The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    I got it for around $520 total with tax and shipping. Came with an older Ibanez hardshell case.

    Here are some of the issues it has.

    The A string tuner is missing a plastic washer.
    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6076-jpg

    There's some chipping in the ebony fretboard in the binding close to the neck pickup, and there's chipping in the last couple inlays. I also noticed The higher frets are tarnished and possibly rusting? There are brown spots on the last few frets. There's also brown tarnish or rust on the neck pickup adjustment screws. I also noticed the gold finish on the neck pickup was worn through in a few spots. Not sure how that happened.
    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6077-jpg

    The bridge is bottomed out. Didn't have any tools lying around to check the action accurately. I stuck a 1.5 mm pick at the 12th fret under the high e. It was definitely lower than 1.5 mm, probably between 1.2 to 1.4 mm. No fret buzz except for two high spots on the 13th and 16th fret on the high e. I can try spot leveling those areas once I buy the right tools. Maybe a fret kisser, fretfixxer, or similar tool.

    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6078-jpg

    Not sure if there's anything wrong with the neck angle to make the bridge bottom out.
    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6080-jpg

    Noticed there pickguard has some wear in the screwhole area. Not sure if it's dirty or if something wore through it.
    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6081-jpg

    Not pictured but the gold posts in the bridge have blue/green patina. I'm assuming it could have been acidic sweat from the previous owner. That would also explain the tarnishing on the pickups and frets. There's also a few finish scratches and dings.

    Should I keep it or return it? This finish is discontinued. There are a few new and used listings on Reverb and guitar center that are in better condition. I would have to set them up though if I choose to return this and get a different one. I also noticed the bridges are bottomed out on a couple other listings.

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    Return it, you'll never be happy. Just like buses , hang around long enough and another one will come by.

  4. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by bohemian46
    Return it, you'll never be happy. Just like buses , hang around long enough and another one will come by.
    I don’t mind the cosmetic issues. The big thing is the bridge being bottomed out. I’m not sure if this indicates a neck angle issue or not. The action is low without buzz, except for a few spots.

    Another listing for this guitar also has a bottomed out bridge.

  5. #4

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    The bridge looks pretty tall, there's heaps of material that could be taken off the bottom of the saddle if needed should you need to lower the action. I wouldn't be too concerned by that.

  6. #5

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    The action is very low, more so than most jazzers prefer, so the bridge doesn't have to be bottomed out to get the action down to normal (2-2.5 mm). But if it works that low, then why not unless you want to play Freddie Green style.

    There's maybe more than plastic washer missing from the tuner, but it's a little hard to tell- IIRC there should be a plastic washer and 1 or 2 wavy metal washers. This is for adjusting the tension on the tuner key. Sometimes the plastic washer cracks and falls out. Are those tuners a Grover upgrade from stock?

    The high frets may discolor and oxidize a bit because they don't get used much. I've had that happen on all of my archtops, there those frets are used less than on a Tele or Strat. Cleans up easily.

    Otherwise you're describing normal use wear and it wouldn't bother me, if I liked how the guitar felt and sounded.

  7. #6

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    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6082-jpg
    the tuners appear to be stock. For some reason the black circular part on some of them jut out a bit. It’s especially apparent on the G string tuner.

    I forgot to mention theres electrical tape on the bridge pickup because there are no springs holding it in place. It was wobbling when I first got it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cunamara
    The action is very low, more so than most jazzers prefer, so the bridge doesn't have to be bottomed out to get the action down to normal (2-2.5 mm). But if it works that low, then why not unless you want to play Freddie Green style.

    There's maybe more than plastic washer missing from the tuner, but it's a little hard to tell- IIRC there should be a plastic washer and 1 or 2 wavy metal washers. This is for adjusting the tension on the tuner key. Sometimes the plastic washer cracks and falls out. Are those tuners a Grover upgrade from stock?

    The high frets may discolor and oxidize a bit because they don't get used much. I've had that happen on all of my archtops, there those frets are used less than on a Tele or Strat. Cleans up easily.

    Otherwise you're describing normal use wear and it wouldn't bother me, if I liked how the guitar felt and sounded.

  8. #7

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    OK, there are some maintenance issues. So far none of them sound particularly difficult to overcome.

    IME the stock tuners on most Ibanezes are fine.

    In regards to the neck angle, can you provide a photograph of the heel of the neck at the bass side and from the cutaway side? Is the finish around the heel cracked? Does the heel appear to be pulling away from the body of the guitar?

  9. #8

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    All these problems are minor, really.
    The missing washers on the tuners is very common, and easily fixed.
    The neck angle is fine, if you wish to have a bit more space between bridge/base, sanding the base is easy.
    The tape to stabilize a wobbly pickup is also very common. No big deal. I also had to do that on high end guitars. If you want, put some plastic tube on the pickup screws to tighten the springs.
    Fret level is a must on almost every guitar.
    My advice, bring the guitar to a luthier, list every thing that bothers you. He'll fix everything for almost nothing.
    Add a fret level, nut check if needed, it's 100% worth it.
    You'll get a killer guitar for almost nothing. The next level instrument would cost you 10 times the price.

