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Originally Posted by Jackkroo
I have one of the earlier models with the lighter truss rod cover. Perhaps someone with a newer model could chip in.Last edited by Gumtee; 07-05-2016 at 04:05 AM.
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07-05-2016 02:03 AM
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Jackroo,
Does your guitar have an internal block under the bridge that touches the guitar back?
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Originally Posted by lammie200
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Originally Posted by Gumtee
From the photo that would appear to be the case. Also, the two pole pieces for the B and high E strings seem to be abnormally high given that the others are all flush. Might this be the next adjustment?
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Originally Posted by Jackkroo
Good luck.
David
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Originally Posted by Jackkroo
This is a case of a guitar at the very edge of acceptability. I would have seconded it. Or rejected it. You can do better.
For all the reasons I've outlined previously.
I'm very picky about the acoustic sound and response of my guitars. The tiniest adjustments in breakover angle on a bridge saddle can effect the feel and sound profoundly. You're in Thailand? It's the start of the summer now, come deeper in the season the moisture may increase and the top will raise necessitating lowering the saddle height even further, or change of strings to a heavier gauge any time in the future (who knows how your playing style, sound preferences or hands will evolve) or if you want to sell it in the future, there is no room for adjustment in that bridge. Change in seasons alone to a different environment may likely drop/raise that top as the moisture changes; who knows if you'll have enough leeway. I don't know the neck relief either, that's not easy to photograph. But if you need to put any relief in the neck at any point, that'll raise your action and you'll need take it down at the bridge. You see, there's a lot of adjustment that's meant to be done with that handy adjustable bridge.
That pickup adjustment you made? You're getting into sacrificing playability and high fret access by moving that pickup off the top. Remember, the closer to the strings, the edgier your sound gets. A little distance, if you can assure it, makes for a warmer sound. Also play the guitar at the high frets. Yes, press that string to the high frets, you're getting really close to the pickup at that point. If your neck had a little more neck angle, you wouldn't be playing all these sound sacrificing games to try to get it to a point that's still, by some metrics, substandard.
Have other owners worked with similar conditions and lived with it? Sure, obviously from other forum members too. Have there been other owners who have found themselves stuck with a guitar at their limits they came to fight and with only very costly and half measures to address the issues? Yes. I make a lot of money off them and feel really bad at not having been there when they bought them.
David
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Here's my Monarch and its pickup. Looking at it, I can see the treble side does ride a little higher, and it's obvious why: the cable comes out of the bottom of the pickup and needs a little room to pass out from under the pickup. The pickup itself is rather thick (it's advertised as an "upgraded" pickup) and so there isn't much room under there to start with. Something like a Kent Armstrong floater would have plenty of room, but this pickup is a tight fit. Factor in the wire coming out underneath and it looks like mine is a bit askew. I never noticed this before now.
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Originally Posted by lawson-stone
Too close for comfort methinks, especially with a vibrating solid top
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Doc Dosco may wish to comment on this given that he has distributed Peerless and therefore Monarchs longer than anyone I can think of? Or, not. I would not blame him!
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Originally Posted by blackcat
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Originally Posted by TruthHertz
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Originally Posted by jazz.fred
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Originally Posted by lammie200
Yes you can take wood off the bottom of the saddle piece. If the owner "HAD" to have this guitar and wanted it made playable, that'd be one of the first steps.
No, you can assume the body has integrity. I really don't believe that'd be an issue. If the top were in any way collapsing, the downward force of the top would necessitate RAISING the bridge height, and it's the opposite situation here.
Picture the Golden Gate bridge. If the bedrock beneath the bridge pylons were compromised and the ground were sinking, you'd need to have RAISED the bridge to keep the road intact. Here, we're nearly bottomed out.
I'm concerned that the swelling of the top will mean there's no room to lower the bridge. A legitimate concern.
Either way, the problem would seem to be the neck/body join and geometry, all of which, if done correctly, would have made all of these problems moot. Absolutely moot.
As far as the internal bracing, blocks or soundposts are concerned, nobody builds that way-if you want to top to vibrate. This is not a violin where the constant input of energy from a bow allows a solid wood coupling between the top and back. Guitars get energy from an initial string release and the decay is a balancing act. That woody sound that makes a full hollow body sing like that is because mass and stiffness are balanced by design; designed by tradition to let the top vibrate freely. A sound post would tend to stop vibration.
Hollow bodies are designed to get their integrity through the wood, the arch and two braces.
The photos of the arching by the OP indicate that there's no problem there.
Just my opinion anyway.
DavidLast edited by TH; 07-05-2016 at 02:43 PM.
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Someone with the floater model should respond, but my Monarch with the set in HB has a sound post. I would think that if the guitar was originally designed to have one and it was removed, the string tension could cause the bridge to be either high or low depending on geometry, top strength, etc. I suggest ascertaining if this model was to have a sound post and whether this particular example has been modified. If that is a dead end, then at least one would know from observation rather than speculation.
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Originally Posted by lammie200
Would that be the sound post? Pardon the quality, cannot get proper focus.
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Originally Posted by Gumtee
Now I've GOT to check out these guitars. There are certain frequencies of vibration that definitely NEED for the top to be moving freely. That sound post may there to control feedback but at the price of certain frequencies.
That's a soundpost alright. From a luthier's perspective I can see why, but there are a whole lot of why nots.
VERY interesting! I take back my statement that "nobody does this."
Hey Peerless reps, what's this about?
David
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Originally Posted by lawson-stone
A Barolini 5J on my first Loar LH650 made that guitar sing better than a common guitar mentioned here by name that some go gaga over the guitar in name only...I sold that guitar and kept the Loar. It's all about the sound. A name produces nothing.
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Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
'One innovative Floating pickup increases output to 90% of an Epiphone '57 full size humbucker'.
This description has caused many to believe that the pickup is made by Epiphone when in fact it is a secondary Korean manufacturer retained by Peerless. Doc Dosco commented on this in a post on 11-02-2015.......................
'It is one of the better quality Gibson/Epiphone styled humbuckers that are made in Korea. Remember, Peerless built the Epiphone archtops for many, many years. Consequently, this PU design has been in use a long time. One good thing is that they haven't gone to the inferior Chinese PUs like other brands have done just to get a cheaper price'.
They do, however stuff an awful lot of material into that small housing!
David
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Originally Posted by blackcat
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Originally Posted by lawson-stone
Link to the Specs: http://guitarsnjazz.com/product/peerless-monarch/
David
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Originally Posted by lammie200
There is a post on mine as well.
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Originally Posted by Jackkroo
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Originally Posted by Jackkroo
Hope that helps.
David
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Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
Henricksen Blu 10
Today, 12:08 PM in For Sale