Best Strings for Gibson L-7?

**omphalopsychos** · 06-11-2018, 01:15 AM

I'm a big fan of GHS Vintage Bronze as of late. I use a set of 12s and put a 13 and 17 for the treble strings. Lucky for us, they're pretty cheap.

**nopedals** · 06-11-2018, 11:18 AM

If you are going to put a pickup on the guitar, you may want to avoid bronze strings. Monel is kind of in the middle between bronze and nickel. I had string balance issues with monels on a P90 equipped guitar, but they worked fine with a dearmond FHC.

For a really old and frail Gibson, you might want to think about strings with lower tension. TI has a variety of choices.

**sgosnell** · 06-11-2018, 11:21 AM

I like the D'Addario EPN pure nickel strings. I tend to prefer the .012 sets for most guitars, but you could go heavier if you want. I think these gives more of a vintage sound than the nickel-plated steel-wrapped strings commonly sold in music stores. But there really isn't a great deal of difference to my ear between them and the monel Retro strings. The alloys used are at least similar.

**Ray175** · 06-11-2018, 12:19 PM

My own preference for acoustic sound is for Pyramid Gold True Vintage flatwounds (100% nickel). Beutifully balanced sound and can "bark" quite nicely if pushed. when played softly they have a full and sweet sound that I like. YMMV

**Longways to Go** · 06-12-2018, 09:33 AM

I'm currently feeling the Monels are bright and thin sounding, though I'll still leave them on the L7 a while.

TI flats are next up.

Cheers!

**Stringswinger** · 06-12-2018, 02:01 PM

Let us know how you like the TI flats.

I was playing my R9 175 on a gig on Sunday (AER Compact 60 amp and TI-flats) and a customer of the venue came up and asked if I was playing nylon strings. When I told him that the guitar was steel strings, he was amazed. I think the TI Flats move any guitar into classical guitar tone, which IMO, is great for jazz. Most old time players want the "zing" of rounds, which for a 4 to the bar crunch may be desirable. But for beautiful chord melody work (something a vintage archtop is perfect for), the pure nickel flats deliver.

**mercosound** · 06-16-2018, 01:10 PM

I've been using Newtone Heritage strings on my 1940 Epi Deluxe - .013 - .055 gauge, round core. The tension is way lower then you would expect with those gauge strings (155 lbs), and pretty much equal on each string - 26 lbs. I believe that D'Addario light gauge acoustic strings have a total tension of around 160 lbs; I guess that the round core (or core diameter) has something to do with the lower tension of the Newtones? Anyway, I'm sold on them, and the heavier gauges seem to be fine on the old Epi.

**Longways to Go** · 07-14-2018, 05:08 PM

I thought I'd offer an update, as I changed strings on the L7 today.

I haven't quite gotten around to trying the TI Swings yet, as they are unavailable locally and I haven't been in the mood for buying anything on-line. So I went around the local shops to see what was out there. Chromes were the common option -- which kinda makes me think I need to try them again at some point. But one shop had Curt Mangan Flats, so out of curiosity I decided to go that direction. The shop had sets of 11s and 13s in stock, but not my preferred 12s, so I went with the 11-52 set and subbed a 12 and 16 for the top two plain strings.

What a transformation! I can hardly express how horrible the Martin Monels sounded to me. Bright, thin, shrill. Just plain couldn't stand them. Most likely the last set of those I ever buy! The Mangan flats completely transformed the sound to a richer deeper tone, and they aren't even broken in yet. I don't think they are quite as "refined" as TI swings (which I have on a couple of other guitars) but they do sound darn good.

The outer winding on the Mangan flats is wider than on the TI swings, but not as smooth. There is some finger noise -- different from a wound round. But like I said, I just put these strings on today, so we'll see how we get along in for the long run. So far I'm digging them.

The Monels robbed my old L7 of it's voice. The Mangan Flats brought that lovely voice back to life!
Boy do the right strings ever make a difference.

**rpguitar** · 07-14-2018, 09:13 PM

I enjoy La Bella Criterion strings in 12-52 on my 1928 L-5 and 1933 L-12. They are something similar to 80/20 bronze, although “golden alloy” is the description used. They are clear, warm, and supple bronze strings. I don’t like flats on acoustic guitars.

**Mayo5** · 09-20-2018, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by rpguitar

I enjoy La Bella Criterion strings in 12-52 on my 1928 L-5 and 1933 L-12. They are something similar to 80/20 bronze, although “golden alloy” is the description used. They are clear, warm, and supple bronze strings. I don’t like flats on acoustic guitars.

How is the string length on these? I have a '39 Epi Emperor and I've been struggling to find the right set of strings for it and many of them are not long enough for a full wrap on the post, when pulling from the short side of the frequensator.

**wintermoon** · 09-20-2018, 10:31 PM

That's an issue w old Emperors. They're long scale and that short part is shorter than a D'Angelico stairstep t.p. or Super 400 t.p.
Johnny Smith played a Emperor early on and just swapped out the short part of the Frequensator w another long one.
I don't hear much difference in tone w the longer one and neither did Johnny.

**Mayo5** · 09-21-2018, 01:24 AM

Originally Posted by wintermoon

That's an issue w old Emperors. They're long scale and that short part is shorter than a D'Angelico stairstep t.p. or Super 400 t.p.
Johnny Smith played a Emperor early on and just swapped out the short part of the Frequensator w another long one.
I don't hear much difference in tone w the longer one and neither did Johnny.

Thanks for the information. I've thought about that before but haven't found a piece that I could afford or that I could justify the cost of.

