The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    What is the recommended string gauge for jazz guitarists?

    I accidentally ordered a set of the TI GB .14s a while ago, and am now considering putting them on after a couple of rounds with the TI .12s. Do you guys think this is advisable? I play a Samick JX4, pretty much a L5 copy (same dimensions, at least). At the same time I am getting my guitar put in the shop for its annual setup, so this might be a good time to try the new strings, since they can accommodate for any change in tension on the neck.

    Anyone here have firsthand experience with these strings? Do you like them?

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  3. #2

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    I had used La Bella 800M's (14 to 67 gauge) on a L-5 for years. I think heavy strings can drive an archtop, especially carved tops. You have to kiss big bends goodbye unless you have steel fingers!

  4. #3

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    Bends? What are those?

    Not sure exactly what you mean by "drive an archtop"...could you explain?

  5. #4

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    I have the GB 14's on a guitar and the GB 12's with the top 2 strings up a gauge, and I think the 14's are a little too dead and unresponsive compared to the 12's, but that could have a lot to do with the guitar. The 12's are a real good balance all around.

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by FatJeff
    Not sure exactly what you mean by "drive an archtop"...could you explain?
    I think archtops, especially carved ones, have a distinctive sound when you are comping with a heavy right hand (chugging along) or playing single lines by digging in with your pick or fingers (I use heavy picks). When doing this the guitar is really projecting its sound and that's what I call driving an archtop. The extra tension of heavier strings helps with this.

    (All in my humble opinion. Anyone else?)

  7. #6

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    >>> The extra tension of heavier strings helps with this.

    I would like to suggest that it is the extra mass, not the tension that transmits the energy to the top - driving it to vibrate.

    Heavy strings were needed early in my grandfathers playing life. No amp and horn players meant you need to move some serious mass to make yourself heard.

    With amps I think it is far better to go for the sound and feel you want (often a compromise between sound and feel).

    OR,

    In my opinion, no - send back the .014 cables. I have put .014s on other people's guitars and for about 45 seconds you think its pretty interesting. All in my opinion - you may love them for longer than the 45 seconds.

    Chris
    Last edited by PTChristopher; 02-07-2012 at 03:43 PM.

  8. #7

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    I am using a regular 13-56 set (John Pearse) but I change the top strings to 015 and 019. Much better than 013 and 017 imo, the whole set is more balanced.

  9. #8

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    The only way to know if they work on your guitar is to try them. If you want to go back to your original guage strings after, you'll have to have your "setup" done again though.

  10. #9

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    I use 14s on two guitars, a Guild F-50 flattop and my Artist Award,I like what they do for rhythm playing, my main style with these two guitars. I use 12s pretty much on my other guitars, more suitable for lead styles.
    Brad

  11. #10

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    I love heavy strings. I play with my thumb and my luthier has commented on how much I like to "dig in" when I play. For me I like the tone and LOVE the feel of the higher tension. I am using the LaBella 20PH 15-56 on my monarch and really dig the tone. I have the GHS Pat Martino 15-52 on my chambered M75. I love the tone and feel of a thicker string. For me its not so much about the bass end but B and E string. I really need the thicker strings up there.

    'Mike

  12. #11

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    "Drive an archtop" means to make the top vibrate. There is probably an ideal string tension for every top. Too little string pressure, and it won't reach maximum deflection. Too much might choke, or dampen, the vibrations.

    I'm used to .012's on my flattop acoustic. Since the scale length is shorter on the archtops I'm building, I'm hoping they can handle .013's or .014's at most.

  13. #12

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    I really like the sort of Hybrid GHS Pat Martino strings. They are like a set of 15 up top and a typical set of 12s down the bottom. (GHS Pat Martino strings .015, .017, .024, .032, .042, .052)I may try to put together my own set using Labella strings. I really REALLY love the Labella strings. I had the black nylon wound 14s on my Monarch for a while and really dug the tone but the FEEL on the nylon tape wound strings was just not right for me. There was not enough tension but man did they give a nice warm tone. Also the bass end of the spectrum has some seriously heavy duty strings.
    (.014, .018, .036, .046, .056, .067). It seems to me that despite the massive string diameters that its a low tension design.

    'Mike

  14. #13

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    For some reason I actually thought that the thicker the string, the lesser the tension.

