Gibson ES-175 Strap Button Position

**Phil. S** · 01-12-2011, 08:08 AM

I have had my 1988 ES 175 for 20 years and would like to add a strap button just above the neck on the main body of the guitar like this

Is this a safe place to put it, ie, does the neck block extend that far up? I have never modified a guitar in any way and am very nervous about drilling into the guitar, but I'd rather not have the button at the base of the neck unless I have to.
TIA
Phil

**rpguitar** · 01-12-2011, 08:41 AM

Move it a scootch closer to the neck (basically as close as you can and still fit the strap end around it). But yes - this is a fine spot and my preference also.

**kris** · 01-12-2011, 09:13 AM

may be better another solution.

**billkath** · 01-12-2011, 09:58 AM

Shine a flashlight in the top F hole and see if you can see if a block has been put in there for anchorage-my 175 copy had one. If it's there, aim to get it dead centre. If not, a luthier will be able to glue a small block in there by gaining access through the top pickup cavity. Anchorage is important. As you've aleady done the hole, it'll be asy for him to position it right, glue it, and hold it in position with the strap button.

**NiAg** · 01-12-2011, 10:56 AM

Definitely make sure there is a block behind the screw (or have one put in) as billkath says. Just screwing into the ply side is trouble.

I had a brand new Howard Roberts Fusion a few years back that came from the Big G brand complete with an unsupported strap button. So make sure you do better than the manufacturer.

I much prefer a button on the back of the heel myself. But to each his own - just be into solid wood.

**rpguitar** · 01-12-2011, 10:56 AM

There are a few places you can put the strap pin. All "work" but some players are very biased for or against some of them.

In the side at the neck block (like you initially showed); in the back of the heel block on the cap (like Kris showed); in the back of the heel block below the cap; in the heel on the slope of the carve (either side); or in the neck itself. That last one is an incredibly stupid place to put it, but it "works."

My preference is either on the neck block or the heel cap.

**hot ford coupe** · 01-12-2011, 08:40 PM

I'm not crazy about making holes that may cause irreparable damage. I solved my problem in a different way. I used to see a lot of guitarists, especially folk players tie a string to the headstock and anchor the strap there. I tried it and it was terrible. The thing that worked for me was to tie a thin shoelace under the fingerboard extension over the body. I then tied the strap to that. It works great and didn't have to cut the guitar. If you look at my avatar, you can see which brand I'm talking about. You don't want to cut into those. If you need a picture of it, I can do that for you also.

**kawa** · 01-12-2011, 08:53 PM

I chose the LP style positions for my '67 ES-175DN at last for the best standing playability.
Place : 28mm from the top and 18mm from the heal.
Tools for pilot hole http://www.e-daikudogu.com/goods_41374.html
'67 Gibson ES-175DN
(Fill the old hole by putty)
The sounds were changeless, still good.

Jim Hall & ES-175 Germany TV Show 1973 from thread "Good Sounds" #336
(placed strap button as like to the LP position and replaced pickup)

with Attila Zoller

**NiAg** · 01-12-2011, 09:22 PM

[Hot Ford Coupe] >>> If you look at my avatar, you can see which brand I'm talking about. You don't want to cut into those. If you need a picture of it, I can do that for you also.

Hey, this reminds me - I got a D'A in for some fret work way back when. The owner had screwed a small hardware-store type eye-bolt into the side of the heel. But it had since rusted, so at least it did not look garrish.

I remember the oddest thing about that guitar was that it had an ivory bridge. If it was not original, it was very nicely made and sounded great.

Anyway, sorry to drift off-topic.

**caravan** · 01-12-2011, 09:28 PM

Ordinarily, I wouldn't mind drilling a new hole in a Gibson, but in this case, it's an older ES175! As everyone knows, they command high prices and hold their value well... especially if they are "stock" or in original condition.

**hot ford coupe** · 01-13-2011, 12:37 AM

Originally Posted by NiAg

[Hot Ford Coupe] >>> If you look at my avatar, you can see which brand I'm talking about. You don't want to cut into those. If you need a picture of it, I can do that for you also.

I remember the oddest thing about that guitar was that it had an ivory bridge. If it was not original, it was very nicely made and sounded great.

.

You never know with good old Johnny D. There were so many little one off things he did that an ivory bridge doesn't sound out of place. I would have loved to have heard what that bridge made the guitar sound like. I'm sure it sustained well too.

**Phil. S** · 01-13-2011, 04:20 AM

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I shone a torch i the sound hole and can see the neck block. It looks like it extends beyond the neck, but it is hard to tell by how far. This evening I'll try something with a torch, extended mirror and a tape measure to see exactly where it ends and whether the Les Paul position is possible.

If it does not extend far enough I'll take it to a guitar shop to have a block of reinforcing wood glued in so that I can have the button where I want it.

I've tried tying the strap to the head and really don't like the way the guitar hangs like this.

**DaveS** · 01-13-2011, 10:31 AM

Phil, mark dimensions on a piece of cardstock and tape it to a stick. Pass the stick through an f-hole up to the headblock (with a flashlight in the other f-hole) & you should get a pretty good idea of headblock width (ref fretboard width at the 14th fret). You have to consider if you can get the button far enough away from the heel to be able to get your intended strap on & off.
Hot ford coupe makes a good point and one reason some use the heelblock, as Kris kindly showed above in the picture of my Jazz Pro model, is that it can be reversable at a later date by replacing the heelcap.

**cosmic gumbo** · 01-13-2011, 10:32 AM

I just think it's so wrong to play a 175 standing up with a strap. Jim Hall has the right idea. Metheny plays it standing up like a hippie, his jeans are too tight to sit down.

**customxke** · 05-14-2013, 12:28 AM

Originally Posted by NiAg

[Hot Ford Coupe] >>> If you look at my avatar, you can see which brand I'm talking about. You don't want to cut into those. If you need a picture of it, I can do that for you also.

Hey, this reminds me - I got a D'A in for some fret work way back when. The owner had screwed a small hardware-store type eye-bolt into the side of the heel. But it had since rusted, so at least it did not look garrish.

I remember the oddest thing about that guitar was that it had an ivory bridge. If it was not original, it was very nicely made and sounded great.

Anyway, sorry to drift off-topic.

More than a few DAs came with "penny hooks" from the John D's workbench. Mine appears to have had one, and then had the hole plugged.

**floatingpickup** · 05-14-2013, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by NiAg

[Hot Ford Coupe] >>> If you look at my avatar, you can see which brand I'm talking about. You don't want to cut into those. If you need a picture of it, I can do that for you also.

Hey, this reminds me - I got a D'A in for some fret work way back when. The owner had screwed a small hardware-store type eye-bolt into the side of the heel. But it had since rusted, so at least it did not look garrish.

I remember the oddest thing about that guitar was that it had an ivory bridge. If it was not original, it was very nicely made and sounded great.

Anyway, sorry to drift off-topic.

That eye-bolt was likely original to the guitar. I have seen many DA's with eye-bolts on the bass-side of the neck.
Keith