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Updated:
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Sorry, guys, I didn't figure out how to upload pictures on my phone yesterday, and I just got access to my computer.
I just found the root cause of this issue. The fingerrest is only attached to that wood base joint, and the two soft block (not sure if they are sponges or something) on the other side of the fingerrest are not contacting the body of the guitar. So if the fingerrest is under high pressure, it will break at the wood base joint.
This is the first time I experience this type of fingerrest, so I wonder is it supposed to be like that? Only one side contacting the body?
Thank you for answering my question.
Original post:
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Hi, everyone, this is my first post in the forum.
I received my first archtop guitar yesterday. It's an Eastman AR503CE. I really like it, but when I opened the case, the fingerrest was parted from the base joint. I've asked the shop and they said they are going to ask the eastman warehouse to see if they have a replacement.
In the meantime, does anyone know how to fix this? I've tried to glue it back by using Titebond, but it'll break again everytime I put it into the case.Last edited by yifei3212; 05-23-2019 at 08:27 PM.
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05-22-2019 07:39 PM
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Post some pics
Originally Posted by yifei3212
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Can you give more detail? Where exactly is the break, and from what part?
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The AR503CE normally has an unbound ebony finger rest. There's a small block of ebony under the finger rest. Two screws go through that block into the side of the neck.
I think the OP is trying to glue two pieces of ebony together.
Danielle
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Titebond would glue ebony together but need to see a picture.
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Sorry, I didn't find out how to upload pictures on my phone. I've updated the OP. Thanks.
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Sorry, I didn't find out how to upload pictures on my phone. I've updated the OP. This is exactly what I wanna do! Just wonder is it supposed to have only one side of the fingerrest contacting the body? Originally Posted by DanielleOM
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Broke in delivery. Call the rep for Eastman by you, I have the rep's email for the East Coast if you need it. Yes, Eastmans are built in China--blah, blah, blah.
You know what, Eastman has the best customer service I've ever encountered for any company--period.
My first Eastman 803--the truss rod sunk into the neck--ugh, a friggen horror story. I emailed the rep, brought it back to Guitars n' Jazz--and they replaced it--no questions.
In the meantime, this could be an opportunity to get a feel for playing without a pick guard. Additionally, Eastman still doesn't know how to make pickguards--they are always set way too high and close to the high E--it never felt comfortable to me (even on the newer models).
But, yeah--email the rep
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That one looks slightly different than the one I have. On the one I have I just have one ebony block that is held to the neck (fret board extension) with long screws. On the one i have it is not attached to the guitar top. I do have the soft supports as you show in the photo. I actually trimmed those back slightly so that they do not touch the guitar top unless one puts pressure on the finger rest. Originally Posted by yifei3212
On your photo it almost looks like you have two piece block, as I see that piece under the finger rest and there still seems to be another piece attached to the (fret board extension ?)
To answer your question, the one I have is only attached to the guitar at one place.
You might want to review the case fit for that guitar, as you say it's coming detached while in the case.
Perhaps someone with experience here can respond. If you do a google search for gluing ebony to ebony you will see varying opinions on best glue, and preparation of the surfaces, room temperature, before gluing.
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this is public domain, so I don't think it should be a problem to post here:
Mark Herring
Fretted Instruments – Product Specialist
Eastman Guitars and Mandolins
800-789-2216 ext 185
909-643-2332
7:30AM-3:30PM Pacific
MHerring@eastmanstrings.com
If mark still works at Eastman, he was incredibly kind with all the problems I had with my 803
My guitar was a beast to get up and running--but once it was all set--wheeeeeew--eeeeeee
LOOK OUT!
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You're going to have to remove the block attached to the neck, glue that to the pickguard, clamping it in place until the glue sets, then reattach the whole thing after the glue dries securely. You can't glue it in place because there is no reasonable way to clamp it, and it has to be clamped, or the glue won't hold.
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Thanks for your help. I'll try to glue it back. My local Eastman warehouse has confirmed to send me another finger rest next week. Excellent service!
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Don't glue it. Wait for the new one. Originally Posted by yifei3212
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Why not glue it? It's useless as is, but when repaired it will make a good backup/spare. Gluing wood is not quite the same as rocket science.
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I'll wait for the new one as well. Just wanna glue the old one as a backup. Originally Posted by Fortune
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If it was my project, I'd use gel superglue.
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Cyanoacrylate works, but it can be brittle.
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The Gorilla Brand CA from Home Despot (and other places) is notably less brittle than most CA formulas. Do not be put off by the consumer market focus of the brand. This is a very useful CA for many wood applications. Originally Posted by sgosnell
If you are a Titebond fan, then note that TB1 (original) is the most brittle but also the lowest creep so good for tenon joints under stress. TB2 and TB3 are progressively more prone to creep but also more moisture resisitant.
I think you would be surprised how well the Gorilla Brand CA would do in this application.
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I know if Stewmac sold them as “Luthio-magic” wonder glue at $20 with an “instructional” video, it would sound better. But this is very useful CA for this sort of application. It is notably better than the Stick-fast “flexible” CA.
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I'll check it. I've never tried the Gorilla brand CA, but then I'm almost always behind the times.
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Who mentioned Loctite? And what does it have to do with being an optician? What am I missing here?
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Loctite originally produced products for securing nuts on threads, and that's what it brings to my mind, but it has branched out. It's an old company, and I don't think its products are worse than any others. And yes, mistakes can be made with cyanoacrylate, just as they can be made for any other product. Care and skill are always necessary, but not always available nor used.
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