**Dennis D** · 03-07-2019, 11:00 AM

These are both acoustics. I've seen & value J Stout's and others' advice about Monels and may give them a try, at least on the '37.

The '52 has those skinny frets, and each is currently strung with Chromes. ( yeah I know-flats on an acoustic. ) This guitar just doesn't stay ' stable '. These are in the same humidity, temperature, etc, and the '37 always stays as set up, while the '52 is buzzing again - 3rd & 4th string - -full length. ( ?? )

I will stay with 12's.

Any and all ideas appreciated.

Thx.

**skykomishone** · 03-08-2019, 12:23 AM

Hi Dennis,

The builders forum is a good place to query. Without seeing the guitar and some measurements, like string height at the 12th fret, and the relief of the neck, etc., it's hard to make a guess. Have you done a basic setup on it or are you asking how that is done? Also, I own a '44 L7, and the first thing I did when I bought it was to have it refretted with medium jumbos after a neck reset and a plek fretboard leveling. Plays like a dream, and I highly recommend it. Hope that helps.

Steve

**Dennis D** · 03-08-2019, 01:05 AM

Originally Posted by skykomishone

Hi Dennis,

The builders forum is a good place to query. Without seeing the guitar and some measurements, like string height at the 12th fret, and the relief of the neck, etc., it's hard to make a guess. Have you done a basic setup on it or are you asking how that is done? Also, I own a '44 L7, and the first thing I did when I bought it was to have it refretted with medium jumbos after a neck reset and a plek fretboard leveling. Plays like a dream, and I highly recommend it. Hope that helps.

Steve

Hi Steve

Yes it's had annual setups for the last four years, by a decent luthier. What I know for sure is it has a new nut, and had neck heat treatment about 18 months ago. I'd like to wear the frets out and then replace them, but until I got this guitar about five years ago, it was pretty much unplayed. So there's still some meat left on these frets, skinny as they are.
But I can see where a reset may be a good idea, or at least something to consider. I just wish I weren't so tired of fighting this thing.

Thx Steve.

**KirkP** · 03-08-2019, 01:49 AM

Originally Posted by Dennis D

...the '52 is buzzing again - 3rd & 4th string - -full length. ( ?? )

By “full length” do you mean it buzzes no matter how high you fret? If the frets are level and the truss rod is properly adjusted then I’d guess the bridge may just be too low.

**Cunamara** · 03-08-2019, 02:36 AM

Also check whether the bridge top is the right radius for the neck. If it's too flat, you'll get buzzing on the G and D strings because they are relatively lower than the E strings.

**Dennis D** · 03-08-2019, 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by KirkP

By “full length” do you mean it buzzes no matter how high you fret? If the frets are level and the truss rod is properly adjusted then I’d guess the bridge may just be too low.

Yes, it started buzzing recently, no matter how high I fret. It's been a cold winter here and I didn't do the humidifier thing, so that could be part of it.

I may cycle it to the basement for a week or two, and will also check the bridge.

Thx, Kirk.

**KirkP** · 03-08-2019, 12:16 PM

Frank Ford’s frets.com is a treasure. He mostly focuses on flat tops but many of the same principles apply to archtops. Follow all the lnks and you’ll learn a lot about chasing down buzzes, adjusting truss rods, etc.
FRETS.COM Buzz Diagnosis

**SandChannel** · 03-08-2019, 12:29 PM

Martin SP 80/20 strings with a .014 and .018 plain string swapped in for the high E and B on my 35 L-12.

**Dennis D** · 03-08-2019, 12:46 PM

Originally Posted by SandChannel

Martin SP 80/20 strings with a .014 and .018 plain string swapped in for the high E and B on my 35 L-12.

What's the basic set, or the other four strings ?

Interesting and thx. !

And congrats on the L-12 !! Those '30's Gibsons are just plain magic !

**SandChannel** · 03-08-2019, 02:08 PM

Yup. It is a basic 12 set with larger plain strings on the E and B.

**Hammertone** · 04-01-2019, 05:04 PM

Not enough pix in this thread.

**Klatu** · 04-02-2019, 10:19 AM

Originally Posted by Dennis D

Hi Steve

Yes it's had annual setups for the last four years, by a decent luthier. What I know for sure is it has a new nut, and had neck heat treatment about 18 months ago. I'd like to wear the frets out and then replace them, but until I got this guitar about five years ago, it was pretty much unplayed. So there's still some meat left on these frets, skinny as they are.
But I can see where a reset may be a good idea, or at least something to consider. I just wish I weren't so tired of fighting this thing.

Thx Steve.

I noticed that your guitar underwent a heat treatment 18 months ago. My only experience with the process was with a Heritage guitar that had a bit of a warp and neck hump in the neck that I wanted to eliminate. The process seemed to work shortly upon the return of the guitar, but the neck eventually settled back to its warped state.

If I were in your position, I would take the guitar to my luthier to make sure the treatment held firm and that the neck is in its proper position before moving on to other possible issues.

**Dennis D** · 04-02-2019, 01:35 PM

Originally Posted by Klatu

I noticed that your guitar underwent a heat treatment 18 months ago. My only experience with the process was with a Heritage guitar that had a bit of a warp and neck hump in the neck that I wanted to eliminate. The process seemed to work shortly upon the return of the guitar, but the neck eventually settled back to its warped state.

If I were in your position, I would take the guitar to my luthier to make sure the treatment held firm and that the neck is in its proper position before moving on to other possible issues.

The heat-treated L-7 just returned from its' annual set up and it's fine. I have stayed w/ Chrome 12's, but substituted 1+3 with 13 & 17 ga. And this year I ( had better ) leave the thumbwheels where the luthier set them - period.

Thanks