  10. #9

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    Now im noticing rattling when i play certain chords. Im 99% sure it’s coming from the pickups. Likely the covers and mounting rings are vibrating when I hit certain notes. There’s a thread here where other people have encountered the same issue

    Pickup cover rattling

    the springs are entirely missing from the bridge pickup. I am considering getting tubing for both pickups to see if it’ll help with the rattling issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jx30510
    All these problems are minor, really.
    The missing washers on the tuners is very common, and easily fixed.
    The neck angle is fine, if you wish to have a bit more space between bridge/base, sanding the base is easy.
    The tape to stabilize a wobbly pickup is also very common. No big deal. I also had to do that on high end guitars. If you want, put some plastic tube on the pickup screws to tighten the springs.
    Fret level is a must on almost every guitar.
    My advice, bring the guitar to a luthier, list every thing that bothers you. He'll fix everything for almost nothing.
    Add a fret level, nut check if needed, it's 100% worth it.
    You'll get a killer guitar for almost nothing. The next level instrument would cost you 10 times the price.

  11. #10

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    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-broew-gif

  12. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by entresz
    The bridge looks pretty tall, there's heaps of material that could be taken off the bottom of the saddle if needed should you need to lower the action. I wouldn't be too concerned by that.
    I have noticed that on several guitars. Taking material off seems to be a standard thing to do for those wanting a low action. I have noticed some people will remove material above the thumbwheels rather than the entire bridge bottom. I suspect manufacturers prefer a setup where there is very little threaded post showing. I am thinking with more threaded post showing the threaded post may be more susceptible to bending.

  13. #12

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    It's an inexpensive used guitar, but Ibanez make good inexpensive guitars.

    Seems ok to me.

    Nothing that a bit of 'Tweaking' can't solve.

    We need to 'Tweak' our guitars to our liking.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrogsprit
    Now im noticing rattling when i play certain chords. Im 99% sure it’s coming from the pickups. Likely the covers and mounting rings are vibrating when I hit certain notes. There’s a thread here where other people have encountered the same issue.
    My Gibson ES-175 does the same thing, many people have noted their L5 archtops do too. So do solid body guitars but the acoustic resonance is so low that it's mostly inaudible. It's usually the pickup vibrating within the mounting ring. Some folks wedge in a thin guitar pick or something to stop it.

    It's been reported that using a rubber spring on their pickups reduces the rattling but may also affect tone, reducing the high end or "sparkle." Whether that is a benefit or a detriment depends on your tonal goals. That makes sense as rubber damps vibration much more effectively than a steel spring.

  15. #14

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    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6089-jpgKeep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-img_6090-jpg
    No issues with the finish around the heel. Maybe just some dirt and sloppy binding work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cunamara
    OK, there are some maintenance issues. So far none of them sound particularly difficult to overcome.

    IME the stock tuners on most Ibanezes are fine.

    In regards to the neck angle, can you provide a photograph of the heel of the neck at the bass side and from the cutaway side? Is the finish around the heel cracked? Does the heel appear to be pulling away from the body of the guitar?

  16. #15

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    Find an AF85

  17. #16

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    The wooden saddle is an aftermarket part-looks like a GEWA or somesuch-that is rather tall. You could take some off the bottom to give you more play but I prefer that the wooden saddle sit well and flush(ly) on the base so I would leave it alone.

    As for the pickups rattling in their surrounds stick a plectrum aka pick in the crevice for extra jazz guitarist street credibility points.

    It is a used guitar so green patina happens. You sound like you have a worry wart so you might want to disinfect the fretboard because who knows where the previous owner's fingers had been...

  18. #17

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    Just a moment...

    I’ll have to inspect the saddle more tomorrow. It does look a lot like the stock one when I compare it to stock photos.

    So far the electrical tape I’m using on the pickups is only working a little. It’s definitely the pickups rattling cause I can touch them while a chord is ringing out and it’ll stop.

    Fretboard seems clean. The guitar has a weird smell that makes me feel weird when I play it too long. I’m leaving it out of the case to let it air out. I think the previous owner had a cat or dog. I found a bunch of fur inside. Definitely need to clean inside the case.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
    The wooden saddle is an aftermarket part-looks like a GEWA or somesuch-that is rather tall. You could take some off the bottom to give you more play but I prefer that the wooden saddle sit well and flush(ly) on the base so I would leave it alone.

    As for the pickups rattling in their surrounds stick a plectrum aka pick in the crevice for extra jazz guitarist street credibility points.