  15. #14

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    From my undertanding and from what it feels like it takes more tension to bring a thicker string up to pitch.

    'Mike

  16. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman301
    I really REALLY love the Labella strings. I had the black nylon wound 14s on my Monarch for a while and really dug the tone but the FEEL on the nylon tape wound strings was just not right for me. There was not enough tension but man did they give a nice warm tone. Also the bass end of the spectrum has some seriously heavy duty strings.
    (.014, .018, .036, .046, .056, .067). It seems to me that despite the massive string diameters that its a low tension design.
    I have serious trouble even getting that 67 gauge E string through the hole in the tuner post. Its end is wrapped in silk thread and I have to wet that and massage it and draw it out until it's a bit skinnier!

  17. #16

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    I use that same set on my AZ 10. I play with my thumb most of the time and on a big carved archtop the sound of the 14 is cleaner and rounder than the 12. Also, when playing with the thumb you need more resistance since the thumb stroke has more force than most pick strokes. I use 12s on my 175 however. The heavier strings on that guitar deaden the sound too much.

  18. #17

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    I think you should try it to see if you like it better. As others have said, it depends on the particualar guitar and the sound you want. Plus of course if you can handle them - this is about musical results, not a manhood test.

    On my acoustic archtops (except one which is choked by heavy strings) I have 13-56 bronce strings with a high action, and I can handle them. Nevertheless, I prefer a little lighter gauge on my electric guitars as they give me a more "loose" and more lush sound. Something like D'Addario Chromes 12-52 or Thomastik Swing 13-53 (which has lower tension for the thickness than D'A Chromes).

    As others have said, it may be necessary to adjust the truss rod a bit when going up or down in gauge. It's not hard to do. Have somebody who knows what he's doing show you how. Often a 45-90 degree turn is all it takes.
    Last edited by oldane; 02-08-2012 at 11:07 AM.

  19. #18

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    ....that a lighter gauge string set is easier on the guitar.....I'm not sure you mentioned the instrument, but this question came up with my '30's L-7.
    Bottom line, I ended up with ( D'A Chromes ) 12-52's, and like the sound, and have just come to believe that less strain on this guitar is better. MHO Dennis

  20. #19

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    Your luthier is the right person to advise you on that - on my archtop he said you can go 015 with no issues. On your 335 don't go above 013.

  21. #20

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    I had a 64 Guild X50 and when I took it to my Luthier he advised strongly against anything larger than 12s and if I "NEEDED" to go higher he would advise a Hybrid with a 13 or 14 on top nd a 16 or 17 for the B string.

    'Mike

  22. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonotes
    I play with my thumb most of the time and on a big carved archtop the sound of the 14 is cleaner and rounder than the 12.
    Yes, I find that more tension yields a more "piano like" tone. As always, it depends on your guitar.

  23. #22

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    I love the TI George Benson flats. I've used the GB 14-55 for quite some time on my old Fender D'Aquisto Elite archtop. They sounds different and better IMO than the GB 12-53. However, having returned to the guitar after never really playing that much, I am having enough to do handling the 12-53, and I do like them too. But if your instrument can take the 14s and you have the hand strength, then by all means give the 14s a try. If it were me though, I would take my guitar to knowledgeable tech first.

  24. #23

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    I'm actually quite happy with the .12s, and since I have a recital coming up in April, I think I'll probably just stick with what I'm used to right now. I'll keep the .14s for next time. For whatever reason, as I mentioned before, I was under the impression that increasing the gauge reduced the tension, but if the opposite is true, that's probably not something I want.

  25. #24

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    If you want LESS tension try the Labella black nylon tape wound strings. Very low tesion despite the string sizes being used.

    'Mike

  26. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman301
    I had a 64 Guild X50 and when I took it to my Luthier he advised strongly against anything larger than 12s
    The X-50 (called Cordoba after 1961, discontinued in 1970) was introduced at a time when slinky strings was not yet invented. Some of the most popular flatwound strings of that period was Gibsons "Hi-Fi" which ran 14-58. wes Montgomery used them. All guitars from that time was built to take that. Unless there is something wrong with the instrument making it structurally instable, it should take heavier strings than 12s without problems. Whether you like the sound and feel of the heavier strings or not is another matter on which only you can decide.