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  1. #1

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    Just got this '42 Epi, its a keeper. Plays great no issues action at 3/64 at the 12th no buzz with 12s. The frets are practically non existent and a refret is planned. Im wondering if it "needs" a reset and if you veterans can tell from my pics? Theres still a hair of adjustment left at the bridge my tech assures me it can be set up to my liking without a reset after a proper fretboard level/refret. They know me and even have a setup named after me so I trust their work. What they dont have is the combined experience of archtoppers like the guys on this forum, you all know who Im refering to...all of you! My other question is, if it was refretted would that effect a reset (like having to be redone) down the road if necessary ? pics attached, prolly have to stand on your head,lets seee
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images '42 Epiphone Reset?-rmm8ymvwxd7fwocnwkge-jpg '42 Epiphone Reset?-img-1254-jpg '42 Epiphone Reset?-img-1252-1-jpg 

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  3. #2

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    I would not get a reset on this guitar. I would already consider the action a little lower than I prefer on an acoustic guitar and it sounds like it can go even lower still. It anything new nut and frets will require the bridge to be a bit higher. It should be good as is for a long while yet.


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  4. #3

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    What is the string clearance from the top of the guitar to the bottom of the strings at the end of the fingerboard? The neck looks like it has a gap at the heal but cannot tell for sure. If it does that could come into play it the neck moves at all but I doubt it does. If it does not have an adjustable truss rod then refretting the neck involves some additional measurement and issues. Can easily be done but not like an adjustable truss rod guitar. Resetting the neck and refretting the guitar would be a major cost for sure. Not sure depending on the value I would jump to do it.

  5. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark
    What is the string clearance from the top of the guitar to the bottom of the strings at the end of the fingerboard? The neck looks like it has a gap at the heal but cannot tell for sure. If it does that could come into play it the neck moves at all but I doubt it does. If it does not have an adjustable truss rod then refretting the neck involves some additional measurement and issues. Can easily be done but not like an adjustable truss rod guitar. Resetting the neck and refretting the guitar would be a major cost for sure. Not sure depending on the value I would jump to do it.
    I would almost guarantee that the potential gap at the back of the heel is just shrinking of the celluloid cap. I see it all the time. There’s almost no way the action would be as low as it is if the neck was tilting forward.


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  6. #5
    Al Haig is offline Guest

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    You can literally see the seam separated and a crack where the heel meets the body. That means its integrity has been compromised since new. A luthier could re glue it and have it settle where it is without the need to completely reset the angle.
    Last edited by Al Haig; 03-19-2025 at 09:22 PM.

  7. #6

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    What is the bridge height? Has it been cut down? Those too are factors determining the need or desirability of a neck reset. I have worked on(and own) many vintage Epiphones, and IMO the tone and volume benefit from a bridge height of at least 3/4”, if not more.

  8. #7

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    There's shrinking of the heel cap and it's obviously popping off but there's a little seperation of the heel too.
    Not enough to compromise the integrity of the neck joint imo so I'd skip the reset especially if the bridge has room to go down and it's playable, but I'd keep an eye on it as there's a lot of tension there.
    The slight seperation seems to be more common in old Epiphone and Gretsch guitars than Gibson.

  9. #8

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    You had me at "plays great no issues".

    That's what I hope for after work is done.

    Seems like you're already there.

  10. #9

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    Thanks guys! exactly the info I was looking for. Its going in for the refret next week with the knowledge that a reset could be called for down the road but at this stage sound neck action etc. are very good just the frets are way to low and I know these guys will make it really sweet. I want to do NGD when its back from the spa, its a really cool old Epi and has captured me completely. Thanks for all the intel this place is great!

  11. #10

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    If it plays great then what's a reset going to improve for you?

  12. #11
    Al Haig is offline Guest

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    I would have him glue it and set it where it is. Like you said, the neck angle is already fine, it looks fine from the pictures. I would just have him glue it where it is because it would likely make the guitar more solid, it wouldn't have a dang crack in it. And it would be less likely for that issue to happen again if that's where it already moved to. I also recommend stainless steel frets because they never wear and remain pretty much the same through the life of the guitar. As opposed to nickel which will start to wear immediately and will just need to be torn out of the guitar again down the road which is a necessarily destructive process, or at the least have divots in them.

  13. #12

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    Not knowing much about old Epiphones, but thinking of vintage Martins, to me a neck reset is like a knee replacement- put it off as long as you can until it gets too uncomfortable to bear.

    Neck resets change the sound , in my experience, for a few years, and then it may or may not come back to where it was, though usually it does, if done well.

    If it plays good, leave it, I say. Until it doesn't.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Haig
    I would have him glue it and set it where it is. Like you said, the neck angle is already fine, it looks fine from the pictures. I would just have him glue it where it is because it would likely make the guitar more solid, it wouldn't have a dang crack in it. And it would be less likely for that issue to happen again if that's where it already moved to. I also recommend stainless steel frets because they never wear and remain pretty much the same through the life of the guitar. As opposed to nickel which will start to wear immediately and will just need to be torn out of the guitar again down the road which is a necessarily destructive process, or at the least have divots in them.
    There's no crack, just a slight seperation at the neck joint. Slathering some glue on an already glued piece of wood isn't a good idea, the old glue needs to be removed from the neck heel and rim and clamped for a good bond and that's not happening w the neck still attached. Steel frets also are known to make a guitar sound a little more bright/metallic than nickel.