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Originally Posted by richb2
A good classical has what can only be described as an amazingly fantastic rich full midrange. This midrange extends down to about the sixth or seventh fret on the low E string where a firm but not overpowering or booming bass kicks in, and it extends up to the same 6,7th fret on the high e string where the treble starts to distinguish itself again without overpowering the notes below. The first thing to test for is to simply play each open string with exactly even force and you will often find the g string puts out a little less volume than the others. Put this guitar right back on the rack and walk away. Strum some 6 note closely voiced chords at the bottom of the fretboard, very single note should be distinct and clearly heard simultaneously, it should not be just a wash of sound. This is extremely important. When you pluck a note, the guitar should respond instantly, listen for a delay for the note to "bloom" and again walk away if you don't get an instant response. Where you play with your right hand effects the timber you'll draw from the guitar, a really good classic will be very responsive to right hand placement, moving your hand just an inch will change the timber. On a poor guitar you will have to make large right hand position changes to evoke a change. It should also respond to minute changes of plucking force with changes in volume. As a broad and general rule, good spruce is more expensive than good cedar, so you can score a "better" cedar top at the same $ than spruce.
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08-06-2016 08:16 AM
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^ Absolutely agree.
Good reply.
By the way, those string tieblocks work very well.
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Originally Posted by richb2
Just wondering, did you ever get to Ochanomizu?
Next time I'm in Tokyo I intend to visit the area.
A really nice pickup in a cheap guitar
Yesterday, 09:11 PM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos