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Originally Posted by Kuz
Rosewood is more stable than ebony, changes shape less with changes in humidity, so it can handle more drying without cracking. Still a good idea to keep it oiled.
The main rule is don't use too much. The instructions in finishing books will say something like "flood" the surface with oil, let it soak in a few minutes, then wipe of the excess. Don't take that word "flood" too literally, or you will have oil seeping back out of the pores for hours or days.
Just dampen the surface by wiping the oil on, I would say "sparingly", with a cloth or paper towel. If a section dries completely in a few minutes, you can add a little more to that spot. After 5-10 minutes the wood will absorb all the oil it's going to. Wipe off the excess at that point. Wait a few more minutes, and if more comes back out, wipe that off and string up.
It doesn't matter which product you use as long as it is a light, non-hardening oil. Tung and Linseed are examples of hardening oils that should be avoided.
Techs will usually do this for you when you get your guitar setup.
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09-05-2011 11:39 AM
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I heard that many expensive oils for fretboards are actually just repackaged vegetable oil.
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Originally Posted by Loobs
Not when they're repackaged by men with PhDs, no siree. The proof is scientific...at least, it looks scientific and it is good enough for some.
Let sleeping dogs lie.
P.S. I just missed it completely. Loobs, oils, lubes, hmmm.
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You don't miss a thing, my friend.
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under dry condition, is the water to be vaporized inside of the wood structure, not the oil component? If in that case, humidify again will restore the wood structure instead of using oil. If oil interacts with some wood lipid structure, will it change the stiffness of wood? Oil may just swell the wood structure or dissolve some wood lipid structure? but not reset it to original condition? Just from naive thinking. Cheers.
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These oils are essentially mineral oil, some with added scent. I use food-grade mineral oil (used for preserving nice chopping boards), it's available at Home Depot. I'd use Baby Oil, but I don't like the smell. Any mineral oil will work the same.
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There is a popular brand of fret board oil that says on the back of the label do not use with maple fretboards. A lot of guitars have maple fretboards. i wonder why no maple? What is it about maple fretboards? Ugggg
And best wishes to you all.
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Wow, talk about learning something new every day. In 50 years no one ever mentioned oiling of fretboards. I am fortunate that the fretboards on my guitars are all in excellent shape. They all happen to be Rosewood and two are over 40 years old. I've always wipe them down and kept them clean but never applied an oil.
May have to have a go. Thanks for sharing the info.
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Originally Posted by johnny67
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Originally Posted by johnny67
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This topic creeps up from time to time. If you are putting mineral oil onto the finger board wipe off immediately. Don't let it soak in overnight. It could make future refrets and finish/gluing repairs impossible!
The best thing I have found is Gorgomyte!
Gorgomyte Fret And Fingerboard Conditioner
Its mainly for polishing frets but also conditions fret boards too.
Jazzbow highly recommends this for fingerboards and has no affiliation to the manufacturer whatsoever.....
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Congrats on the Carvin.
I condition all my fretboards, rosewood and ebony, once a year with Gibson fretboard conditioner.
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