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Looking for something in the sub-$1000 range, preferably sub $750, as this will not be my main guitar, but there's a few opportunities I have coming up where I'll need a plug-in-able nylon string, and I don't have one right now (save for a Yamaha Silent Guitar whose on/off switch has gone wonky)
Does not need to be a traditional body, cutaways are cool, but no narrow "crossover" style necks. I'd like it to function as an acoustic guitar as well as plugged in.
Yamaha was definitely something I was interested in, as I think they make great budget classical guitars...but I'm out of the loop on this style in general, so I'm looking for any and all suggestions.
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11-07-2022 12:20 PM
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This model is very interesting and not expensive.
Cort AC160CF | Classic Series Acoustic Guitar
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Sounds ok...his playing is great.
Originally Posted by kris
Seems like this guitar might not be marketed in the U.S?
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I also have a Yamaha Silent Nylon (the original model) with unreliable hardware. My guess is that all the switches and jacks are soldered into the board and subject to mechanical stress. So, I have to open it up and reheat the solder joints on all that hardware. Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
But I haven't done that yet. In case you have, any tips on opening it?
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I have not...I'm actually the world's worst solderer. So I generally don't mess with electronics. Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
It's actually ok for now-- I just use the AC adaptor. It's my "quiet practice in my classroom guitar."
I also have a purely acoustic nylon string, but for the upcoming purposes, this next guitar will need to be both acoustic and electric.
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DEALERS 1 Page > Cort Guitars and Basses | Electric Guitars, Basses & Amplifier Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
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Well, I just did it. So, here's what I learned which may be helpful to someone. Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
There are 8 screws that hold the plastic cover on. Two of them, apparently, are wood screws. I didn't keep track of where they went, but I think by the end pin. I would recommend keeping track of where each screw came from. When you reassemble, it will be important to have the machine screws in the four spots near the center of the cover. Apparently, the ground connection is maintained through those screws (between the stuff attached to the cover and the stuff attached to the guitar). BTW, the 8 screws are pretty tight - get the good Phillips of the right size out of your toolbox.
With the cover off, you can see the board, but you're looking at the wrong side for soldering. It is held in by two screws. They come out easily enough. You have to remove one of the wiring harnesses (if I'm using that term correctly) from the connector. Wiggle it out gently.
Then, take the knobs off (they're tight but they slide off).
Now, you can try to turn the board over. The geometry of the board and the case suggests that it's impossible. But, somehow it suddenly snapped out. You may need to take out a second harness/connector thingie.
On the other side, you can see where the hardware is soldered in. Mostly, it's the bigger, squarish patches. You don't need to solder, at least not exactly. Just get the iron hot (I used a 30 watt) and touch the tip to the square until you see the solder melt. Then, on to the next one. That's it for soldering.
Turn the board back over. It was not obvious to me how to get it back into the space it came out of. I fiddled this way and that and it eventually popped in. I don't know what I did to cause that.
Reconnect the wiring harness (I took out two).
What I did then was put in a couple of screws at either end and test it. I was thinking that I'd check it before screwing in the other 6 screws to save time in case I needed to reopen it.
It hummed horribly. Eventually I figured out that I could eliminate the hum by connecting an alligator clip from the jack cover on my cable to the metal parts that the middle 4 screws go into. So, I figured the screws were part of the common grounding system. Or, they held the thing in the right position so something else completed the ground.
So, I screwed in all 8 screws and it works fine.
Should have done it years ago. Took about 45 minutes.
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I know a guy who has one of these. I've played it think it sounds good amplified.
Cordoba C5-CE, Nylon String Acoustic-Electric Guitar - Cedar | Sweetwater
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Ibanez GA34STCE. Usually around $350.
Gear | Reverb
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Never tried one, but heard very good things about Taylor nylon models - I believe there's a few in that price range.
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I have some really nice classicals, but for plugging in, my trusty Takamine EC-132 has never failed me. I bought it new around 1990. They came with both spruce and cedar tops. I’ve seen them all the time in the $600 range.