    It is a used guitar so green patina happens. You sound like you have a worry wart so you might want to disinfect the fretboard because who knows where the previous owner's fingers had been...

  19. #18

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    Dont feel too bad. Ive spent a lot more on a guitar and had to do a zillion things to it.

    So many people, including shops, are just wanting to make a sale and do the least possible to sell a product in proper condition. I stopped worrying about it and just decided it was a project. Do what needs to be done to make it your own.

  20. #19

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    Another thing to consider - neck relief. It could be time for a truss rod adjustment, especially if the guitar has never had one. Changing environments can cause changes in the neck. The best way to tell is to capo it at the 1st fret. Press on the Low E at the 17th fret, and put a feeler gauge between the 8th fret and the Low E. Ideally the clearance should be .008". You don't want a perfectly straight neck. If the neck relief is off, it can contribute to the action being too high or too low.

  21. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzloverfat
    Keep or return uesd Ibanez AF95? Bottomed out bridge.-broew-gif
    wtf?

  22. #21

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    I’ll check with a notched straightedge in a bit. Did the 1st fret method a few days ago. Seemed straight with just a touch of relief.

    Quote Originally Posted by EllenGtrGrl
    Another thing to consider - neck relief. It could be time for a truss rod adjustment, especially if the guitar has never had one. Changing environments can cause changes in the neck. The best way to tell is to capo it at the 1st fret. Press on the Low E at the 17th fret, and put a feeler gauge between the 8th fret and the Low E. Ideally the clearance should be .008". You don't want a perfectly straight neck. If the neck relief is off, it can contribute to the action being too high or too low.

  23. #22

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    The posts on my Gretsch are slightly bent. I’ve also played several cheaper hollowbodies that had their bridges raised all the way up and still had poor action. One was a Washburn. Can’t remember the name of the others, but they were cheap guitars sold through Amazon in the 2000s and 2010s.

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielleOM
    I have noticed that on several guitars. Taking material off seems to be a standard thing to do for those wanting a low action. I have noticed some people will remove material above the thumbwheels rather than the entire bridge bottom. I suspect manufacturers prefer a setup where there is very little threaded post showing. I am thinking with more threaded post showing the threaded post may be more susceptible to bending.

  24. #23

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    OK, the neck joint looks fine. That's good news.

    I think your bridge top is just a little too tall. Now, if I remember correctly, you mentioned the action is at 1.5 mm; are you wanting it any lower than that? That's extremely low already. I set mine at 4/64" on all of my guitars, which I think is about 2 mm. That might even solve those couple of high fret areas. If you are not wanting to lower the saddle, I'd call it good and move on to playing it. If you do want to lower it, just sand a little bit off the bottom of the saddle and the bearing points so that the adjuster screws can be turned down a little more.

    If you like how it plays and you like how it sounds, that's what counts. I'd say that there is just some minor wear from my point of view. I'd replace the plastic washer on the tuner just so that the tuner works a little more easily. Everything else seems like normal wear and within usual expectations for a used instrument.

    I can't comment on the smell since we can't smell it over the Internet. Sitting out for a few days, vacuuming out the case, maybe deodorizing technique like putting a box of baking soda to absorb odors, etc., might help. I might put the case outside open in the sun to let natural UV rays get at it.

  25. #24

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    I agree with Cunamara. 1.5 is plenty low...or maybe a hair under that.

    IMHO anything lower really starts to impact tone on an archtop. Even if its primarly electrified.

    If you need less you can cut the underside of the saddle but if you still sruggle you need to go to a lighter string gauge.

    I worked hard to get below 1.5 and once I did I didnt care for the tone as much. On my guitars I find anything lower than about 1.30-1.4 starts to get a midrange sizzle and you sacrifce the thunky thumpy classic tone envelope. Roundness gives way to a sizzling brightness. It also results in a sound that is somewhat small.

    Its not a solid or semi solid body. The tone most of us are after results in the interaction of the strings, the top/body and the pickups. When you go too low you minimize the impact of the vibrating top and body cavity. So basically you discard a third of the reason you bought an archtop to begin with. My hands are old. I wish it were different but no amount of setup is going to equal what you can get with acoustic action. I bet money if sit and play the gutar through your amp while playing with the action and retuning you will find that there is a spot where things just seem to ring out and sound wonderful. It will likely be around 1.5 on the high notes and 2 on the low end. It gets better as you go up but there is a point of dimisishing returns. So find that break over point and go from there. The difference are there and each guitar is different. The impact on carved tops is dramatic but its still present on laminate tops. You dont win an contest for uber low action. The win comes from finding a good sound that inspires you to play.

  26. #25

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    Folks who only play solid body electric Rock guitars, with very low action (less than 1mm), are nearly always disappointed with the higher action of an archtop Jazz guitar. That's been my experience.