thousands of similar laminated archtops with and without cutaways were made in the 1950s and early 1960s. They can be perfectly playable, nice sounding instruments, great with pickups added. The outsourced neck blank on that Fasan is a nicer one, typically used on higher-end guitars.

Interesting info esp. about the neck. There's probably a tad more relief than I would normally have which I'll have to live with. I may take off the 11s and try 12s. I have a spare set of monels that were going on my Loar but I using 13s on that now.
Would you ultimately suggest round or flat wounds? The guitar is quite bright sounding.
There's plenty of room for a floater.

[garybaldy]

Hello. I have owned a 1959 Rodebald Hoyer “Samba” 17” acoustic archtop for a few years. It is a great player’s guitar. It also does not have a truss rod/adjustable neck. The neck is straight with very slight relief. I have tried .012 flat wounds and .012 Monel.
The fw strings have a little more bass and round sound than the monels. The monels are warmer and seem more balanced. I prefer the monels over the fw strings. The monels do tend to suffer string noise when playing though.

I am going to put a set of D’Addario ej11 80/20 bronze .012’s ext. I suspect I will stay with the 80/20’s.
I wouldn’t use anything lighter than .012’s. The .012’s really drive the top nicely.

The fingerboard radius on my guitar is 7.25” so I had my repair person make a new ebony bridge/saddle. Shouldn’t be an expensive modification or fix if your bridge needs replaced. Just check radius before replacing.

Vintage German guitars can be a lot of fun. They have the vintage mojo and sound we love. You can gig with them w/o worrying as much about player wear or decreasing the value either.

Thanks for your comments.
This is my 3rd guitar without an adjustable TR. The other 2 are gypsy jazz guitars. As I have mentioned previously I don't know why the Fasan has TR access at the headstock if it's not adjustable. I guess the neck laminations help with stability.
I shall be going with the Monel 12s to start with.
Current nothing stands out as being a problem with the neck and bridge (other than the crude shim which I will sort). There's no choking to speak of at any fret.
I've been looking at German guitars for a while since a friend of mine picked up a very nice, very loud Hofner Congress. There's a certain 'basic - ness' to them that I really like. On the other hand, my brother has a President which is unplayable.

[garybaldy]

Since buying my Fasan my 'fasanation' with German archtops has become almost fanatical.
Here's another Fasan for sale in the UK.
I was wondering if it once had a zero fret. Looks like the nut may have been moved.
Can't quite tell if the rod is adjustable.
Nice looking guitar - may be a refinish?