-
Whenever a comparison between solid-bodies and archtops is made, I would see people here brining up the issue of how solid-bodies (telecasters for example) can take a beating, while archtops (hollow-bodies) have to be handled with care.
So my question is, in your experience, how easily can an archtop get damaged?
-
08-14-2013 03:48 PM
-
Archtops aren't much different than any guitar, if you don't abuse them. Nitro-finished guitars show wear if you actually use them instead of keeping them in the case. Poly-finished guitars show less wear over the course of years. You can punch a hole in a solid wood guitar a lot easier than a laminate one if you bang it on the corner of a chair or slam it into a wall. The headstock will break just as easily on a solid body if you knock it over.
There are lots of perfectly funtional archtops still being played from the 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s...if you take care of them, they can last forever with minimal maintenance. If you feel you can't take care of a hollow-body guitar--you can get a Strat and do a JimiHendrix/Pete Townshend smash-up with it every night. :-)
-
It only matters if you are either careless or a major klutz.
-
The only serious damage I have ever had to any guitar was to a mid 50s es150
was dropped in shipping. The guitar seemed well packed but the impact knocked the braces clear off the top
-
Be careful with archtops that have the output jack on the side like the Epiphone Joe Pass. I've had to patch a few holes there. Other than that they're like any other guitar.
-
An archtop is considerable stronger than a flat top acoustic. Of course spruce is the most common wood used for both tops and it happens to be a rather soft wood, easy to dent/scar, but the idea of an archtop being" delicate" is based on ignorance. So too the carved arched maple back is stronger than its flat counterpart. rpguitar sums things up nicely. Don't do anything stupid and you'll be OK.
-
Heat kills acoustics.
-
It is easy to dislodge the bridge on an archtop, generally, near impossible on a solid guitar as they are bolted on.
-
Yes - and just as easy to put it back in place. I love the floating archtop bridge because it's so much easier to get a good intonation with whatever setup you prefer than on a fixed bridge guitar.
Originally Posted by Sonnyboy
-
Let's put it this way...if I tripped and fell on my archtop, that guitar would need a doctor. If I tripped and fell on my tele, I'd need a doctor.
but under normal circumstances, there's not anything inherently "fragile" about an archtop...take care of your guitars and they'll take care of you...by continuing to work.
-
Whoops, double post.
-
Could you expand a bit on that? Originally Posted by Klatu
-
Heat and a lack of humidity both. Originally Posted by emz
Solid body guitars don't move as much as acoustics. On acoustics, lack of humidity will cause the wood to shrink and the seams will split, cracks will form, and braces will come loose. It can happen fast and it will occur if you don't keep a solid wood instrument in about 30% humidity. Optimal is 40%-60%. Laminates are a bit less susceptible but can still break. On a solid body, you will get fret ends poking out because of wood shrinking but that's about it. Maybe some finish crazing if you expose the guitar big temperature swings.
Heat (like a guitar left in a hot car) will destroy any guitar but acoustics will suffer more. Cracks, lifted bridges (flat tops), and melted finish are some impacts. The worst thing I think would be a warped neck.
Archtops may be slightly more sturdy than a flat top but I would treat it the same. Watch the humidity. Avoid temperature extremes. Watch out for straps that don't fit well.
-
didn't read it... so take with a grain of salt but it is from Gibson.. how bad could it be???
How to Save your Guitar from Summer Heat Damage
-
Well that was a scary article. Originally Posted by SamBooka
-
I have a 1949 Gibson L4C, the old Gibson archtops seem to be very light in comparison with newer models. I presume that the newer models are built with heavy construction so hopefully avoiding any warranty issues.
Guy
-
Ok i gig fulltime ...and every gig is usually involving travel ... Locally or abroad So in the time i used a vintage archtop i used to open the case apprehensively half expecting a broken headstock .... As in my experience yes acoustics bodies can cracks or split but if it does you can usually still play it , but a flight case dropped can break a neck joint where it meets the headstock and is a common problem /repair to any gibson esque designed headstock ... Even on les pauls and sg's , so yes i carried a spare guitare just in case .... Nowdays i gig a tele and my fears have dissapeared ....
And yes on the positive side my fears were never realised and the skb case proved worth the expense .... But i was always nervous travelling with archtops ....
So yes if you don't tour much ... Just get what you like if you do tour invest in best case you can and carry a backup .....
It's purely that headstock/neck joint in my books that needs serrious concern if you travel
-
How about too much humidity ? Here in Okinawa the average is about 65% ... Originally Posted by Spook410
I was about to start a thread about how people usually deal with humidity and their carved archtops, but this post is spot on.
I'm actually wondering how many people store back their archtop in the case after playing ...
It's commonplace for flat tops for sure, i do so after playing my all solid wood flat tops, and it's a topic that regularly appears at acousticguitarforum.com, almost everyday.
I understand that lack of humidity is dreadful but for high humidity, somehow, instinctively i fear less for my archtop than my flat tops, bellying, change in action, etc...
Since instinct might not be the best adviser here i'd like to read what you guys think.
Thanks
Reply With Quote
It all begins with “Preparations”
Today, 06:49 PM in Improvisation