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Regarding guitars with no fret marker's on the fingerboard. Switching from guitars with inlays on the fingerboard to guitars without how much of an adjustment was it to get used to playing? How long did it take to get really comfortable with that style of guitar neck?
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01-12-2013 09:59 PM
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I'm a side dot guy myself, so I don't even see the FB front markers much at all.
But for some players they are really a practical part of the guitar. I've added markers a few times for such situations. Dots are super fast and easy to add. Block inlays are no big deal but take quite a bit longer both for cutting the FB inlay hole and shaping the larger to the FB radius.
Others may have much different outlooks on this.
Chris
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Those guitars without markers on the fretboard usually have dots on the upper edge but to answer your question it wasn't a big problem.
I will say though that it makes it more difficult to demonstrate something to someone else as they don't have a quick reference point watching you play.Last edited by keith; 01-12-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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There are side markers, so it wasn't any adjustment at all. I never even thought about it.
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I have a pretty sad back so I am very conscious of my posture when I play. When I am in the position that is best for my spine I cannot even see the fret markers. So I don't miss them and, in fact, I wonder how people get along without the side dots.
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+1 - I move between marked and unmarked necks every practice session and never pay attention to anything but side markers.
Originally Posted by Jonathan0996
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I'm like everyone else side dots are enough for me. Only time I had an issue was a classical guitar with no markers on FB or on the side. Learning position on upright bass was easier than no marker guitar.
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I use the side markers for position reference. I dislike dots and inlays and much prefer an unadorned fingerboard.
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When studyiing classical I used "white out" to place a couple of marks on the side at critical fret positions ... did the job .. Originally Posted by docbop
As has been said, most of these style guitars do come with side markers
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I play some Flamenco and my Flamenco guitar has no fret markers. They would be of little use as Flamenco pieces often use a capo for various reasons and a capo renders fret markers useless. I do not find this much of a problem and I seem to subconsciously know where I am from my hands distance from the nut/capo and body fret.
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I use side dots so no issues. Had a classical once with no side dots; have to admit that bothered me a bit...
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I like the look of plain ebony -- playing field of the Gods!
But +1 to what Keith said: it's harder on another guitarist trying to see what you are doing. When I watch instructional videos, I wish the guitarists had inlay.Last edited by BigDaddyLoveHandles; 01-13-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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Classical and flamenco guitarists have no markings at all to follow. Practice a bit in the dark on a regular basis, and you'll free yourself of sight dependency, which for professional pit band players or those who need to follow a conductor or leader will be a great leap forward.
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I practice without looking at the board. I generally prefer the look of guitars without inlays, except for traditional Gibsons and Fenders.
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I need the block position markers ...........
(and I like the look of them too)
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My main guitar has no fretboard inlay. No issues. I've had instruments with no side dots, which takes time to get fully confident with, but isn't ultimately a big deal.
I once had a Sel-Mac style guitar that had a dot at the 10th fret instead of the 9th. That threw me off all the time. Same goes for mandolins.
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anyone mention side markers yet?
Last edited by 2bornot2bop; 01-13-2013 at 02:04 PM.
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I've usually played the typical rock and folk style guitars. I had a luthier make a nylon string classical guitar last year. Standard side dots are on 7th fret only and nothing on the ebony. I had him put dots at 3, 5, 7 and 9. Don't need one for 12 because that's where the neck meets the body.
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no difference whatsoever as long as there are side markers. I'd actually have to work at it to tilt my guitar in such a way that i'd regularly be able to see fretboard markers while playing; i only look at the side of the neck.
That said, i recommend to everyone if you are having a custom guitar made, be sure the side dots are visible in low light. One of my favorite guitars has a beautiful curly binding and rather small pearly side markers and at gigs, the low light on the flame plays tricks and completely hides my dots. I have adapted somewhat but once in ahwile do some unplanned side stepping, lol.
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''Oh, but I do make mistakes. All the time. But I cover them up. '' (Art Tatum) Originally Posted by mikeSF
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Playing sitting down I realize I tip the guitar slightly towards me and find it a tad easier when there are block inlays, but standing up I use only the side dots.
Docbop mentioned upright bass. In thumb position I've actually put a few brown dots (adhesive dots from an office supply store) on the fingerboard, they are a great help up there and can't really be seen beyond the first few rows of the audience. Someday I suppose I should remove them... Yes, better to practice in the dark and not need anything!
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Prefer the look of no markers on the fretboard. However, they are handy when you're playing with others that want to track what your hands are doing.
As for side markers, maybe it's a crutch, but I use those quite a lot. Right now I have a guitar with brass markers on the side. Very nice custom flat top I ordered around 1990. They are set in dark wood and you can't see them. Has always been an annoying aspect of this guitar. I'm thinking either some kind of drill bit that will make a slightly larger hole around them so I can cut them out and put something visible in or try something like white out. Thing is, it's a very nice guitar and I really don't want to hack it. A good tech in town told me it will look bad if they are cut out. I suppose I could touch a soldering iron to one to see if whatever glue was used lets go after clearing the finish a bit.
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Hi Spook,
I have been in that boat. Drilling out can be done, but the tendency to wander off the brass center is a problem unless you have a very secure press setup with the neck clamped in place and a very good center punch in the brass. Even then you can have trouble.
I do better with a drill bit made from tubing. Brass is cheap and easy to get but wears quickly. Steel is available from McMaster-Carr but sharpening it into a bit is a little trickier. Both will work, but with brass you will re-sharpen the bit for each hole, which takes a minute.
Anyway, then you drill around the brass instead of through it. If this leaves too big a hole even with thin-wall tubing, you can always set in some wood then drill out for the new dots. Good old white ABS is best in my opinion.
This sounds involved, but it all goes pretty fast and easy.
All in my opinion and experience.
Chris
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Oh and McMaster Carr is a HUGE site and it can be hard to find things (but man do they have everything for wacky-ass fabrication needs).
Go to their "find" box and type "standard metal miniature tubing" and you will find a superb array.
Or you can try K&S brass from a hobby store.
This is all if you actually choose to drill out the brass as a core sample of course.
Chris
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Chris: Thanks as always. I'm going to ask the builder (Kinscherff) if he can do this for me while re-seating the bridge and resetting the neck (even guitars get older..). If he is unwilling I'm going to try brass tubing. Too bad your shop isn't closer.
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