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ESP TL-6N? $699.
Amazon.com
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So you want a full-width neck, with a flat classical fretboard (and is that somehow related to "functioning as an acoustic")? Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
If it weren't for that I'd suggest you look at the Cort Gold-OC8 N .
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How narrow would you define crossover neck? Anything less than 52mm or is 48mm okay?
If acoustic volume is not a priority, a good option at the top of your price range is a used Godin Duet Ambience or Encore (Grand Concert models if you want 52mm nut). And if you can find one, a Godin Telecoustic/Acousticlassic can sometimes be found in your range as well (I own one and love it dearly). Nelson Veras uses one to great effect.
If you want something with an actual resonant body, then @Dave70’s suggestion for a Cordoba and @Encinitastubes’ on an older Tak EC132 are excellent.
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I'm pretty sure the ESP nylon has a skinny neck. I was looking at them for a while. Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
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Function as an acoustic means it's simply an acoustic guitar. Not a plank with nylon strings, like the Godin (which are great, just not the route I want to go) Originally Posted by RJVB
Lots of good options here, thanks folks. The local guitar big box store carries Cordoba, so ill be able to try them out. Should have the Ibanez too, I hope.
Also got contacted by an old student who is going to let me try out his Yamaha NTX for a bit, which is what I thought I didn't want neck wise but it will be cool to try. I'm not sure what my cutoff is neck wise, I just know I played a Godin "slim" a few years ago and it felt "too different " from a classical.
The Corts don't seem to be around, not sure what's up with that.
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Ok, I get it. The “slim” model is like 43mm which is a huge difference. 48mm necks are different yet comfortably familiar—at least in my opinion. Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
One last suggestion: if you’re okay with used, look for a great classical in your price range and have a Barbera or Baggs LB6 installed. Classicalguitardelcamp.com forum might have useful information for finding acoustics in that range (they seem to eschew talking much about electrics, though).
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I had an NTX. Sounded nice, but the odd shaped body body felt awkward to me. And I think had a thinner neck. The NCX series is more traditional. I think the basic model goes for around $450.
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I got that part, just wasn't sure if for you it was somehow coupled to the kind of neck (given how your OP was worded). Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
The 48mm nutwidth on my Cordoba appears to give enough space not to be overly cramped playing classical repertoire (I think it's a common width on early romantic guitars, btw). Interestingly the string spacing is just about equal as on my converted resonator (1.75" nutwidth) where I do have some issues, also with the A string slapping against its neighbours when I play it hard. That must be due to the string spacing at the saddle which is apparently more or less standard classical (its saddle is) on the Cordoba but not at all on the resonator.
Strange that the Corts aren't available in the US at the moment; most demo videos were US-made as far as I remember (including one or two with Gretchen Menn ... maybe ask via the comments under her YT video?)
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Posting videos or other recordings of guitars producing non-acoustic sounds is forbidden (I think that's the best nutshell summary of the list of forbidden things). Talking about them is OK, and I expect you can get opinions what embedded means of amplification give the best results (but "best" will probably mean "sounding the most natural"). Originally Posted by Caboverde
Anyway, if a 48mm nut width could be OK you might also consider the Breedlove nylon guitars. There are at least 2 under $1000 I think (including one with lovely Myrtlewood B&S).
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Oooh, those Breedloves are sexy.
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Thanks for clarifying that! Originally Posted by RJVB
Yeah, those Breedloves look great.
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Wait until you string them with fishnet stockings Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
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If I remember correctly, the NTX neck is surprisingly not -that- slim. It's a great "beater" nylon guitar!
Obviously, I'm biased as a (former) Altamria salesman and owner, but they make some great guitars for the money.
- N100 E - Standard student-grade guitar with pickup
- N200CE - Same but a step up aesthetically and with cutaway
- N300CTS - My favorite slim-body nylon guitar. I love this model.
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Originally Posted by mr quick
Altamira N300CT+ 2021 | Reverb
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